National Park Road Trip 2009

Saturday, April 4, 2009

Crossed the border from Mexico to Arizona.  Plan to cross southern Arizona and visit a couple of National Parks or Monuments that I missed first and second times through. 

Friends, Jim and Camilla Alexander, have a home and observatory in southern Arizona and I was hoping I might find them in town.  I made it for the night in Bisbee, an old mining town, now home to artists and bohemians, nearby to where Jim and Camilla live.  They turned out to be in Point Richmond at the time, but were able to describe where their observatory is located and give me tips on the local scenic drives.

Sunday,  April 5, 2009

Drove into town for a good old fashioned Hazlenut Cafe Latte at Bisbee Cofee Company.  I followed Jim’s advice and drove to Portal, Arizona.  Took an unpaved road and found the back entrance to Coronado National Forest.  Very beautiful.  On the way, I was able to glimpse the round domes of Jim’s telescope/observatory.  Lots of starwatching in this country.  Away from city lights. 

I was feeling almost teary about the natural beauty I was seeing all around me.  I’m really back on the Road Trip.  When I’m in Yelapa, I see the same beauty every day, and every day I’m thankful for being where I am.  On the road trip, there’s the added exhileration of the sense of freedom and escape.  How lovely to have both.

Passed through the town of Bowie on the way to Fort Bowie National Historic Site.  It’s a pecan, pistacio and grape growing district.  I bought a bottle of local chablis wine as well as some roasted and salted pecans.  Picked up raisis at the local grocery and have instant Trail Mix for my hikes!

Fort Bowie turns out to only be the ruins of a few walls, but to get to the site requires a 2 mile hike in.  Didn’t learn much about the history of the fort from the volunteers at the visitor center after all that effort.  Room for improvement there.

Next stop, Chiracahua National Park.  Made it to the campgrounds for the night.

Photos from this day:  April 5, 2009

Monday, April 6, 2009

Woke up early. Weather quite cool. Primitive campground, no electricity.  The visitor center at Chiracahua had a video, an exhibit and good advice.  The rock formations are  a little like Bryce Canyon.  Towering pedistals carved out by water, ice and wind.  The ranger sent me to the Echo Canyon hike where I walked down into the canyon and studied the formations from both above and below.  More than 3-miles long, the beauty of the hike made me not want it to end.  I also drove the 8-mile scenic drive. Lots and lots of photos.

There are no National sites in southern New Mexico that I missed, so I drove straight across to Las Cruces for the night. 

Photos from this day: April 6, 2009

Tuesday, April 7, 2009

Got an early start for my crossing into Texas.  Was afraid that I would arrive at the Chamizal visitor center before it opened.  But, I’d forgotten to change my clock to Mountain time, so arrived right on time.

At the end of the Mexican-American War, the Rio Grande River  was set as the international border.  Since the river bed is constantly moving and changing, they said that if the change was a slow one, the border would follow the river.  If the change was rapid, like a flood, it would not change, but remain the wame.  Over the next hundred years, the changes were so confusing that the actual border was totally unclear.  In some undeveloped areas, it was not crucial, but where the twin cities of El Paso and Juaez were built, the land was developed and privately owned, leaving a mess.  This border “dispute” was a bone of contention between US and Mexico for many years, until JFK, concerned about Castro’s appeal for Mexico, decided that it was time for us to make a gesture to Mexico, and offered to settle the border question in a generous manner.  Between the two cities, the river was confined within a concrete channel, and both countries donated land along the disputed area to be developed as a park and cultural center.  The visitor center had a video showing some of the activities they have over the year.  Lovely setting.  Big auditorium full of school children watching puppets showing them how to recycle their water bottles.

Hit the road east into Texas on hiway 10.  Stopped for gas somewhere in the middle of nowhere and was greeted by a state-trooper/fellow customer.  He was curious about my voyage and cautioned me to be careful.  Very sweet, called me ma’am.  As I paused before re-entering the hiway to study my maps, he approached and handed me his card.  He had written on it emergency phone numbers I could use as I move east across the state.  What a nice world.

The scenery changed a bit from open desert-like to hills with short oak-like trees and interesting rock formations exposed where the roads are cut through.  Not sure where to spend the night until I saw a sign for the Caverns of Sonora  RV Park and Campground.  No internet,  no cell phone reception.  I sat in my ratty folding chair, drinking a glass of white wine, facing the fields and pastures from under the sheltering oak trees.  Bird song in the background. Big smile on my face.

Photos from this day: April 7, 2009

Wednesday, April 8, 2009

Took the tour of the Caverns of Sonora.  Beautiful formations of every kind.  Only about 2 hours away from San Antonio and the National Historic Site:  the Missions of San Antonio.  Next visit.

The missions were built  in a string, not very far apart from each other.  Concepcion, San Jose, San Juan and Espada.  Because of raiders, they ended up building a walled community, lining the inside of the walls with the 2-room apartments for the “natives”.  Some of them are still intact and set upp with “furnishings” enough to imagine how they lived.  Some of the churches are still being used.  The ranger tour pointed out where original frescos are being discovered under layers of paint, and efforts are being made to repaint with the original colors.  They have linked the missions with a scenic drive and bicycle path 8 miles in length. 

Spoke with Renee from Yelapa who lives in Austin and planned to get together at 8pm after her last massage client.  Renee lives in a wonderful house in a wonderful setting.  It’s a double deep lot full of vegetables, flowers, pond, music stage, sitting areas, studio, etc.  She can live off her garden…even artichokes.  Her house is serene.

So out we went to a rib house, Art’s, to meet her friend, Steve, and listen to music.  Ate baby-back ribs, potato salad and cole slaw.  From there we hit a Honky Tonk called the Broken Spoke, where a Western band played and the dance floor was packed with Texas 2-steppers.  It turned out it was the University of Texas dance class.  My mouth was hanging open all nite.  Great South Austin experience!

Photos from this day: April 8, 2009

Thursday, April 9, 2009

Renee told me about a good boot store in Austin, Allen’s.  I was studying and admiring the women’s boots at the club last night.  I decided that if I was ever going to get a pair of cowboy boots, Austin was a great place to do it.  And I found the perfect pair:  Gringo brand, coveered with entwining pink roses!  Brown, crinkly leather, very low heel, side zipper.  I’m broke, but very happy.

I drove north to the Round Rock suburbs of Austin to  St. David’s Hospital to visit “Texas” Donn from Yelapa.  He immediately got out of bed, unhooked his IV from the wall, put on his slippers and said, “Let’s go”.  We wheeled his contraption into the elevator and headed for freedom.  We stopped at the cafeteria for a snack and then wandered out to check out my van and sit on the grass in the shade of the trees.  After awhile, he needed to return for his meds and we headed back.  He goes in for the cancer treatment April 26/27.  Fingers crossed.

Took the long scenic route to Kerrville and had to call Cindy to guide me into their ranch over the  cell phone.  I completely forgot the route from a year ago. 

Found her in the barn (Jim was on the golf course) and watched her close things up.  We drank wine in the gorgeous new kitchen until we got silly.  Cindy made a great impromptu meal and we decided to wait and go out for a meal at breakfast.

5 horses, 4 dogs, countless cats – all with their own names and personalities.    There are even 2 swans on the lake.  Mr. Darcy (Elizabeth died this year and he brought back a new wife) and Elizabeth II…or as Cindy calls her, QEII!  When I unpacked the van, I peeked out the window, and found I was surrounded by deer!

photos from this day: April 9, 2009

Friday, April 10, 2009

Helped Cindy feed the horses…well, I sat in the tiny tractor with her.  We had breakfast at a cowboy place, where all the workers start their day.  Eggs, bacon, biscuits and GRITS!  Turns out I like grits. They are like cream of wheat cereal, but made with corn. Who knew?

I wondered how far I could reach in one day, and made it all the way to Huntsville.  It’s wild flower season and today’s drive took me out of the dry region into a land of rolling expanses of grass–and flowers.  Carpets of blue, gold, pink, yellow, white.  Just beautiful.

Sam Houston State Park campgrounds had been sold out for Easter weekend for a month.  The National Park was also full.  So  for the first time, I spent the night in a Walmart’s parking lot.  Actually, it wasn’t bad.  They have a security car that drives around, and because it’s not a peaceful, silent place, I didn’t worry about the sound of my generator and was able to make microwave popcorn and sit up in bed with the lights on, reading my novel.

photos from this day: April 10, 2009

Saturday, April 11, 2009

After an early start, I drove through the Sam Houston Park and took the scenic drive to the Visitor Center at Big Thicket National Preserve.  Seems to be Lake country.  Very green, lots of horse ranches with long stretches of white wooden fences.

Seems all the churches are having Easter egg hunts on Saturday.  Passed lots of such scenes with dressed up children, parents holding the Easter baskets, grass dotted with colored eggs.

Homes are far apart from each other and don’t seem to be hidden behind fences here and lots of  back yards had ffamily barbecues in progress.

The Visitor Center had a film that explained the three different systems in the park.  A dry area that even supports cactus, a pine area in a savannah (a saucer shaped area where when it rains, all the nutrients filter down and out of the soil as well as the clay which then forms a lining that prevents good drainage.  So it’s either boggy or bone dry. Not good for growing much.  But, carnivoorous plants can make it because they have other sources of food.  The Pitcher Plant is in bloom and I took a couple of hikes where they grow.), and a third area that is like a swamp.  The Center’s video showed the ranger paddling a canoe through the trees all under water.  Didn’t see this area.

Continued the drive through the National Forests.  Sam Houston yesterday, Davy Crockett today.  There was rain in the afternoon.   Researched an RV park with wireless internet so that I could open up the next chapter of my blog and settled for the Northshore RV Resort on Lake Livingston.  $25 and there is laundry, hot showers, dishwashing sinks, pool, lake view, etc.  Just before I arrived, I made a sharp turn with brakes on and triggered a reaction with my anti-lock brake system.   Some guys at the park helped me find the fuse to pull and hopefully, when it’s put back, the system will reboot and be fine.  Otherwise, I’m in trouble….it’s Easter Sunday and nothing will be open.

Photos from this day:  April 11, 2009

Sunday, April 12, 2009

Happy Easter.  Rainy morning, but took a good hot shower and washed my hair.  Caught up on the blog, tried opening up new sections.  Will try to hook up the photos later.  Suddenly a huge thunder and lightning rain storm came up.  Put out my awning for shelter from the rain, made some breakfast and settled in on the computer.  Just as abruptly, the storm passed over in the afternoon and the sun came out quite brilliantly.  I’m hoping to get on my way and make a bit of driving progress before the day’s over.

When I started up the van, the same, anti-lock brake related whirring noise sounded.  Took the fuse back out,  looked up the number for the local Ford dealer to call in the morning and settled in for the night. 

No photos today.

Monday, April 13, 2009

Ford dealer said it shouldn’t hurt to drive without the fuse.  His shop was too small for my van height, so he couldn’t have lifted the van and checked it out anyway.

Headed for Jasper and the final two National Forests.  Angelina and Sabine. Crossed border into Louisiana at Logansport.

I liked east Texas.  Green grass, lakes, horses, wild flowers.

Roads were named after people – first and last names.  Just as I began to wonder if I’d ever see a road named after a woman — I passed “Mrs. Weeks Road”…Oh, well.

Took Louisiana Hiway 20 and drove straight across the state to Vicksburg, Mississippi.  The Visitor Center had just closed – lovely spot on the Mississippi River.

When I crossed the bridge, I said to myself — this is the Mississippi River!  My first view.

Just before I got out of Louisiana, I was hit by a powerful storm.  Brief but intense.

No photos today.

Tuesday, April 14, 2009

Made plans at the Visitor Center.  Took the scenic drive through old Vicksburg aand out to the National Military Park.  Bought the CD and followed it in my car.  I can imagine there are lots of reinactments on the grounds.

Took the hiway to Natchez. At their Visitor Center, got directions to the two National Historic sites which are old houses.  1) The William Johnson House. A Black man, ex-slave (but later slave-owner) prosperous barber, prolific diarist. 2) Melrose, a cotton kingdom estate in  near original condition including furnishings, on a huge piece of land.  Good tour.

Finally onto the “Trace”.  The roadway evolved from deer trail, to Indians, to settlers, etc. No commercial vehicles, no businesses, no billboards, etc.  Mile posts match itinerary on map.  Lots of history, nature, picnic, hiking stops.  Made it to Clinton for the night.

photos for this date:  April 14, 2009

Wednesday, April 15, 2009

Began with Clinton Visitor’s Center.  Learned that Eudora Welty Centennial is being celebrated right now.  Headed for her house in Jackson where I had birthday cake and lemonade (she would have chosen bourbon) while waiting for the tour to begin.  Lots of Mississippi accentss to listen to.  Great tour of house (no interior photos allowed) and sprawling gardens.

There was a local AP photographer filming the house who was interested in my van.  He had been literally watching Katrina when it struck.  Lots of interesting tales.

Hiway signs pointing to (sweet) Tupelo, Hattiesburg and Meridian.  Names familiar from civil rights days (and song).

Back on the Trace.  Wild turkeys have been wandering on the roadsides.

Stopped at the visitor center for the town where Oprah was born. Kosciusko.

Cypress Swamp – great walk through and around the swamp – towering cypress and tupelo plus tiny stubs of baby cypress.

Made it to Tupelo for the night.

Photos for this date:  April 15, 2009

Thursday, April 16, 2009

First stop: visitor center, Tupelo, on the Trace parkway.  Got directions to Elvis’ birthplace and the National Battlefield  Brices Crossroads.  They urged me to also see Shiloh (in nearby Tennessee) while I was in the area, but there are only so many battlefields I can take in a few days.

The Visitor Center itself was very interesting. A video narrated by a man with a slow drawl set the tone.  The history of the trace…used by thee Kaintuks who barged down the Mississippi with cargo (and sometimes horses), sold it at Natchez, dismantled the barge and sold the wood and then walked oar rode back up north.  It wasn’t until they developed the paddlewheel that they could make the return trip back up  the river current. 

So, on to Elvis. Tiny 2-room house, original Assembly of God church relocated and restored complete with a 3-screen reinactment video.  Museum and grounds with info at every turn.  Souvenir shop:  Elvis Monopoly and snow globe filled with glitter — I couldn’t resist!

Back kon the Trace.  Dogwood in bloom! Perfect month to be traveling this route.  My Mother always loved Dogwood and was always looking for it.  I don’t think it’s found much in California, but now I know why it was her favorite. 

Brice Crossroads. As expected.

Passed another big body of water.  Noticed again the flat bottomed boats with buuilt-in raised seats/chairs where people sit (or they stand) while fishing.

Back on the Trace to Alabama border and about 30 minutes to Tennessee.  short stretch in the state, but I drove it.

Headed for Florence/Muscle Shoals/tuscumbia and an RV park at the edge of a huge field of wild flowers. I’ve perched my canvas chair at the grassy stretch overlooking the field and with white wine in hand, catch up this journal.  Tomorrow, Tuscumbia, birthplace of Helen Keller.

Amazed to find high-speed internet available!  Also caught up the blog.

Photos today:  April 16, 2009

Friday, April 17, 2009

Followed the orders of my GPS through the tiny town of Tuscumbia and to the site of Helen Keller’s birth.  Crowded with visitors, but very nice staff kept things sorted out.  It was especially nice to see all the photos of her family and Teacher and Helen over the years.  I bought a small biography full of pictures – for bedtime reading.

Dropped by the town visitor center to verify my “scenic drive” through the state and took off for the road thru Bankhead Nat’l Forrest (Tallulaha’s Dad, I think). Stopped at riverside for a breakfast picnic.

Notice dotted throughout the countryside tons of private and group yard sales.  Is it a Friday tradition, sign of the economic times  or just what Alabama does with their extra stuff instead of Salvation Army/Goodwill? This is also an area where the yards havee no fences.  Great for me, driving by, to be able to see so much of people’s lives. I don’t think I’ve ever seen an amidillo alive….but there have been a dozen or so as “road kill” today.

After the “forest”, the route heads for Huntsville, Alabama, where I ran into my first “rush hour” traffic in a while.  Friday afternoon and the hiways still have the occasional traffic lights.  It didn’t last long and everybody was quite polite.  There seem to be no cell phone laws in Alabama.  At one point, I counted 5 out of 6 cars that passed me, busy talking.  One left-hander.

Made it to Scotsboro by 5:30pm. My RV park book mentioned nearl–by Goose Pond Colony–intriguing name.  It stretched out along the banks of what II would call a very long  lake, not a “pond”. But, indeed, there are Canadian Geese.

The place looks trashed, like they’ve been lumbering the trees–until I learn that last weekend’s storm plowed through here with hail as big as soft balls on Friday and a  small tornedo on Sunday.  And I can see across the water from my spot where the trees on the opposite bank are all broken off.   The trees must be 60 feet tall and there are fallen ones on either side of where I’ve parked my van.  The park has had a huge clean up this past week but much damage is still visible and the ground still torn up.

Photos for this day:  April 17, 2009

Saturday, April 18, 2009

Woke to a clear cool morning on the lake.  Plumped up my pillow to raise my head enough to look out and study this new day.  Canadian geese floating my way.  In pairs and with babies! One pair trailed by six babies.  I love being an early riser. The camp is still, just the sounds of chattering birds and one early morning fishing boat motoring around the bend.

As I look around me at the fallen trees, their root balls puffed right up  and sticking up above the ground, I think back to my drive yesterday and to all the communities where I saw three trimmings lining the streets.  I had thought it was the scheduled time of year to pick up yard debris…duh. I guess a lot of the state was affected by the storm.

Observations as I drive:  Shorty Robertson Road, Bob Jones Road and Ed Hembree Drive. “Mad Tatter” Tatoos. Chatanooga 56 miles. Most every front porch has a chair or two.  Often a woodeen rocker.  And usually there’s at least one person sitting in one of them.  Don’t know if it’s the climate, custom or what that makes the front porch used in this part of the world so much more than in the west.

I was just directed:  “You go past Walmart and turn right at Tacobell”  I want to know:  “Why do bass fishermen stand up in their boat to fish?” In Alabama, gas is pretty consistently $1.99 9/10 per gallon.  Wonder what it is in CA?   Church sign: “The key to heaven was hung on a nail.” Fyffe, Alabama.  Fort Payne identified itself as the “sock capital of the world”.

Made it to Little River Canyon National Preserve and completed the scenic drive before bedding down for the night at De Soto State Park. 

Photos from this day:  April 18, 2009

Sunday, April 19, 2009

Rained in the night.  Stopped off at the Little River Falls – very full.

Today’s church quote: ” Be ye fishers of men:  you catch ‘em, he’ll clean ‘em”

Light rain on and off all day.  No wonder it’s so green here.

Drove the Lookout Mountain scenic drive as well as through the Talledega National Forest.   Completed the drive at Cheaha State Park.  Visited the Horseshoe Bend National Military Park.  It was the last stand of the Creek Indians when the Red Stick band was defeated.  Another sad tale of  the US quest for land/breaking treaties/finding excuses to drive  the natives out of their lands.

Didn’t want to miss the area of Eufalia, Alabama (I’d heard it was beautiful), so drove all the way down there for the night.  Stayed in the Deer Court section of Lakepoint Resort State Park.  And, indeed, there were tons of deer frolicking around at dusk.  Sat with my glass of wine and enjoyed the show.

Photos from this day:  April 19, 2009

Monday, April 20, 2009

It rained in the night, leaving a bright blue sky morning. 

Today’s church quote:  “Turn or Burn”

Headed back north to Tuskegee for two Historic sites: Tuskegee Institute where Booker T. Washington set up the all Black educational institution to teach practical skills and where George Washington Carver taught and developed his theories on peanuts, and also, the Tuskegee Airmen Historic Site where black airmen were trained during World War II.

Then on to the Selma/Montgomery historic route and the voter registration march.  Visited the site of the AME church where the march was begun and crossed the bridge where Bloody Sunday occurred.  Moving.

Finished the historic route 80 going west back to Meridian, Mississippi, poised for the drive south tomorrow to the National Seashore/Gulf Coast of Mississippi/Alabama/Florida.  I’ll be seeing lots of Katrina devistation and recovery.  My RV Park hosts had lots of stories to tell of running extension cords and water hoses out of every corner of the park in order to accomodate all the refugees from Katrina.  (Now the park is full of oil pipeline workers)  They told me that I will see stretches of empty land which used to be full of antebellum houses.  One spot where a home was lost, the owner now camps out in one of the “temporary” trailer homes, in no hurry to rebuild.  They also told me that an artist has come repeatedly to turn the shredded trees into sculptures.  I’ll see if I can find them.

Photos from this day: April 20, 2009

Tuesday, April 21, 2009

Began the Gulf Islands, National Seashore trip with Mississippi.  Only 32 miles from New Orleans (next year’s destination).  Lots of Hurricane damage.  Found the carvings of sea birds and fish on the dead trees along the roadway center strip. 

Photos from April 21, 2009:  April 21, 2009

 Wednesday, April 22, 2009

Took the Dauphin Island ferry to Fort Morgan and the Gulf Shores.  Less hurricane damage on Dauphin.  Met nice Texas birding couple on the ferry.  They keep the records of the birds they see right in their bird book.  Good idea.

Brief stop at Bon Secour National wildlife Refuge in Alabama, and then “hello, Florida”.  First stop, Fort Barrancas Visitor Center at the Gulf Islands National Seashore.  Located within the Pensacola Naval Air Station, it was originally a Spanish Fort to protect their colony from attack by sea.  The French then briefly occupied the site and in 1763 the British built their own fort there.  The Spanish recaptured it during the American Revolutiion in 1781, but Andrew Jackson seized the Spanish forts in 1814-1818 and Florida became part of the US in 1821.  Much of Florida was under many flags and their culture, names and history reflect this history.  The forts even played their parts in the civil war and even into World War II.  Both the Spanish and the English fort structures survive – complete with moat the draw bridge.

To see photos from this day, click on: April 22, 2009

Thursday, April 23, 2009

 Happy Birthday to me!  It’s the first time I can remember that I didn’t spend my birthday with family and friends.  I thought I would treat it just like any other day on the road trip, continuing my schedule of National sitess–and I did up to a point–but as the day passed (I received an early morning e-mail from Doug Hill, a precious phone call from Patti in Yelapa, and an el-mail greeting from brother, Chris …and, of course, Peter Mitchell had sent the usual irreverent e-mail card on his birthday a couple days earlier!), I got more and more sentimental and decided to take myself out to dinner…and decided that my new cowboy boots would be officially a birthday present!

I did visit De Soto National Monument – a location near where the Spanish explorer based his North American exploration.

I needed to get as far south on the Gulf coast as I could since my next stop will be The Everglades in South Florida.

I read my Lonely Planet guidebook and picked the beach town of Fort Myers which has a waterfront restaurant they raved about.  It took longer then I thought to get there (lovely town and delightful restaurant) annd after dinner it was too late to find an RV park, so I spent my first night in a Walmart parking lot.  I’d heard that they welcome RV’s to park overnight, but never tried it.  The lot is huge – like 1 1/2 football fields and there was a woman in a “security” car driving around.  So, I asked her if it was OK and where she preferred I park.  She said anywhere I wanted, but that usually people parked over to one side.  Sure enough, there were already a couple of “rigs” there.  I joined in.  I was worried about how using my lights and fan would affect my battery, so I was frugal and everything was fine.

To see photos from this day, click: April 23, 2009

Friday, April 24, 2009

Made my coffee and took a sponge bath in the van before leaving the parking lot.

Arrived at Big Cypress National Park at the edge of the Everglades and saw my first alligators in the wild.  Peter Mitchell warned me that they were not “cuddly”, so I kept my distance.  decided that for cuteness, I wanted to see a manatee.

Because it is now the dry season, there is hardly any water and the “swamps” are just grassy prairies.  I started wishing I were here in the wet season, for better sightseeing, until I learned that the bugs at that time of year are unbearable!  The small amount of water that was left was crowded with fish which attract the rest of the wildlife.  So, it was easy to know where to look.  The old Cypress trees were picturesque, and the Park video had shown a ranger wading thru them in water up to his waist…  so, I used my imagination as I strolled. I saw bromiliads, orchids, endangered Wood Storks and an Anhinga bird swallowing its dinner along the back country road.

On to the nearby Everglades.  I’m allowing at least 2 days to cover this huge Park.  More alligators, a couple turtles, but – no manatees. Crowds of alligators, wherever there was water. Tkhey have even learned to go out in the marsh and pound their tails until they make an indentation in the ground and then that becomes the last place that holds water.  You can spot these areas because they also support trees and  other growth in a ring around the water hold.  How clever.

First stop was the tram ride through Shark Valley (neither sharks nor a valley there). When the water dries up, the fish die and vultures clean-up.  It was educational ride, but not much to see. 

Spent the night in Florida City camp grounds…pretty depressing.

To see photos of this day, please click: April 24, 2009

Saturday, April 25, 2009

Arrived at the Flamingo Visitor Center early enough to catch the morrning boat into the mangroves and the inland waterways.  The air roots of the mangroves go into the brackish water, filter out the salt and thrive.  The seeds of the Mangrove can float around for a long time before taking root, but when they ddo, they create a floating island and then eventually it becomes an actual “key”.  Hence the “Florida Keys”.

Saw one alligator, a couple of fishermen, lots of mangroves.  The ranger suggested a couple of hikes, one with a rookery of baby Wood Storks!  Headed for the Royal Palm Visitor Center and hiked their Anhinga Trail.  Alligators and turtles and birds!

Made it back to Flamingo in time for the sunset cruise out into the Bay.  I shared the trip with a nice couple from Switzerland and crusty old Captain Bob and young Justin, his crewman.  It was delightful.  We watched the sunset on East Cape Sable, the southern most point of the mainland of the continental US.

Camped for the night at Flamingo campgrounds, on the edge of the bay.

To see photos from this day, please click: April 25, 2009

Sunday, April 26, 2009

A cool shower at the campground, iced coffee in the van and off to Biscayne National Park.  The Bay is on the Atlantic side of the Florida Keys.  Very shallow water. Saved from development in a very controversial fight in very recent years.

Because of the wind, the water is churned up and neither snorkling or glass bottomed boat trips are happening. I would have enjoyed seeing coral and colorful fish – or maybe a manatee, but no.

So, I settled for a boat ride out to an island with a light house. Once the playground of the rich and famous — and now, actually, still is. There were yachts anchored blaring salsa music as our ranger tried unsucessfully to bring history alive.  And there was the water, never more than seven feet deep, bottom lined with sea grass — but no manatees.

When the boat anchored back at the park, I hopped in the van and drovee straight out to Key West.  I planned to either boat or fly out to Dry Turtugas National Park in the early morning.  But, when I arrived and found the only campground in town, I was told it would be $90 for the night.  That was just wrong!  I hadn’t looked forward to paying $120 for the Dry Turtuga flight or spending another whole day on a boat trip, so I “up and left”.  Drove back to the mainland, pulled into the Walmart at Homestead, cranked up the generator, made microwave popcorn, and slept well with no regrets. Well, other than the stupid long drives…

For photos from this day, please click on: April 26, 2009

Monday, April 27, 2009

Drove up the Atlantic side of Florida by way off Lake Okeechobee. Now this is the lake that is at the heart of the whole water dispute in Florida.  It is a  huge lake and its water is supposed to feed the aquafer that would store all the water for southern Florida.  But the developers found it to be too wet and swampy and so in order to develop Miami, etc., they built canals to detour billions of gallons of fresh water each day out into the ocean.  So, Southern Florida doesn’t have enough water and the everglades and mangroves, birds, fish, alligators are all endangered.  that’s the story and I saw the lake. and it really is huge.

I cut over to the coastal highway A1A at Vero Beach, a gorgeous very well-planned community.  I missed the Canaveral Visitor Center and got to the Kennedy Space Center at closing,. But didn’t care enough to stay over.

Instead, I made it all the way to St. Augustine and spent the night at Annastasia Island State park.

To see photos from this day, please click on: APRIL 27, 2009

Tuesday, April 28, 2009

Woke up in Anastasia State Park.  Had iced coffee and a fruit smoothie with banana, strawberries and pineapple, from Florida. Dressed in a bathing suit under a dress and walked the beach, stepped in the Atlantic Ocean (dangerous rip tide- no swimming), drove to Fort Matansas.  Walked the Nature Trail and ran into a man on his cell phone.  Oh, dear.

Matansas is Spanish for massacre…which is what happened to the French from Ft. Caroline who tried to attack the Spanish here.

Drove the scenic route back up to St. Augustine and Castillo de San Marcos.  St. Augustine seems like a nice place.  Older buildings, a sense of history.  Bay setting. Lots of tourist ammenities, like horse drawn carriages.

Then the ruins/reconstruction site of Fort Caroline which are part of the Timucuan Preserve, named after the native people who once lived in this area.  They were quite helpful to the French when they settled in the area.  They were 6 1/2-7 feet tall, healthy and gorgeous.  They were almost completely wiped out by European diseases and the remainder finally left with the Spanish when the British drove them out of Florida. Also visited the Kingsley Plantation, a cotton plantation only accessiblee by water until the ’20′s and run by slaves owned by an African woman (ex-slave married to a white man). Under the Spanish she had no problem being the owner, but after US took over, free-blacks were oppressed, with limitations on legal rights to the point that the family moved to Haiti which was run by free blacks.  Final scenic drive north to the Georgia border.  Exit #1, visitor center closed, RV park nearby.  Small lake, birds, sat with salad and a glass of wine.  Laundry.  Internet.

To see photos of this day, please click: April 28, 2009

Wednesday, April 29, 2009

Did some household chores and reviewed my plans for Georgia at the visitor center.  Headed for the ferry to Cumberland Island National Seashore.  The visitor center is at Historic St. Mary’s, then a 45 minute ride across the river to the barrier island.

The ruins of the old Carnegie mansion – raised 9 children here in a totally self-sufficient life (staff of 300).

Hiked, sat on the beach, ate a picnic lunch, sat in a rocker on the visitor center front porch while I waited for the return ferry.

Drove to Fort Fredrika, ruins are all that’s left. 

Drove the scenic highway to Savannah.  The van started shimmying at top speed – need to check it out.

Pulled into a state park.  81 degrees at 6pm. Found a wooded spot.  Planned tomorrow’s route and charted all the state parks that I’ll find on my way.

For photos from this day, please press: April 29, 2009

Thursday, April 30, 2009

There was a wifi hot zone at the ranger’s office, so I looked up wheel alignment shops in Savannah.  They said the tires were shot and wearing unevenly.  Can’t wait for my May 20th tune-up.  Went to Goodyear and got tires and then to a commercial place to install them.  Lost most of the day.

Visited Fort Pulaski on the outskirts of Savannah before driving towards my next stop.  Drove late into the night and stopped off at Walmart’s in Macon, Georgia. 

To see photos from this day, please click on: April 30, 2009

 Friday, May 1, 2009

Ocmulgee National Monument:  The Mississipians established a community on this site between 900 and 1200.  They created earthworks/mounds for ceremonies/burials/building foundations (somewhat like the Mayans). They were pretty much wiped out by European diseases with the arrival of DeSoto’s expeditions. All that’s left are the mounds, one burial and an earth lodge.

Andersonville: More than 45,000 Union prisoners spent their captivity here in 1864 and 1865.  12,920 prisoners died here as the numbers of inmates became impossible for the Confederate management to feed and house. Also on the site is the National Prisoner of War Museum paying tribute to POWs from the Revolution War up to Iraq.

Jimmy Carter National Historic Site: Plains High School serves as the visitor center and has a good video of his life and career.  There are lots of photos of him and Rosalyn growing up here. President Carter actually still teaches Sunday school here when he is in town.  In town, I stopped off at a peanut store and had peanut icecream and tried the hot boiled peanuts, too.

In the countryside, there was pecan orchards on one side  of the road, peaches on the other, and then there would be a grove of Pine.

Spent the night at the campground of FDRoosevelt State Park near Warm Springs, the area where FDR went for his therapy and treatment for his polio and had what they called the “Summer White House”. Scenic.

 To see photos from this day, please click on: May 1, 2009 

Saturday, May 2, 2009

Martin  Luther King, Jr. National Historic Site: This is Sweet Auburn, the African-American neighborhood where MLK was born and lived until he was 12 years old.  His sister has dictated the decorating of their original home. This is also the site of the Ebanezer Baptist Church where is Grandfather and Father preached before him.  When his attention was needed in the Civil Rights movement, he became co-pastor with his Father of the church, giving him more time to devote to the cause. This is also where both he and Coretta are entombed. The Center has some wonderful exhibits illustrated with videos.  As I was viewing one, I bumped into a Realtor friend from Berkeley, in the area on an Elder Hostel trip.  Small world.

Kennesaw Military Park: The Confederates held off Sherman for some time at this site, hoping to prevent the taking of Atlanta.  But eventually the Union succeeded.

Spent the night in the James “Sloppy” Floyd State Park

To see photos from this day, please click on: May 2, 2009

Sunday, May 3, 2009

Chickamauga and Chattanooga National Military Park:  I visited the Chickamauga (Georgia) site today. Here the Confederates did prevent a Union advance, although 34,000 men became casualties.  Good video.

Drove through the Chattahoochee National Forest. Very mountainous. Drove through the rain, playing Vivaldi on the radio.  Times like these, Sirius radio is a life-saver.

The whole northwestern part of Georgia is very scenic.  Many of the best spots are taken by State Parks, so I’m catching those sights in my overnight stays in State Parks.  Tonight I stayed in Mocassin State Park.

To see photos from this day, please click on: May 3, 2009

Monday, May 4, 2009

Another rainy day. Came down out of the mountains by way of the town of Helen.  I wasn’t expecting a Swiss/German recreation.  Heidi Hotel, etc.  I stopped for a caffe latte and a Funnel Cake…decadent. Did not stop in other towns for either the Laurel and Hardy Museum or the Uncle Remus Museum. Noticed a sign advertising, “Rent a Red-neck”.

Augusta Canal National Heritage Area: The only southern industrial canal that’s still intact and in continuous use…except they just drained it and they won’t be taking boats out on it for tours until Friday.  So, off I go.

Drove across the border to South Carolina.  Just missed the visitor center, but luckily they kept a supply of maps outside the door. Found a notation for Hickory Knob State Park on the way to my first destination tomorrow and arrived just before sunset to find a golfing resort!  There were campgrounds, too, but  what an elegant place!  Still cost me only $23 and I had a lovely place on a lake to sit with my glass of wine. And I was almost alone in the park.

To see photos from this day, please click on: May 4, 2009

Tuesday, May 5, 2009

Drove the Savannah River Scenic Highway, but had to take a side road to get a glimpse of the river. It’s big.  Spotted a Realtor sign for “Bubba Harvis, REMax”

Ninety Six National Historic Site:  So named for being 96 miles from the Cherokee trading village of Keowee. Fort was the site of the first Revolutionary War battle south of New England.  Later they had the longest seige (outside of a city) of the Revolution. Nice battlefield walk through some reconstructions. Traces of the original traders foot path remain.

I should have taken more photos of houses I passed by, but often it’s impossible to stop on the roadway.  Caught one nice brick one.

Spent the night in an RV Park in Spartanburg.

To see photos from this day, please click on: May 5, 2009

Wednesday, May 6

Visited Cowpens National Battlefield and the Congaree National Park, a swamp-like forest terrain.  Lots of walking trails and waterways, but no driving routes.  Could have spent days exploring, but there were no campgrounds for me to stay in.
Took the scenic drive north to visit the Kings Mountain National Military Park.  Had to actually drive into North Carolina to find the road back down to reach it.
This is the location of the battle where the local American militia, the Overmountain men, first joined in a Revolutionary War battle and where Cornwallis lost his left wing and was forced to retreat south. It was also the last battle where the Scottish royalists charged only with their broad swords.
While I was there, I heard that there had been a tornado tear through Ninety Six (where I was yesterday!) Yikes, it’s tornado season right where I’m traveling!
Made it to Givhan’s Ferry State Park in Ridgeville for the night.

To see photos from this day, please click on: May 6, 2009

Thursday, May 7

Drove to view Fort Sumpter, where the Civil War began.  Noticing the beginning of blooming Magnolias!  As I drove, I thought I was seeing “road kill” but it was a stretch littered with shredded automobile tire blowouts.  I began to think that what someone should invent would be a use for recycled tire rubber.  They’d make a fortune and the world would be a lot cleaner.
Headed for the Charles Pinckney National Historic Site. 
Mosquitoes at my camp site.  I had heard that dryer sheets are good for keeping away mosquitoes, so here I am with dryer sheets tucked under my shoulder straps, tied around my ankles, and rubbed all over exposed parts of my skin.  Actually seems to help.

To see photos from this day, please click on: May 7, 2009

Friday, May 8

Visited yet another military site at Moore’s Creek.  Amazing co-incidence, but they had a walking path that was made of recycled rubber tires.  I’m thrilled.
Headed for Cape Lookout National Seashore, and arrived on Harker’s Island, but was too late to catch the last ferry out to the lighthouse.  Took a nice nature walk and saw Herons and Ibis nesting.  The only RV Park now only takes seasonal guests, no more overnighters.  One man has set up electrical outlets in the middle of his field.  That’s where I spent the night.  Morning sponge bath in the van.

To see photos from this day, please click on: May 8, 2009

Saturday, May 9

Really windy this morning.  The Ferry to Cape Lookout was cancelled.  Grrr.
Drove quickly to Cedar Island where I had an afternoon appointment on their ferry out to Ocracoke where there is another light house.  Got on the waiting list for the morning ferry and just made it on.  Lovely 2.5 hour trip.
Next was the free 40 minute ferry to Cape hatteras and a third lighthouse.  On the ferry boat, there was a man who was using crutches to get around. I got to talking with his wife and found out that he had been in an accident on his bicycle and was a quadriplegic.  They had planned on traveling like I am, but the accident changed everything. 
The final light house at Bodie Island Light Station.
Spent the night at a lovely RV park called the Refuge at Roanoke Island.  Did laundry.  Got to talking with the woman who manages the place and she said that she had also planned on spending retirement traveling until her husband had a stroke and his ill health limited their mobility.  Both the stories make me thankful that I’m doing this trip while I have  my health.  I’m very lucky.

To see photos from this day, please click on:  May 9, 2009

Sunday, May 10

How nice to finally be all dried out with clean clothes, fresh sheets on the bed, hair freshly shampooed, van swept out, counters cleaned and a warm sunshine-y day to drive in.
First stop right here on Roanoke Island at Fort Raleigh National Historic Site — the mystery of the Lost Colony and the birth place of the first English child in America, Vierginia Dare.  In the summer thre is a regular reinactment nightly at the outdoor theater nearby.
Next the Wright Brothers National Memorial.  You can see why they choose this area to fly — the winds are terrific.  On the beaches I passed were huge kites being flown and signs for hang gliding lessons.  I guess in this wind they can take off from atop a sand dune!  Very good and comprehensive film about the brothers at the site.  They really made a lot of discoveries and were brilliant scientists who devoted their lives to this project.
Next stop Greenboro, way on the western side of the state.  As I leave the outerbanks, near Stumpy Point, N.C., I notice a sign saying, “Unlawful to feed bears along highway”??? Then later a sign:  Welcome to Martin, Stock Car Racing Capital of Eastern North Carolina.
Long drive to Greensboro.

To see photos from this day, please click on: May 10, 2009

Monday, May 11

At the RV Park this morning, met Lynn, the owner of a very big cat and a cockatoo named, Peaches.  She introduced me to the resident cats at the park. Their pregnant mother was abandoned there and they have been fed, tamed, fixed and kept healthy by a series of park guests. Her boyfriend is in aerodynamics and they recently relocated from Pennsylvania.  Rather than buying a home, they decided to buy a motorhome to live in until they were sure the job was going to last.  It turns out he has been offered a job in Seattle, so they will be able to drive their “home” there.  Another new way that motor homes are being used.
First stop Guilford Court House, a Revolutionary War site where Cornwallis’ British troops won the battle but lost almost a quarter of their men doing it.  It wass the battle that turned the tide of Britain’s support for this war, far away from home.  They have both a reinactment video and one that diagrams the troop placements throughout the battle.  How embarassing for the descendents to hear that the local militia instead of firing their 3 shots and then retreating, fired once, panicked and fled the field.
Then I headed for the northwest corner of the state and crossed intoo a bit of Virginia to catch the northern most end of the North Carolina section of the Blueridge parkway.  On the way, I passed Pilot Mountain, suddenly jutting up into the sky.  The name Mt. Airy sounded familiar and then I found I was on Andy Griffith Parkway.  Mayberry was based on this town!  They have both an Aunt Bee’s Restaurant and a Mayberry Motel.
Fog and drizzle is not the optimum way to travel this route full of “scenic outlooks” every few miles.  Couldn’t see but a few feet ahead of me on the road at some points.
But, there was dogwood, which now always makes me smile.  After a couple of road closures and detours (I’m wondering if it was due to the fog), I realized that I wasn’t going to reach any of the Visitor’s Centers before 5pm closing time, so I decided to pull of the Parkway at Blowing Rock where I found Buffalo Camp RV Park.  It’s all hilly and windy, up and down terrain, with lots of large trailers permanently nestled in nooks and crannies–but, as best I can tell, all empty.  I think I’m the only soul in the place–guess it’s still too early in the season–or maybe they only come on weekends.
It’s really cold tonight.  Wearing socks to bed and only one window barely cracked.  Brrr.  Thank goodness for the comforter.  I’m cosy and warm in bed.

To see photos from this day, please click on: May 11, 2009

 May 12, 2009

As I drove out of the campground, I looked for the garbage cans. and finally thought I had spotted one by the office,  where a woman was tending a garden.  I greeted her and dropped off my garbage bag.  As I turned to leave, I suddenly realized that this was not the office, but a residence…oops.  Turned out to be Harriet Fulton, a very friendly local artist, who invited me in and with whom I had a lovely visit before I finally drove off. When I dropped my garbage in her can, she guessed that I must think it was for the public and got a kick out of it.   She had made quite a homey set up there in the woods and her walls were full of her paintings.  I never know what interesting person I will next cross paths with. 

So, back to the Blue Ridge Parkway and the Sun is Out! Stopped at the historic Cone Manor House, perched on a hillside with incredible views.  Saw the Linn Cove Viaduct.  Great film at the Destination Center. Took a side trip to the Carl Sanborn Home Historic Site.  It was left just as it was when he died, modestly furnished, full of zillions of his books and still populated with descendents of the goats his wife raised. Unfortunately, as I backed out of my parking place, the car directly behind me had begun the same thing a couple of minutes earlier and I hit her back side panel.  It was barely a touch, but  quite a dent resulted.  First van misshap, but quite depressing.

Found a campground on the Cherokee reservation, just outside the Parkway.

To see photos from this day, please click on: May 12, 2009

May 13, 2009

The Blueridge Parkway leads into the Smokey Mountain National Park.  Took a hike way up to a mountain top, but the view was mostly of trees that are being destroyed by the beetles in this area.  Most campgrounds I go to have signs posted about not bringing in outside firewood.  They are having serious problems with infestations.

The roadways are lined with rhododendren bushes full of buds, but not blooming yet.  At the south end of the park lies Cades Cove, where there once was a settlement before the Park took over ownership of the land, and where now, the black bears roam.  Saw lots of deer and 7 bears!  At a distance,  but still thrilling.

Made it to Townsend, Tennessee and Mountaineer Campground for the night.

To see photos from this day, please click on:  May 13, 2009

May 14, 2009

Back to the land of the quotable church marquees: Exposure to the Son will prevent burning;  Life is fragile, handle with prayer; Forecast: God reigns, his Son shines. 

Passed through Pigeon Forge.  Saw 4 pancake houses in one block, , multiple miniature golf sites, roller coasters.  I wondered what on earth was going on…and then I saw the huge sign:  Dollywood!  My goodness.

Beautiful countryside along  hiway 321. Stopped at Carver’s Apple House for a single serving ”fried apple pie” and a home-made woven basket.

Couldn’t resist taking a quick photo of a group of “good old boys” standing on the sidewalk out in front of  a store.

Here the Peonies and Dogwood grow like wild flowers. Clumps along roadsides, edging trees or driveways.  Iris are also blooming.  All my favorite flowers!

Stopped at the Andrew Johnson Natl Historic Site.  He was President after Lincoln was assassinated.  Good film.

Noticed a barn with a patchwork quilty piece painted on it.  I’ve seen them before.  Some kind of web site, didn’t catch the full address.

To see photos from this day, please click on:  May 14, 2009

May 15, 2009

 

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India 2009

I flew from San  Francisco to NYC arriving late in the evening with my flight to India scheduled for the next afternoon.  That gave me enough time to spend the morning in Manhattan, visiting Peter Mitchell at his SoHo co-op apartment.  What fun to see his new stomping ground. 

The flight, the next day, was Long…enough time to eat a few meals and watch every single English language movie, documentary and TV show!  Arrived at night in New Delhi, Nina met us with a driver and we headed for our World Class hotel for the night.  The next day, we toured the sights of Delhi including the home and memorial to Indira Ghandi.  I especially enjoyed the amazing sights in the Old Market.  So many colorful costumes, the different modes of transportation, the artistic arrangements of the wares for sale.  The following morning we boarded the train to the state of Gudjarof. 

We stopped at the ashram of Ghandi and saw the room he lived in and his spinning wheel.  We spent the night at a Mararaja’s palace that has become a Bed and Breakfast.  His amazing treasures are on display in the common rooms as well as his garages of classic cars.  Most of them date back to before independence, when the mararajas had great wealth.  We also visited his Great Palace which is now a bit neglected, but still quite grand.  More colorful markets and this area has the cows wandering through town at will.   The Budj area is renowned for its textiles.  We visited ancient sites as well as artisans of weaving, embroidering, tie dying, block printing, applique, batiking, etc. We headed for the back country and stayed at an “eco lodge”, owned by the community and built to imitate their own mud housing.  We toured the small villages in the countryside and bought directly from the “people”. The children were wearing the old style of colorful clothing and loved posing for our photos.  Before returning to Budj, we stopped near the Pakastani border at a temple where after devotions, the community leave leftover offerings out to a platform where the food is eaten by the wolves. ( Made me curious as to how the custom evolved.) Not only did we visit textile workers, but those who work with metals and printing. 

We visited many markets and government stores with the opportunity to purchase various sarongs, shawls, saris, etc.  We also headed for the sea coast of Kutch to visit the Palace at Mandavi.  I was discouraged by the air quality in India, mostly for the lack of visibility and the dulling of colors.  At Mandavi, we could barely see the sea until we were upon it.  People in India are incredibly friendly.  When we toured the Palace at Mandavi, there were a group of Indian women just leaving.  When they saw my cameras, they all offered to pose for me.  I loved the photos of their colorful clothing.  Almost all women in India wear the traditional dress:  saris and the outfits with pants (I forget what they’re called), but the men are moving towards the more western style clothing.  Hope that the women don’t follow suit.

We began the return to Delhi through Rajastan.  We visited a fort where we arrived perched on top of elephants!  At this place, I finally saw a man playing a pipe as a snake danced up out of a basket!  We visited a palace where there were 4 very decorative doorways, one for each season.  The tile work and mosaics with precious and semi-precious stones were gorgeous.  We also visited the women’s quarters of the moslem palaces.  The women could not be seen by the public and elaborate screen work was built for them to live behind and yet not be kept from seeing out.  One building was built along the main parade route and was only one room deep, but 4 or 5 stories tall.  All with carved mesh work for the Queens and their attendants  to sit behind.  Nearby was the King’s astronical observatory.  It mingled astrology with astronomy and was both scientific and beautiful.

We paused for a day of pampering at an Ayurvetic spa.  I had a face mask and when it was peeled off, it was like looking at my own face!  We also saw an Indian film in an old Art Deco-style theater.  It was in Hindi and a bit hard to follow, but the dance numbers were terrific.

We spent the night a few hours away from the Taj Majhal where there was a lesser known complex.  This is where we  learned of Isabel’s death.  The next day we gathered flowers from the grounds of the little hotel and took them with us.  We spent the day at the Taj Mahal and afterwards, sent off the floral tribute sailing down the river behind the Taj Mahal which eventually flows into the Ganges. 

The Taj Mahal is amazing.  I took lots of photos to try to capture its awesomeness, but it just doesn’t.

When driving in India (being a passenger, not a driver, of course) I began to notice the patterns.  Drivers tend to ignore the traffic lanes, simply driving wherever they fit (or think they fit).  When they want to pass another driver, they simply honk their horn and the vehicle in front is to move over to the left.  In fact, the trucks  have written on the back (in very ornate lettering) “honk please”  and “use dipper” (at night, they dim their lights as the signal).  In general, the trucks are decorated with colorful designs and I found myself taking photos of Trucks and  for their costuming!

The tour ended back in New Delhi at yet another 4-star hotel.  Before departing, Nina took us to a cooking class where we assisted and then, most importantly, ate…

After I parted from Nina and the evercharming, Helas, I wanted to stay on for the Republic Day parade in Delhi.  I had a few days’ wait, so Nina helped me arrange for a 3-day stay at nearby Neemrana Fort-Palace.  A palace dating back to thee 15th century that had fallen to ruin after the fortunes of the mararaja ended.  Taken up by a ambitious couple of developers who turned it (eventually) into an amazing resort.  There is a recent addition of a ZipLine tour up to the nearby hilltops.  There is an amphitheater where I saw an evening of classical dance.  There were afternoon teas,  nightly feasts and a small cooking lesson.  My rooms were in the 15th century wing, but half the hotel has been recently built in the same style.  I enjoyed the winding corridors that led to different wings.  I’d take a turn and find myself in a garden or climbing stairs to a crows nest.  Lots of photos.

Had a tour of Neemrana town.  An elaborate water source was built with almost a hotel down the sides.  The entire 8 or 10 levels down to the water level had walls lined with rooms for traveler’s to stay in (in the olden days).  On the way back to town, my guide, Ballou, let me visit his home and meet his wife.  Very friendly community.

The finale of my visit was the Republic  Day parade.  Very security conscious, New Delhi requires constant checks for weapons.  I was patted down and scanned with a wand, every time I entered my hotel.  Any car approaching the hotel, had the mirrored wand run under its carriage, the trunk opened and papers reviewed.  To attend this parade was even more stepped up. Everyone  had a ticket with an assigned seat alongside the parade ground.  We were not allowed cameras, water bottles, purses or packs of any kind.  I was run through a scanner and then with all the other ladies, taken behind a curtain to be patted down.

The parade ground had a huge archway (like the arc de triomphe) at one end.  The high officials had a grandstand towards that direction.  As the different parts of the parade reached them, they made their salutes and other signs of respect, the bands played their loudest and the announcer made flowery comments.  There were tanks and missiles, battalions and camel mounted brigades.  It was showy, both modern and old fashioned, and all together hypnotizing! 

One last night, an afternoon of shopping, and an evening Air India flight back to NYC.  I was horrified to find that the video selections hadn’t changed from my earlier flight.  16 odd hours without entertainment?  But,  when I turned to the Hindi films, it turned out that they had English sub-titles!  So, I watched about 8 Indian films and really got a grasp of the country’s style.  Later, when I saw Slum Dog Millionaire, I could appreciate how it included the classic ingredients.  A bit like Shakespeare’s comedies where the co-incidences, long lost relatives or sweethearts and happy endings abide.  And the dance numbers….so Busby Berkeley!

While I was in India, Slum Dog was nominated for the Academy Awards.  I loved reading the articles in the newspapers covering it.  Obama was inaugurated during my stay, also.  I have clipped those Indian Newspaper articles and kept them.  It was amazing  to have another country so interested in my own government.  And such fans.  The day after the inauguration, as we arrived at the tourist office to meet our driver for the day, he was standing against the wall with the newpaper wide open, reading.  There on the open front page, was full coverage with photos of Obama.  I asked the driver if he had seen any of the coverage.  With the time difference, it was after midnight before it was shown.  The driver said that he tried to stay awake to watch his acceptance speech, but that his “eyes fell asleep”.  I loved that they shared my hope and optimism for my country’s leadership. 

When I arrived in NYC, it ws snowing and my flight to San Francisco had been canceled due to frost on the wings.  I struggled to maintain for the next 12 hours in the JFK airport until the next Jet Blue to San Francisco.  They had no place to store luggage for the day, so I had to stay with it.  I ended up making a wall of the suitcases, topped it with a folded up coat, and leaned up against it and slept!  I had a very groggy flight to SFO, rented a car, arrived in Berkeley in the evening in time to hit the sack, get a good night’s sleep and actually wake up refreshed! 

I spent the next week finding a tenant for a vacant apartment before flying back to Mexico.

Here are the 308 photos from India I was able to edit down from the original 2000!  Click on this hot link and then select “slide show” , sit back and enjoy. India 2009

Mexico 2008/2009

October 28, 2008

When I last wrote in the Travel Blog, I was in Arizona saying good-bye to Rocky and Jewel.  It was so hectic, that I was writing in “short-hand”…just the bare bones of the trip. 

Thanks to Linda Ranweiler, I had a full set of instructions for crossing the border and traveling through Mexico to Puerto Vallarta.  I was so nervous about my first experience driving into Mexico, that I don’t know what I would have done without her sharing her experience.  I got my required Mexican auto insurance from her agent in Nogales,  Don Smith, who gave me a set of instructions complete with photos of the highway signs to watch for!  That guided me through the permit and visa process as well as the check points I needed to stop for.  He instructed me to enter Mexico by way of the Truck Route, thereby avoiding any contact with the troubled city of Nogales, Mexico.   Linda had recommended the book, RV Guide to Camping in Mexico, and I  had already chosen the Colonial town of Alamos for my first night’s stay.  I had an uneventful drive through mostly desert scenery and by the second afternoon, had arrived in Mazatlan.  In the book, I had found a park that was only one block from the beach and spent a quiet night. Photos from this trip:  click on the hot link   DRIVE TO MEXICO

 By 2:30 in the afternoon on the third day, I was pulling into Puerto Vallarta.  I had become a bit comfortable with driving in Mexico by then, and was not overwhelmed by the congested roadways in PV.  I knew the way to my new home in PV, the RV park on Francia in the Versailles neighborhood.  I was almost alone in the park, all grassy and blooming.  I set up against my own little brick patio, and spent the night. 

I spent the next few days at the Ayurvedic Spa at the north end of the Bay of Banderas.  Was cleansed through fasting and colonics.  Massaged at least once a day with scrubs and oils, sometimes with two masseuses at a time. Very interesting experience.

Photos at the Ayurvedic Spa:   click on the hot link   Ayurvedic Retreat

I was yearning for my home in Yelapa.  For many years, I have arrived on the first of October, a time when it is still rainy, humid and very very quiet.  I would usually be the first “international” returning for the season.  This time, it was already November.  The weather was quite comfortable, lots of friends had already settled in, and instead off a month of meditation, I found that I was diving right into the social whirl. 

To see photos of my arrival and first days in Yelapa 2008, please click on this lot link:   First Days Back In Yelapa

I enjoyed the kindergarten (jardin des ninos) dancing performance. My neighbor, Viane, chickened out.  Photos of the “stars”:  jardin des ninios

With the camper van parked in Puerto Vallarta, I had a place to stay when I visited PV.  Plus it was a gorgeous setting:  Photos – PV RV Park

 

In no time, it was November 20, Day of the Revolution.  School children parading on the beach, families with cold drinks and cameras.  Kids tumbling, diving through burning hoops, piling up on human pyramids.  Children in costumes of the revolution dancing in the sand.  Teenagers, in costume, on horseback.  The honor students in snappy dress, carrying the flags in a color guard.  Admiring the festivities are the gringo friends. At the end of the beach, a circle is formed, flags are presented, speeches are made, the national anthem is sung to much shouting of “Viva!”.  A fine day. Photos:  Dia de Revolution

There was the usual Thanksgiving “pot luck” at April’s:  Yelapa Thanksgiving

I am blissfully happy with my mornings spent out on the patio, drinking my coffee, reading my book, watching the fishermen, the water taxis coming into the pier and the dolphins and whales playing out on the bay.  Photos at home:  my Yelapa house

Monday night at the movies at April’s, Wednesday and Saturday night Disco’s at Elena’s Yacht Club, Friday night jam session at Mimi’s, and Sunday morning brunch at Susan’s.  I added a new tradition of Wednesday night Art Walk in Puerto Vallarta.  Because I now had a “pied a terre”, my van to sleep in, I was able to spend the night, if I liked.  Every Wednesday night, most of the art galleries in town are open from 6-10pm serving wine and often having the featured artist present.  I loved being able to attend, visiting with Cordell and Artemisa at their Corona Gallery, Gary Thompson at Galeria Pacifico and seeing my friend’s paintings at the Loft and the Galeria des Artistes.  Gloria Elias has her bronze sculptures in a couple of galleries now.  The night I arrived in PV was a Wednesday, and I was so hungry for a sight of a Yelapa friend, that I toured the galleries with my eyes open for a familiar face.  I couldn’t believe my luck when I ran into Dana, Karidwyn, Paul, Gail and  !  Old home week.

I also stayed in PV for the 5-day film festival.  Saw 9 films in 4 days!  The last day, was the Guadalupe Festival finale and as usual, Dave and Roger were in town in their hilltop condo above the church, and together we watched the processions, enjoyed the mariachis, entered the church to listen to the music and was blessed with the holy water sprinkled by the priests at the entrance to the church.  A yearly tradition.  Photos:  Guadalupe Festival PV

I had a visit from Ed and Cornelia Gould who sailed into Yelapa Bay!  Photos:  Ed and Cornelia sailed

Christmas Day dinner at Maria’s with friends: Christmas at Maria’s

Some days I just took photos of what seemed typical, or special or of friends. around town and on the beach and then also more birds and lizards

This year, I also spent New Year’s Eve attending a party at Roger and Dave’s.  What fun!  All dressed up, eating and dancing and watching the  midnight  fireworks from the rooftop perch.  I missed the Yelapa disco, but enjoyed the Big City Experience.   

I interrupted my Yelapa stay, with a trip to India.  I flew back to Berkeley on New Year’s Day in order to have time to pack for the trip.  While I was in India, I learned of the death of the wonderful Isabel.  Yelapa’s matriarch, inspiration, Huichol confidante, social leader and teacher.  Very hard to believe that we could have lost her in the prime of her 82 year-old life.  But, I guess she would have preferred to “die with her boots on”.

In March, Isabel’s daughter and brothers came to Yelapa and we had a memorial.  Chris and Beverly flew down from the mountain scattering ashes and flower petals.  It was an inspiring sight.  There were verbal tributes, tears and smiles, food, music and dance.  Isabel would have loved it.

Photos from the memorial day: Isabel’s memorial

I received the news from my acting landlord, Jorge, that next year when his daughters take over the ownership of my house, they are thinking that they would like to have a “vacation home”.  The writing was on the wall for me and I began to think of alternatives.  With the help of Maria Pina, I was able to arrange to build an apartment on the roof of my next door neighbor’s, Agustina and Pancho.  Maria suggested speaking with Emelio, the very artistic builder, about helping me and I was able to persuade him to take the job.  He speaks English which makes communication so much easier.  I’ve drawn up a floor plan and am dreaming of the finishing touches.  We’ve signed a 9-year lease and I’m beginning to save up the money to begin construction next November.  It should be ready to move my belongings in by the time I leave at the end of March.  My current  lease will be up on May 1st.  Hopefully, all will go smoothly.

Photos of my beach:   my beach

I had to fly back to Berkeley to fill another apartment vacancy the last week of March.  When I returned to PV, I picked up my van, made arrangements to come back to the RV park again next year, paying up in advance, and took off for my return drive to the US.  I more or less retraced my steps, but this time I stayed in a different RV park in Alamos.  It was delightful.  An oasis just outside of town with bougainvilleas climbing the trees, a stately line of palms and a lovely view of the valley below.  The route to reach it was a challenge, including fording a river and skirting a cemetery.  But worth it.  Easy border crossing and arrival in Arizona. 

Back to the Road Trip!

The Road Trip

(I haven’t been successful in actually printing photos on my blog, but now I have been able to set up hot links to Picasa sites where you can view slide shows of the Park or what I saw that day.  It’s getting better and better!)

Sunday, May 18

Marty’s 70th birthday party and a chance to say good bye to lots of friends. Packed up and left town at about 8:30pm. Drove until midnight and then took a nap at a rest stop. Woke up many hours later….

 

Monday, May 19

Arrived early morning at Joshua Tree National Park. Bought my senior pass and my passport book where I will get stamped at each national park!  Was able to spend the whole day driving through the park, taking small hikes and enjoying the beauty of the desert. It was hot, probably close to 100 degrees, but there was a breeze that cooled things down. I spent the night at the Joshua Lake campgrounds and had an electrical hook-up, so I had air conditioning.

Since I can’t seem to get the photos into the blog, I’ve uploaded all the photos from Joshua Tree onto a Picasa site. Please click on the hot link just below and then click on “slide show”:  joshua tree
 

Tuesday, May 20

I took an interesting route to Arizona.  Across the Mojave desert and drove for awhile on Route 66. At one point I was passed by a line of 7 motorcycles with riders sitting low, with their legs all straight out in front of them, and then around the next bend, there was a line of eleven Humbees, all painted camouflage, full of army guys coming towards me.

On Route 66, there is Roy’s Cafe from the ’50′s under construction.  I got a T-shirt! To see all the photos I took between Joshua Tree and Grand Canyon, please click on the following hot link and then click “slide show”:  crossing over to Arizona

Arrived at Grand Canyon in the afternoon and took many photos. I couldn’t believe my eyes.  Gorgeous weather and clear skies. I stayed at Mather campground (no electrical hook-ups) for 3 nights.

 There are a zillion photos of Grand Canyon. Click on this hot link and then click “slide show” and enjoy:  Grand Canyon

Wednesday, May 21

Saw elk, deer, squirrels and a rabbit.  John Wesley Powell said about the Colorado River, “Too thick to drink, too thin to plow”.  Watched the sun set out at Hopi Point. Had dinner at El Tovar, a log cabin/hotel right on the rim of the canyon. Really cold night.

 

Thursday, May 22

SNOW!! Drove through a snow storm out to Desertview Tower. Amazing sight. Attended lectures, hiked, caught glimpses of the canyon as things cleared up in the afternoon.

 

Friday, May 23

Got an early start to Lake Powell/Glen Canyon/Page, Arizona. Drove through Painted Desert and more canyon territory.  Beautiful red sand hills and bluffs.  Rainy afternoon, so I caught up on internet.  Evening at Navajo Village Heritage Center.  Lots of education, weaving demonstration, touring Hogan-style houses, dinner of Fry Bread with beans and salsa.

For photos of this area (lots of the slot canyon) click on this hot link and then click on “slide show” :   Page/Glen Canyon/Antelope Valley

Saturday, May 24

Second day in Page. Toured the Glen Canyon Dam and visited the museum. Wanted to take the boat trip down the Colorado River from there, but the weather was still too iffy. Went over to the Antelope Valley where they have “slot canyons”. Hard to describe, but narrow canyons where you almost could touch each side, open at the top in sometimes twisted ways. The water from flash floods rushes through and carves amazing shapes. When the light filters through, you can take some amazing photos. I did my best.

Sunday, May 25

Took the scenic route south to Flagstaff. Drove through part of Monument valley, lots of colorful bluffs and Navajo land. Arrived at Flagstaff museum just in time for the Zuni Festival. Lots of dancing, traditional costumes, arts and crafts and educational talks. Headed out towards Sedona for the night.

Monday, May 26

Everyone told me that I should visit Sedona, but I didn’t know what to expect. The town is nothing special…there are adobes, but mostly tourist shops. It’s the setting that knocks your socks off. There are these giant red bluffs completely surrounding the town and dwarfing it. They have eroded into weird shapes (the town has named most of them…Snoopy is one…yes, the Charlie Brown dog). The other thing about Sedona is that they have vortexes. Wherever there are updraft spots, vortex energy can happen (On the beach in Yelapa near the lagoon is well-known to be a vortex spot. We even have a restaurant named the Vortex) Half of Sedona will say that they have been to every single one and “nothing happened” Others say that if you meditate at such a spot, you will get a lot of spiritual work accomplished. I listened to a lecture by a man who teaches how to meditate at the vortexes and increase your “joy”. I enjoyed his lecture and I have to admit that there is “something” about Sedona.

To see Sedona photos, cut and paste the following hot link and then click on “slide show”: Sedona

 

Tuesday, May 27

By the end of the second day in Sedona, I’d visited many of the vortex spots and took most of the scenic drives. I saw the Frank Lloyd Wright inspired church and watched the sunset from Airport Road. I took lots of photos of Cathedral rock from just about every angle. Splurged on a dinner out in the “ghost town”, Jerome. But, I got sick of the traffic and was ready to move on and head for Canyon de Chelly.

Wednesday, May 28

I retraced my steps a little bit, but then traveled some off-beat routes through Hopi land and some of the Painted Desert to reach Chinle and enter Canyon de Chelly.
By this time I had learned a bit about the Navajo tragedy of the “long walk”. I think it was Kit Carson who betrayed their hiding places in the Canyon and so after remaining independent for so many years, they were finally cornered and marched off to the Fort. Many many died on the way and even more died during the few years of captivity. I think that 4000 out of a population of 5000 perished. They haven’t forgotten. It gets brought up a lot. After all the deaths, the US finally gave them back the rights to some/most of their lands, so they actually live in the Canyon. At the same time it is a “National” Park. So, there is no admission charge because they can’t agree who should get the money. The campgrounds are also free. No one can enter the canyon (off the scenic road) without being accompanied by either a Navajo or a Ranger (who are mostly Navajo). I went on a 3-hour hike down into the canyon and on its floor. I saw petroglyphs and ruins of cave dwellings. There are off-limits farms and homes on the canyon floor, so the whole thing is ancient and (sort of) modern at the same time. It was windy on the mesa.

To see the photos, click on the following hot link and then click “slide show”:  Canyon de Chelly

 

Thursday, May 29

Crossed the border into New Mexico by way of the historical Hubbell Trading Post (National Historic Site) which has been preserved and restored to the way it was at the turn of the century. Drove through the village of Zuni, but couldn’t find campgrounds until El Morro National Park.

Friday, May 30

Headed for Quemado, New Mexico, where my friend Lif Strand lives in a home-made straw bale house out in the countryside and raises Arabian horses. Quite a woman! In her spare time she helps the area in economic development and writes articles, blogs and letters to the editor. Gets her water from a well, her power from solar, but sits at her desk with a cat on top of the computer and instantly has her internet connection with the world. We talked about old times and caught up with the new. Good visit. But, I forgot to take photos. :-

To see photos from this day, click on this hot link: May 30

Saturday, May 31

Took a variety of scenic routes (including El Malpais National Monument and Acuma with a tour of Sky City mesa pueblo) to get to Albuquerque for the night. Made it in time for a walking tour of Old Town given by the Museum. Lovely plaza, wonderful old adobe buildings, vintage 1860. Lots of history/folklore/pride.

Sunday, June 1

Spent the night with friends, Joanne and Ranny Kennedy. We met years ago in Oaxaca, visit yearly when they come to Puerto Vallarta and take a day trip to Yelapa. I finally saw the wonderful country home that they designed and built and filled with Joanne’s art work. I’d only seen photos of her work before and enjoyed so much seeing the full extent of her talents. They drove me up to Sandia Crest for spectacular views, fed me local New Mexican food including sopapillas drenched with honey. They sat with me over my maps and gave great travel advice and sent me off the next day on the Turquoise Trail to Santa Fe.

 

To see photos from this visit, click this link: June 1&2

Monday, June 2

Had two days and one night in Santa Fe and gained a ton. I had the most memorable meal at The Cowgirl Hall of Fame. Chile relleno with goat cheese and dusted with pumpkin seeds, but even better was a dish with two very moist tamales covered with tender little shrimp in a perfect New Mexico sauce. I can still taste it as I describe it. Yum. I walked around the old town and, of course, visited the Georgia O’Keefe museum and the gallery-lined Canyon Road. I took a walking tour from a very eccentric old(er) woman with a broad brimmed red hat! She was a character and was full of outrageous stories and comments. In Loreto Chapel we saw the miraculous circular staircase (with no visible means of support) and other wonderful old churches and hotels. The 28 year old attendant in the parking lot I used both days, took a fancy to me and proposed that I wait until he got off work at 5pm and he would accompany me on my trip. He said he liked my spirit. I chuckled for the rest of the day whenever I thought of it.

To see photos from this day, click this link: Santa Fe

Tuesday, June 3

All I needed to do was travel the couple of hours to Taos to visit Alaska Jack and Linda Ranweiller, friends from Yelapa. But, I took the scenic route and was side-tracked in Bandelier National Park where I wandered among the ruins and climbed in old cliff-side cave houses. I chose a nice looking route on the map, but in reality, although truly scenic, it added many many hours to the trip. At night-fall I had only gotten as far as the Abiquiu Dam when I finally got a cell phone signal again and called Linda. She asked if I was anywhere near Abiquiu Dam, and I said, “yes, but why” It turned out that Jack had gone on a fishing trip and was camping for the night there. Unbelievable, and yet not surprising. I turned down towards the boat ramp, and there is was pulling his boat out of the water, with a couple of fish in the cooler and dog, Clementina, in the camper. I got the camp site across from Jack and we settled down to share a bottle of wine and catch up. Perfect.

To see photos from this day, click the following: June 3

Wednesday, June 4 – Sunday, June 8

Both Jack and I arrived in Taos in the afternoon. I had digressed to visit Georgia O’Keefe territory in Abiquiu and Ghost Ranch, plus Ojo Caliente Hot Springs for a dip in their many pools and Jack went out for a couple more fish.
Taos is almost flat mesa land ringed by snow capped mountains in the distance. Beauty everywhere you look. Lovely to watch the changing colors of the mountains at different times of day.
Jack and Linda have been living in Taos for a few years now and a couple of years ago, bought land out in the country where they plan to build their own adobe home using mud from the land for the bricks. There is an acequia, which is a canal of fresh water passing through the land of the community, shared and maintained by the community. There are cattle grazing next door (and occasionally in the garden), birds, wild flowers, frogs, prairie dogs and coyotes. But, there is also a cultivated food garden, a home-made sauna, green house, work shed, holding tanks, etc. etc. Hardworking folks.
On Saturday , Jack gave me the whole morning to help me better understand my van and better anchor my computer cabinet door. I will be forever grateful.
Linda invited me to stay for her birthday on the 8th, so I had a long stay in Taos. Linda took me on a couple of scenic drives (Enchanted Circle) to see nearby towns with colorful histories (as well as the claim to fame that Julia Roberts lives there). She showed me the home on the mesa of Joan and Bryden (ex-residents of Yelapa) as well as the Earthship house and the nearby bridge over the Rio Grande gorge. We all went to the gym for their outdoor hot tub as well as hot showers. We ate more than one meal of Jack’s fish (both local and Alaskan). Linda took me to the Millicent Rogers Museum full of amazing Indian jewelry and crafts.
I also was able to visit Heather and Michael Miro (daughter of Carol/Pearl Tranter Jones). Heather has a salon in Taos and Michael has a wonderful glass studio. We had a breakfast together and Heather gave me the Tour. The Taos finale was surely the Birthday celebration on Sunday. Joan, Brydon, Jack, Linda and I went to the Solar Center (The local solar powered radio station has an outdoor music venue) for a Eliza Gilkerson concert. An audience full of Taos characters, a performance full of Taos references, and parents and children dancing down by the stage. It was cold, but heart-warming. I renewed friendships and was delighted to finally meet Joan and Brydon. Started to feel quite at home in Taos.

To see my Taos photos, please click on the following hot link and then click on “slide show”:   Taos

Monday, June 9

Crossed the border into Colorado. Took one of the many scenic routes through a picturesque valley with at least two dozen antelope. Some grazing on roadside grass!
Somehow missed connections with my cousin in Boulder, so arrived on the doorstep of Yelapa friend, Allison, in Denver at about dinner time. After a lovely neighborhood walk around the resevoir, we were joined by her boyfriend, John , for sushi. Yes, sushi in Denver (and it was good). I parked the van in Allison’s driveway, plugged into electric and slept well.

To see the photos of my going to Colorado, please click on the following hot link and then click on “slide show”:  Going to Colorado  To see photos in Denver, click on the following:  Denver 6/9

Tuesday, June 10

Allison gave me directions to a wonderful spot in Denver by the REI store where there are walkways and bike trails along the river. The buildings are old fashioned and all together, I decided that I liked Denver very much.
Still didn’t hear back from my cousin, so I headed for Rocky Mountain National Park and the village of Estes Park where they have RV parks with electricity (in contrast to the Park campgrounds without even flush toilets or showers). Arrived early afternoon with time to visit the ranger/visitor center, get maps and take off for a scenic drive and a couple of short hikes around lakes. I was wearing shorts and there was still snow around the lake!
They have a tram that goes to the top of a mountain with 180+ degree views. They sell peanuts to feed the chipmunks. In contrast to the Nat’l Park policy of do not disturb the wildlife, this commercial outfit encourages it. So, I sat down and put my hand out and was mobbed by little creatures with their jowels so stuffed with nuts that they looked like they had a severe case of the mumps! And they put their little hands on my fingers as they took the nut. I got photos.
As I drove through town, I noticed the movie theater was playing “Sex in the City”. So, I saw my first movie of the year! Loved it.

To see photos from this park, click on this link: Rocky Mt 610-11

Wednesday, June 11

Was awakened in the night by the van almost rocking from gusts of wind. A storm was brewing and we had snow! The park roads were closed at the higher levels, but I found enough routes to drive to fill up my day. I attended a ranger lecture on long-horned sheep and then was able to observe one wading in the mud. (Huge balls.) I also hiked the .9 mi uphill route to Alberta Falls. When I went by early in the day it was snowing, but at about 3pm, some sun came through, so I raced up and had a great hike. Called it an early evening and caught up on the blog.

Thursday, June 12

Before I went to sleep last night, I consulted the calendar and realized that to keep my schedule of 10 days in each state, I would be crossing over to Utah in one week. I checked the National Parks in Colorado that I wanted to see and decided to get a move on. I consulted the maker of my morning Latte for the most scenic route south to Colorado Springs and hit the road. It was an amazingly beautiful drive. I tried to take photos of some of the things that knocked my socks off, but began to realize that sometimes it’s the context. It’s suddenly turning a corner and finding a snow capped mountain right in front of you. Or seeing the contrast of a green grassy meadow stretched out to meet the snow capped mountain. At one time I joked that the only thing wrong with Colorado is that there aren’t enough turn-outs along the highways where I can take photos!
So I reached Colorado Springs in the late afternoon. I stopped at the Tourist Information Office and got lots of brochures, pamphlets and advice. The kindly lady who helped me insisted that I use their phone to call for a reservation on the train up to Pike’s Peak. They also found me a coupon for a free donut at the rest station at the top of the mountain. Because of the altitude, they have a special recipe for donuts that doesn’t require a rising agent. Or something like that. Anyway, it was very nice of them to go to the trouble and I did get a donut and they make the donuts right in front of you, so it was all great fun.
But, I’m getting ahead of myself. On Thursday, there was not much time left to do much more than check into my RV park and take a tour of Garden of the Gods.
The RV Park was located in Old Colorado City, this very cool, very old little neighborhood full of colorful shops and restaurants in old buildings with lots of flower pots added. It turns out that just beyond Old Colorado City is Manitou Springs, another even more picturesque town. I had to go through there to catch the train, and that’s where I got my Latte’s for a couple of days. The latte shop is run by a couple of gay guys who spend their vacations in San Francisco, so liked that I was from Berkeley. My friend, Victor, once told me that I could probably do a documentary on the used bookstore owners that we thought I would be meeting on this trip. Well, it turns out that I haven’t had the opportunity to even read a full short story, let alone a whole book, since I began this adventure. Who I actually meet on a regular basis are the proprietors of coffee shops. I usually just drive around and look for a place that says espresso, but sometimes I ask a local where they think the best latte in town is. They are all really “into” it. Their tiny cups that some immediately rinse out, turn upside down on the rack, ready for the next fresh cup. The steam spout that goes into the milk and gets wiped off immediately. The spoon to hold back the foam until there is just enough hot milk in the cup. I always order the largest size that they offer, which many times begins a whole discussion about how many espresso shots one needs in order to function through the day. I get to bond with a real cross section of the country.
To get back on the subject, The Garden of the Gods is a city-owned park, but a National Natural Landmark. It’s free to visit and you drive through the park passing by towering sandstone formations. There’s a museum, an informative film, and a great view of Pike’s Peak from the park.
I usually cook for myself in the van (the cost of gas is so high that I can’t justify restaurant bills in addition. My Lattes are the luxury I can’t give up.). However, the nice lady at the tourist office gave me a brochure about a Chuck Wagon dinner out at a cattle ranch just outside of town, and after dinner the cowboys sing real cowboy songs. I couldn’t resist, so off I went to the Flying W Ranch along with about 200-300 others from all over the country and the world (they ask you for your home zip code when you buy your ticket, and they announce from the stage what states and countries are represented. There were people from Finland.) They serve a barbeque on tin plates and lemonade or ice tea in a tin cup, with second and third helpings available. Well, it was my cowboy experience for the trip.
It was after dark when I crept back into the RV park and quietly set up my household without waking anyone up.

Friday, June 13
Colleen wrote me that this is Gracie’s graduation day from Berkeley High. (I guess that means that it is Remy Glickman’s day, too.)
After exploring Manitou Springs and having my latte, I headed for the train station. It is a Cog Railway (I think the San Francisco cable cars are Cog trains, too) that hauled us up to 14,110 feet above sea level to the summit of Pike’s Peak. It’s a gorgeous ride ( The cars had glass windows to protect us from the wind and keep us warm as we passed through the snow. (I took photos through the glass, we’ll see how they turn out.) From the top, you can see four states. Walked around, had the donut and we all rode down again. I love riding trains, so it was a total treat.
It turned out that there were about a zillion things to do in the Colorado Springs area and I only had time to do a few. I visited cliff dwellings, almost toured a cave (there was a long wait for an available tour), drove around the countryside including a town called Victor (in honor of Victor) and Cripple Creek, an old gold mining town that is now full of casinos. I had no intention of stopping, but then…..I played poker slots and won $20.

To see photos of these past two days in Colorado Springs area, click on this link: Colo Springs 612-13

Saturday, June 14

I planned another indirect but scenic route to get me to the Great Sand Dunes National Park by way of Florissant Fossil Beds. Petrified Redwood tree trunks and perfectly formed plants and insects from 30-35 million years ago! They were trapped inside of hardening mudflows way back then.

To see the photos from the Florissant Fossil Beds, click on the following hot link and then click “Slide Show”:  Florissant Fossil Beds

The Great Sand Dunes are at the base of one section of the snow capped Sangre de Cristo Mountains. It’s hard to describe how tall they are, but I felt like an ant might be at the beach. I climbed and slid down. But, the real attraction for the kids was the wide, shallow pulsing stream that flows along the base. There were lots of sunburned families and kids building sand castles, forts, and dams.

To see the photos from Great Sand Dunes, click on the following hot link and then click “slide show”:  Great Sand Dunes

Sunday, June 15

The next National Parks on my lists were Curecanti and Black Canyon of the Gunnison. Curecanti offers a boat ride on Blue Mesa Reservoir, but once again I was stymied in my desire to float down a river. The trips were postponed until later in the month due to the massive run offs of melting snow headed for the reservoir creating the need to drain it to quite a low level in anticipation. Oh, well, some day. The area was very beautiful.
The Black Canyon of the Gunnison rivals Arizona’s Grand Canyon in depth and beauty, but it is very narrow. Where the Grand Canyon is soft, river-carved rock sculpted by erosion, Black Canyon is hard rock uplifted then cut through by fast-moving water. At one time there was a train track built down in the bottom through one section of it. Like the Grand Canyon, there is a south rim and a north rim, and roads built alongside of the rims with lookout spots set aside. I drove the scenic tour. I left the area in time to drive to the town of Oury for the night. They have hot springs and I got a massage! When I settled into the RV Park, I started to aim the windows around my bed to the side of this narrow town that has wonderful cliffs. Then I turned around and realized that the opposite side was striking red bluffs. It’s a narrow little historic town nestled between really really high shear walls on either side. You enter at the bottom through a meadow and exit at the top on a windy road that heads straight up into the Rockies. A gorgeous place.

To see the photos from Curacanti, click on the following hot link and then click “slide show”: Curecanti National Recreation Area

To see the photos from the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, click on the following hot link and then click “slide show”:  Black Canyon of the Gunnison

Monday, June 16

Some people told me to see Telluride and others said to skip it. To visit there would entail a 35 mile drive from Oury and then 35 miles back. There was no way to include Telluride on a route, I would just have to backtrack. Somehow, I was convinced that if I was so close, I would just have to see it. And I’m glad I did. I got up very early in the morning so that I would make the whole trip and be back in Oury by late morning.
Telluride is a ski town and so surrounded by snow capped mountains. The rich people needed to build big homes and the actual town is an historic community full of tiny shops and homes. So, they created a separate area on the other side of the mountain for the estates and left the town untouched. They then built a free gondola ride between the two. It has three parts. First you ride up to the top of the mountain. That’s where I got off at first and walked around to check out the ski slope. Then I got back on and continued the second half which got me down into the new town. When I got off there, I walked to another building and got on another car which took me into the town center. Then I reversed the trip to return to Telluride. I rode the first section with a young ski bum who was headed for work in the estate part. She told me that all the rich people ride down to Telluride and spend their money and it works out for everyone.
The reason that I had to travel back to Oury was to drive the “million dollar highway” up out of town, south through the mountains (over 10,000 feet) and ending up in Silverton. It’s narrow, steep, full of switchbacks and another one of those situations where around every curve is some sight that takes your breath away. It was awesome.

To see the photos I took in Oury, Telluride and on the Million dollar hiway, click on the following hot link and then click “slide show”:  Ouray, Telluride, Million $ Hiway

I had my lunch by a river in Durango and arrived in Mesa Verde early afternoon. I didn’t really know what to expect. As I approached, I saw this huge flat topped Thing ahead of me and thought that that would really be an amazing place to have built a pueblo. Never dreaming that I would actually be driving around up there on top of the world. There is a lot of driving …even just to get to the visitor center. And the mesas are like fingers, so to get from one to the other, you have to drive back to the source and start out on the next wing. Once again the people at the visitor center came to the rescue and created a plan where I could see just about everything I wanted in the two days I would be there. I toured Cliff Palace and drove around before calling it a day.

To see the photos from Mesa Verde, click on the following hot link and then click “slide show”: Mesa Verde

Tuesday, June 17

The second day I got up at 6am in order to be showered, fed, packed up, dishes washed, gas in the van, and on my way up the mesa by 7:30 in order to get to the 9am tour of Balcony House on time. I drove the Mesa Top, stopped at all the points of interest, went to the museum, saw Spruce Tree House and had my lunch before the afternoon tour of Long House and Badger House community. That was a long day.
Rather than return to the RV campground there in the high desert, I drove a bit out of my way to a cool spot on a river called Priest Gulch just outside of the historic town of Rico (which has no RV park). The river was full and rushing from the melting snow and I slept only a few feet from the bank. I slept so well. When I woke up in the morning, I looked out the window at the river, and then opened one of the doors to hear its sound. A lovely night.

Wednesday, June 18

This is the day to make the transition to Utah. It turned out to be a day that I traveled through four states!
I began by driving back towards Mesa Verde and then west to Hovenweep National Monument. These are ruins of pueblo dwellings built around the rim of a canyon. I spent a couple of hours there and then stopped off at Lawry Pueblo in Canyons of the Ancients. These ruins were built around 1060 AD and there is a lot left of them. You can piece together what life might have been like in those days. I’m beginning to see repeated themes among the different pueblos scattered over the different areas. The Taos pueblo is still lived in and offers answers about customs and usage that may date back to their ancestors.
From Colorado I drove into New Mexico to visit the Four Corners where I had my picture taken standing in all 4 states! Then I drove down to Arizona in order to drive through the Monument Valley at sunset. I spent the night in the little town of Mexican Hat, Utah (no lattes).

To see the photos from this day, click on this “hot link”:  June 18 Hovenweep, etc

 

 

 

Thursday, June 19

Found latte in Blanding Utah. after driving the most amazing road straight up to the top of a mesa! My host this morning told me that, Yes, I could drive this route with my van. He said it was very narrow and steep and to just keep my eyes straight ahead. And if I met another car, to look for a place wide enough to pass. I’m surprised that I didn’t turn around and take another route after those cautions. But, it wasn’t that bad. I even stopped for photos.

After latte, I arrived at Natural Bridges National Monument. At turns in the river, the
pressure of the water eventually eroded away the rock on both sides until the river could finally flow THROUGH the rock. The water then created a wider and wider opening until it was a bridge over the water. There were three really good examples of this.
I left there by noon and headed to the south part of the Canyonlands National Park. The section called Needles. At first it was like driving around in the bottom of the Grand Canyon, looking up at the shear walls. Then it became like going through Monument Valley with everything much more close together. There were shapes (like needles) and rounded boulders sitting on top of tall spires. It just kept changing and changing. I took too many photos and bought out all the postcards, too. At the end of the day, I drove north to Moab to a nice RV park where I’ll spend two nights so that I can visit the other half of Canyonlands as well as Arches National Park tomorrow.

Photos from this day: June 19

Friday, June 20

Moab is full of backpackers, river rafters, baby horses and mosquitos! I was bit by mosquitos in town and swarms of gnats in the park until there was no more space on my ears, jawline or around my eyes to be bit. The first park was all out of repellant, the second park sold me a nice smelling spray that I could use on my face (I was wearing a long sleeved turtleneck with the collar UP, pants tucked into my socks, hat on my head and still getting bit on my face and hands), and at the third park I got DEET!
Moab also had an adorable drive-thru coffee hut called Wicked Brew. Southern boy with dreds waited on me and topped my latte lid with a chocolate covered cofee bean. Got a card from them with a line of five nuns holding up rifles. Caption says, “Drink up for Heaven’s Sake”.
The second half of Canyonlands Park is called Island in the Sky. Where in Needles, I drove around the canyon, looking out at the formations, in Island in the Sky, you drive on top of the mesa and look down into the canyon. The road is shaped like a “Y” and out at each point are great views.

To see photos from Canyonland, Island in the Sky, please click on the following hot link and then click “slide show”:  Canyonlands – Island in the Sky

Arches National Park was next. Where Bridges are formed when the river flows adjacent to the rock and eats away at it until it breaks through and makes a new path, the arches are formed by many forces and usually eventually parts of the rock fall away leaving only the arch remaining. In the park, they have given different arches cute names. An area with sandstone “skyscrapers” they call Park Avenue. Many of the viewpoints were trailheads for walks down into the canyons for closer looks. I took some of the shorter ones where even after freshly spraying I hiked with my hands windmilling wildly swatting away the gnats.

To see the photos from Arches, please click on the following hot link and then click “slide show”:  Arches Nat’l Park

Saturday, June 21

Spent the morning at Capitol Reef National Park. They talk about the Waterpocket Fold “like the swell of giant waves rolling toward shore”. I have to say that I never saw exactly what they were talking about, but I think I needed to look at it from the air (or outer space) to see the pattern. The Visitor Center is located near the Morman settlement of Fruita which is still set up as a museum where you can visit a restored homestead with fresh baked pies and jams all from the harvest of the local fruit trees. An old man who was raised on the homestead recorded his memories of growing up there and they play the recording of his voice. You can also buy quilts, aprons and the like. I had an individual mulberry pie still warm from the oven.
There’s the usual scenic drive set up with pull-outs where you can either view or hike off into the special spots. There is a huge plateau, called the Colorado Plateau, where ancient plate tectonics forced a huge land area to rise up as one huge mesa. It covers much of Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona and Utah. All the parks in that 4-corners area have much in common. What rose up was rock formed millions of years ago, in many cases from petrified sand dunes. The sandstone was easily eroded down to harder rock that resisted the erosion. Water also percolated down through the porous sandstone and when it hit shale or other non-porous stone, it had to drain out horizontally and that is what caused the caves to form in the side of the cliffs. In other cases, water meandered through the mesa forming canyons and many times the mesa was left with lots of spires sticking up. They call lots of these formations, Hoodoos. They are sometimes spooky shapes. It the very top is not eroded away, it is usually still white colored from the sand. In Capitol Reef, many of the formations have white caps on top. They thought that one of them looked like a capitol building, and hence the name of the park.
When I finished up early afternoon, I decided to take a break and lie around by the pool at the RV park in Torrey and call it a day.

To see the Capitol Reef photos, please click on the following hot link and then click on “slide show”:  Capitol Reef

Sunday, June 22

I drove through Dixie National Forest and Escalante National Monument on the way to Bryce Canyon National Park. This park really knocks your socks off. It takes the Hoodoo to an extreme. They have an area called the Amphitheater that truly has taken on that shape. It is like looking at a maze…I can’t describe it, so I took another zillion photos here. They say that when an early settler was asked what it was like to have this wonder in his back yard, he said, “It’s a hell of a place to lose a cow.” I took lots of hikes here. I kept wanting to see things from a different angle. And every perspective gave a totally different look to the marvels. In Bryce, they give you the option of riding the free shuttles. That way, I parked at one look-out, hiked below the rim over to another look-out and then picked up the shuttle to get back to my van.
It was very hot…probably over 100 degrees. I was happy that my RV park, located right at the edge of the park, had a pool. I’m finding that this is a very nice life.

Monday, June 23

I took a side trip to Cedar Breaks National Park on my way to Zion. A long climb up to the top of a 10,000 foot plateau and a wide open look out on a canyon with an amphitheater created by erosion and colored by iron and manganese.

I loved Zion. To enter the park from Mt Carmel, you travel a steep windy road until you are faced with a mile long tunnel. All along the approach you look down into canyons and up at huge peaks striped with red, white and green. I had a similar reaction to Grand Canyon. Jaw drop, gasping out loud. This park is set up with mandatory shuttle busses. I arrived in the afternoon, parked at the Visitor Center and talked with the rangers and watched the introductory film at their museum. I signed up for a free Ranger-led shuttle ride from one end of the park to the other for the next morning.
The first night I stayed in the Watchman campgrounds (no electricity, no showers). The second night I moved to an RV park literally just outside the park and in a space abutting the Virgin River.

To see the photos of this in between period, please click the following hot link and then click “slide show”:  In between

Tuesday, June 24

The series of canyons were formed by the Virgin River and are so narrow that sunlight doesn’t always reach the bottom. To hike into the far section is called hiking the Narrows, and I was determined that I would be able to brag that I had done it. That meant renting a walking stick and wearing my pink Converse shoes because after a mile walk along the river, it grows too narrow and you then enter the river and walk on loose stones against the current for another few hours. I walked another hour and a half, in icy water sometimes up to my waist, before I turned around, but I did it, I hiked the Narrows!
I often find that the rangers are very outgoing and enjoy helping people plan their day or two in the park. This time, I ran into a man who totally got into it. He is the one who planned my walk in the Narrows and encouraged me to take on the challenging hike. He also figured out what time of day to get the best light on different parts of the park and also how to avoid the heat of the day. It reached 105 degrees while I was there. By 7 am I had driven back through the tunnel and was on a 1-mile hike to a view point where the morning sun would illuminate the cliffs. At the end of the day I was on a 2-mile hike to lower and middle Emerald pools and waterfalls while they are in the shade.

To see my Zion photos, click the following hot link and then click “slide show”:   Zion

Wednesday, June 25

From Zion I headed for Kolob Canyons which are almost an extension of the Zion canyons, but from a different perspective. I made it a short excursion, and limited it to a scenic drive before heading for the hiway north to Provo, Utah.

To see the photos from Kolob Canyons, please click on the following hot link and then on “slide show”:  Kolob Nat’l Park

I was given directions by my cousin, Mary Beth, to arrive at the family compound for a barbeque. Mary Beth and her husband Wayne hosted six of their seven adult children, two sons-in-law and five grandchildren. Molly (pregnant with twins) with husband, Trent, children, Haddie and Hazel live across the street; Mindy lives in half the duplex; Kami (husband Michael made a brief appearance) with children, Sadie, Chase and Carter, live within a mile; Steffany lives on the corner; brothers Matt and JD live in the other side of the duplex. I carried my camera around the whole evening and forgot to take one photo. Overwhelmed.

Thursday, June 26

The two nights I spent in Provo were parked in Molly’s driveway getting electricity from an outdoor plug. While I was there, I completely took apart my van storage and with the help of Haddie and Hazel, scrubbed, swept and dusted the whole inside. With the help of Wayne and JD we spent at least an hour and many quarters at a car wash where four states’ worth of dried bugs were removed from the van which much to my amazement emerged white once again.
Mary Beth got off work early in order to take me and the little girls on an adventure to drive to the top of the local mountain. Later, she drove me to Sundance which is just a beautiful setting, and we had a great dinner at Robert Redford’s restaurant, Tree House, with a table by the window. I was so glad to have such a good visit with Mary Beth and Wayne, a chance to see the kids again as grown ups, and able to meet the next generation. Mary Beth and I dropped Sadie off at her Irish Step Dancing class. Watch for her in the upcoming movie, The Assignment, rated PG.

To see the few photos of the Westons, cut and paste the following:  Mary Beth in Provo

 

Friday, June 27

An old friend, Jon Prescott, from San Rafael High School lives and works in Salt Lake City. We planned a dinner out and I took a scenic route on the way, and visited Park City, with its historic Main Street. Jon took me to a Japanese restaurant where they grill right in front of you and twirl the utensils and put on quite a show. The kids at the table squealed and backed up the first time the chef made flames, and then sat wide-eyed warily watching for the next trick. Good and entertaining food!

We had a photo taken at dinner:  Jon

Saturday, June 28

Crossed the border to Nevada on hiway 50. Arrived at Great Basin National Park in Baker, Nevada. First a 90 minute tour of Lehman Caves complete with stalagtites and stalagmites and many other formations. Cave formed in sandstone that was hardened into marble. The water dripping through the sandstone, depositing minerals as it drips. Great photos. Then, I took the challenge and did a 2-hour hike at 10,000 feet through some snow to see 4000 Bristle-cone Pines and two snow fed mountain lakes. It was as gorgeous as it sounds. When I hike alone, I find that I have so many thoughts going through my head. But, because I am not speaking out loud, I am still in that wonderful still silence in nature. On my walk today, I came upon a deer grazing on the hillside trail. It actually heard me coming, but I didn’t seem to appear to be a threat, so it just kept munching. It stayed a bit ahead of me on the trail, but it was at least 15 minutes before it decided to get out of my way.

To see the photos from Lehman Cave, click on the following hot link and then click on “slide show”:  Lehman Caves

 

To see photos of the Great Basin National Park and hike, click on the following hot link and then click on “slide show”:  Great Basin Nat’l Park

Sunday, June 29

Coffee latte at the Electrolux Cafe where they also sell T-shirts from Park City, Utah, for Poligamy Porter…”Bring some home for the wives”
Headed towards Ely on Hiway 50 (nicknamed, The Lonliest Road in America). Headed south on 93 to visit the old mining towns near Pioche. Picked up a pamphlet of driving tours of Lincoln County and ended up taking a very long southern loop and ending up back in Ely after dark! I stopped at the Cathedral Gorge State Park which in the photos will look like Bryce Canyon, but is actually a miniature of it.
I drove through Pioche and Caliente and took a little side trip to Kershaw-Ryan State Park which is a little oasis where once a homestead existed in the early 1900′s complete with grapevines. I hiked into the canyon and enjoyed the picnic site and wading pool. Then I turned off to Ash Springs. They say in the brochure, “Ash Springs Recreation Site is unmarked but is located across the highway from the gas station.” Since it was Sunday, the locals were there. Families with the grandmothers sitting in the pools in their housedresses, the wives gossiping together and the little boys doing cannonballs into the pool and then looking at me to see if I was watching. I loved it. The temperature was between 88-97, so it was refreshing on the hot day.
Then I took another side trip onto hiway 375, the “Extraterrestrial Highway”, to visit Rachel, the “newest” town, the “UFO Capital of the World”. I had lunch at the A Le Inn (pronounced Alien).
I headed back north with one more stop to tour the Hickison Petroglyph Recreation Area. I’m no longer surprised to see rock carvings, but it is amazing that they have lasted so long exposed to the elements.
Pulled into Ely and the only RV park I could find was an adjunct to a Casino. Tacky, but I had electricity so turned on the air conditioning and slept well.

To see photos of this day, please click on the following hot link, and then press “slide show”:  July 29th

Monday, June 30

When I was in Baker, I picked up a little booklet titled, “The official Hwy 50 survival guide to the lonliest road in America”. It’s like a passport and each of the little towns on this hiway validate the booklet with their stamp. Then you mail in the completed “passport” and are sent a Survivor Certificate”. I decided to take the challenge. Before leaving town, I stopped by the Ely Chamber of Commerce to get validated. I also asked for the best place to get cafe latte and back tracked to the Flower Basket, located a block from the Train Museum. While the gal was brewing my coffee, I browsed through the brochure about the museum and noticed that it said that on certain days the trains actually ran. I turned to the schedule and found that on Mondays there was a trip at 9:30am. I checked my watch and it was 9:15 and I was a block away. I grabbed by coffee, drove, parked and arrived at the ticket window in plenty of time. They said to bring my coffee on board. The staff were talking about having signed release forms, and when I asked what they were talking about, it turned out that PBS was there to film the morning ride for a special show. There were only 11 of us passengers, so we switched sides of the train, depending on where the cameras were, and waved out little hearts out. The volunteer conductor, Gene Rogers, was dressed perfectly to suit the antique train, so I had someone take a photo of the 2 of us. It was a great ride, the narration both educational and humorous, and I got back in time to take off on my journey on Hiway 50.
First stop was Eureka, Nevada. I had picked up a brochure of a historical walking tour of Eureka and thoroughly enjoyed the walk. Most of the buildings were built in 1880, right after a fire pretty much wiped out the town. Many were rebuilt with (fireproof) stone from local quarries. Next I got stamped in Austin, which didn’t feel as friendly to me, so I drove on to my next side trip, the Berlin-Icthysaur State Park. On the map it looks easy to reach, but it turned out to be a few hours of a very bumpy dirt road that I had to travel at about 10 miles an hour. I arrived after dark, and after the night in the Casino RV park with no showers, I had hoped to find a nice park with a welcoming shower. First I drove through a town called Ione which turns out to have a population of about 7 people. No park, no nothing. Then the park itself had what was actually just a campground, no electricity, no showers. There was one more place on the map, Gabbs, Nevada. So more dirt road and I found Gabbs. I think it is a mining town. Really hardscrabble. It was getting really late and I was low on gas. The town’s one gas station was closed. Noticed a scattering of motor homes on the outskirts, so I drove out, rolled down my window and asked a nearby person, “Is this an RV Park? or is it permanent?” She smiled and said that it was permanent. Back I drove to the State Park.
Now, this is located miles and miles from Nowhere. In some foothills (about 7000 feet elevation) at the edge of a large valley surrounded by more foothills. The nearest towns are on the otherside of the more foothills. But, this is where they found the skeleton of a huge marine animal that is two-hundred and twenty million years old and they are 60 feet long. In this locality in 1950′s they found the remains of 37 Ichthyosaurs. They took one skeleton off to a museum, but the rest were left in place and covered with a structure for protection. This is what I came to see and experience.

For the photos from this day: June 30

Tuesday, July 1

When I woke up, I headed back to the visitor center to check in with the rangers. I had arrived after closing the night before and needed to pay for the admission to the park, the campground and the morning tour. On the way down the mountain, I ran over a small bolder and blew out my tire. What good would Good Sam or Triple A do a million miles from nowhere and with no cell phone reception! I left the van in place and walked on down the hill to the ranger. Ranger Jeff, my hero. He was the only one on duty, wearing spiffy clean ranger shorts and shirt, without hesitation, he put me into his truck and headed up the hill to fix the flat. It, of course, turned out to be much more complicated than he ever dreamed, and we had to interrupt the effort for him to go off and give the tour of the skeleton (with dirty shirt and skinned elbows). Interesting tour. Then, back to the job, and with a little help from a passerby, it was finally done. I slowly and carefully drove off to get gas in Gabbs.
Gabbs is such a small town that to use my mastercard to get gas, meant that I took the bill and drove to a nearby store which has the only mastercard machine in town. Unfortunately, the store entailed a U-turn out of the gas station and the van got hung-up on the little drop-off to the side of the driveway. I mean, really hung-up. It was held up by the back fender and mostly the bicycle rack “hitch” and the back tires spun. I don’t know why I didn’t panic, but I think I was wondering how this day could get any worse. The gal who ran the gas station, shouted to her teenaged son, to run over to the bar and get a couple of guys. And, I met my second heroes of the day, Don and Jerry. They ended up jacking the van up, shoving a few 2×4′s under the tires, trenching a bit of asphalt out from under the “hitch” and I drove right off. A miracle. I only lost the door to one of my storage compartments. The rivets had popped off from the strain. Well, it turns out that Don has his own rivet machine and I followed him to his house (after he bought a six-pack on the way) and pop, pop, pop….and it was done. When I expressed amazement at how helpful everyone had been, he just explained, “That’s how it is in a small town”. I gave them all my cash and my blessings.
I headed to my last stop on Highway 50, the town of Fallon, where after I got my “passport” validated, I got the spare tire replaced, and headed for Virginia City.
Another mining town, another mountainside location, and an RV park that overlooks the historic cemetery. The first thing I asked was if they had showers. It turned out that they had the best showers (actually private dressing rooms with toilet, sink, shower and bench) I have come across. Happy. Since I was through driving for the day, I wandered the main street and stopped into a bar for a beer. I also played a poker slot machine and won $5.10. Guess my bad luck is over.

To see photos from this day, please click on: July 1

Wednesday, July 2

Lovely day in Virginia City. First I rode yet another historical train ride to Gold City. Narration by a rough and tumble guy who looked like he might have worked in the mines. Then, I took a trolley tour of the town, then the museum called “The way it was”, then a tour of an underground mine, then a gambling museum, then toured a 3-story brick school house that served Virginia City from 1876-1936, and also an 1876 4-story hospital on six acres that has been restored and converted to an art center. Just before I left town, I wandered through the historic cemetery. All in all, Virginia City was a lot of fun, but there was still more of the day.
I was due to arrive at the Sparks, Nevada, home of old friend from Berkeley, Laura Sharp and her husband, Ted, who I had never met. The plan was to go out to a Basque dinner at their favorite restaurant, Luis’. (Apparently, Nevada is full of Basque people. Elko was even having a Basque Festival for the 4th of July. They had Basque hotels and always a dining hall attached. Not all the hotels survived, but the restaurants are all over.) So the routine is that first you order a Picon Punch which seems to contain about 4 or 5 different liquors over ice. They all watched me as I took my first taste and seemed relieved that I liked it. Then you are seated at a long table with other people that you don’t know. Then you all talk to each other and pass the platters and tureens of the first courses. Then you get meat. The people we sat with were totally congenial and not obnoxious, so I pronounce the whole experience a success.
I spent the night parked in front of Laura and Ted’s house with a long extension cord.

To see photos from this day, please click on: July 2

Thursday, July 3

The smoke from the California fires is thick in Nevada. I realize now that the smog I saw in Provo and Salt Lake City, may have been forest fire smoke and not dirty air. I planned a trip to Pyramid Lake, but literally couldn’t see across the lake or even see the color blue of the water when I arrived. I enjoyed the museum and drove around the lake. By the time I left, the smoke had cleared a bit. Must go back some day.
My friendship with Melanie dates back to 1968 and the Freight and Salvage kitchenettes! She moved to Nevada many years ago and also lives in Sparks. She kindly offered to take me in for the 4th of July holiday. She lives with her delightful daughter, Courtney, and they made me feel totally at home. I checked e-mail, did laundry, washed dishes and took many showers. We shared a manicure/pedicure and I taught her Sudoko. Thursday night Melanie took me to the Farmer’s Market in Victoria Square and we ate Indian Tacos and watched Karioke.

To see the photos from this day, please click on: July 3

Friday, July 4

We began the day at he National Automobile Museum, the Harrah Collection. Melanie had bought VIP tickets to Floor Dance at the Nugget Casino for the evening and they included a Seafood Buffet. We stuffed ourselves, tapped our feet with the dancers and then followed up by watching the fireworks in both Reno and Sparks from a hillside in Sparks. $100,000 worth of fireworks. Amazing.

To see the photo from this day, please click: July 4

Saturday, July 5

This was the day of laundry and nail salon. Time to start researching the next stage of the trip. Idaho. Friends to visit, parks to see. Goodbye hugs and many thanks to Melanie for opening her home to me.

Sunday, July 6

The last visit with Laura and Ted. A trip to Gerlach, Black Rock desert where they stage Burning Man every Labor Day weekend. We had a shrimp barbecue off the back of their truck in the middle of the “playa”, the desert bed in the middle of nowhere! We set up a couple of umbrellas for shade and set out our folding canvas chairs and had a good laugh. We went by Planet X to see the pottery at this eccentric oasis and ended the afternoon at Bruno’s “Country Club” (I have the T-shirt)…actually only a bar, of course, where we drank more Picon Punches and I won $69.00 on the poker slot machine. “another round and big tip for the bartender!”
We had parked my van on the way to Gerlach where I could take off for my next stop, Elko, Nevada. Arrived at dusk, settled in for the night.

to see the photos of this day, click on this link: July 6

Monday, July 7

The goal today was to enjoy the Ruby Mountains and drive the Lamoille Canyon. This was a recommendation from Laura and Ted and I had not seen any photos ahead of time. What a stunning place. Snow capped mountains, glaciers in the crevices of the mountains, glacier carved canyons, snow fed streams and waterfalls, grassy meadows full of wild flowers. They call it Nevada’s Yosemite. Finished in time to complete the drive to Twin Falls, Idaho before dark. Caught the visitor center still open, picked up maps, brochures and advice, stopped to photograph Shoshone Falls and checked into the county operated RV park alongside a stream where they charge $11 per night including electricity (I saw bathrooms, but I didn’t see any showers, oh well.) Caught up on the Blog. Changed to Mountain Time, so it’s Very Late.

To see the photos from this day, please click on: July 7

Tuesday, July 8

Found my latte in Twin Falls and loved framed slogans on the walls: “Coffee, chocolate and men. Some things are just better rich.” and “The only thing more overrated than natural childbirth, is the joy of owning your own business.”
Idaho has a couple of great free publications for tourists. “Idaho: Scenic, historic and back country byways” and RV Idaho (a pamplet of rv parks in every town and city with the amenities and prices. So, I took the 27 scenic routes and made sure that there were no additional “dotted line” scenic highways on my atlas map, and tried to connect them into a coherent path. Since there is no National Park in Idaho and only a few National Monuments, I had plenty of time for scenic road trips.
I began southwest of Twin Falls with the 68 mile long Thousand Springs Scenic Byway. This follows the Snake River Canyon where I saw farming valleys, fish hatcheries, and historic towns. This area includes the Hagerman Fossil Beds National Monument, a location where they have discovered the skeletons of prehistoric zebra-like horses. Nearby I walked a short bit of the Oregon Trail. The area is a cross roads of the Oregon, California and Emigrant Trails. It made me wonder which route my Great Great Grandfather ND Hill took when he and his Father and brothers came to California from Philadelphia. Was I standing in the same spot he did, looking at the same scenery and landmarks? I suddenly felt a personal interest in this historical place.
Nearby are the “thousand springs”. At some point, the river was diverted and trapped away from its banks and water seeps underground on the plateau until it reaches the canyon and comes out creating waterfalls that go down into the river in many places along the mesa. I took a side road to see “balanced rock” in another canyon. It was dramatic.
I’ve been taking some photos to show what the countryside is like, with the old farms and huge fields full of grasses, potatoes, etc. Along the way, I couldn’t resist taking pictures of a field of llamas. They were curious and came to greet me.
The second scenic route was called, “City of Rocks Back Country Byway”. “Forming a 49-mile necklace around the Albion Mountain Range, … (it) traces a rural landscape steeped in history and geological significance.” The City of Rocks National Reserve is a valley full of huge rock formations that lend themselves to rock climbing now and as part of the California Trail, was used for wagon train camping in the past. Some of the more popular spots have the pioneer names written in axel grease on the rocks with the dates of their stays in the 1800′s. There are also the ruins of an old rock house that belonged to an early settler. Beginning in 1843, City of Rocks was a landmark for the emigrants on the pioneer trails.
I finished my drive early enough to fit in the last tour of the day at the Shoshone Ice Cave. The entire cave is beween 4 and 8 feet deep in ice, created by the way the wind travels through the cave openings. It has a quirky history and was something I wanted to have visited. Continued north, just past the Craters of the Moon National Monument to spend the night in an Arco RV park that offers pancakes and eggs for breakfast included in the cost.

To see photos from this day, please click on this link: July 8

Wednesday, July 9

Settled for the RV Park coffee that came with breakfast, and drove the few miles to the Craters of the Moon, a 750,000 acre lava bed, so named because they thought that it looked like the surface of the moon as seen through a telescope. The early astronauts even trained here. There’s lava tubes, cinder cones, spatter cones, craters, lava flows, etc. Collapsed lava tubes create caves. I joined a ranger tour of one huge, deep cave. What I learned there amazed me. Millions of years ago, there was a hot spot under eastern Oregon, it moved east under this area and had lots of eruptions over thousands of years (as recently as 2000 years ago). It then continued to move as the surface plates did their movements over it, until today it is under Yellowstone. You can see it when you study the maps and see the valleys that were created as it passed under (pretty much the rest of Idaho is mountains). But, it seems to me that means that Yellowstone may someday be quiet as it continues to move east through Wyoming. New York City, look out!
In the afternoon, I took the 116 mile Sawtooth Scenic Byway up over Galena Pass to Stanley. I went through Ketchum and near Sun Valley on the way. The ridged Sawtooth Mountains are rugged. Stanley is incredibly picturesque, but no turnoffs to take photos.
I’ve noticed lots of signs where people have “adopted” the highway for clean-up. In Idaho, I was interested to notice that a few sections were “adopted” by Yahweh’s 666 warning assembly.
From Stanley, I returned to Boise on the 131 mile Ponderosa Pine Scenic Byway, through gold mining country, fishing streams, Salmon-Challis National Forest, and over the Banner Summit. Just outside of Boise, I found “On the River RV Park”, another scenic spot.

To see photos from this day, please click on this link: July 9

Thursday, July 10

I found the Visitor Center in historic downtown Boise, but the shopkeeper with the key had not shown up and the volunteer staffer was waiting patiently outside on a bench. I got some quick advice from her and headed to the Lonely Planet recommended espresso shop for my latte. Pretty town, lots of bicycles, but lots of smokers.
Headed northwest up the 112 mile Payette River Scenic Byway to McCall, passing through the Boise and Payette National Forests. Lots of whitewater river rafting. Had a rare meal out in an Italian restaurant in McCall on Lake Payette (chicken fettuccini). Still plenty of time to get further north, so I took the highway to connect to the Northwest Passage Scenic Byway at Grangeville heading for Lewiston. As I was emerging from the Clearwater Canyon, I noticed that the air was smokey and I figured that the California forest fire smoke was reaching this far. As I drove on the highway to Lewsiston, the road was blocked by the hiway patrol and I had to make a U-turn and head back the way I’d come. They were having their own fires. It was a huge grass fire, but completely out by the time I returned through the next morning.
I drove back to Orofino where I stayed RIGHT on the Clearwater River. I could listen to it rushing by as I slept.

To see the photos from this day, please click on this: July 10

Friday, July 11

On the way to Lewiston, I stopped at the Nez Perce National Historic Park. I didn’t know much about them, but I’d been passing lots of historic markers on my drive, yesterday. Where they lived, where they battled, etc. There was lots of information at the Visitor’s Center including a video and a museum. They were expert beaders, and wore beautiful clothing. It seems to me that the stereotype “Indian” look is theirs. Feathered bonnet with a train, buckskin beaded clothing. Very interesting. They have a big casino and hotel near where the fire was last night.
I searched Lewiston for my latte, but part of the tiny historic downtown was blocked off for road construction, and I was diverted onto a road that led to a bridge which whisked me over to Clarkston in Washington! I only then realized that the names, Lewiston and Clarkston, were, of course, for the explorers, Lewis and Clark. This is their territory. They met with the Nez Perce and got along quite well. (It was the later gold miners that caused the US to take over their lands.) Clarkston had NO coffee, so back over the bridge and I found a sidewalk espresso stand right in front of the old restored town theater. They give ghost tours in this town and the theater is included. They found old playbills and autographs under the stage including Luis Armstrong and the Andrews Sisters. I really needed my coffee by now, and the delightful owner gave me an extra shot “on the house”. On the way out of Lewiston, heading north, I stopped at an overlook and looked down on the sprawling Idaho/Washington border.
I traveled the White Pine Scenic Byway with a side trip out from St. Marie’s on the St. Joe River Scenic Byway. Mixture of small farming towns, rugged mountains, full rushing rivers. There were signs, saying that the Cutthroat Trout are “catch and release” only. Lots of men wish long fishing poles and hip boots on the St. Joe. Further out, the river gets shallower and is so clear they say you can see the fish swimming in it. I don’t think my eyes are good enough.
I misunderstood the travel dates of my friends, Joe and Dolly, who live on Lake Coeur d’Alene. They are not returning until Sunday morning. The campgrounds that they recommended near them were full, so I wandered on and found a wonderful spot on a lake just outside of Coeur d’Alene. There is an Osprey nest nearby and a one-mile long bicycle path that begins just outside the park. The friendly managers made me feel quite at home and I decided to take a day of R&R tomorrow and spend a second night right here.

To see the photos from this day, please click on this: July 11

Saturday ,July 12

After I did laundry and updated the blog, there was still time for a scenic drive around Lake Coeur d’Alene. The lake was formed when a glacier (a zillion years ago), blocked off a river and flooded the valley. The shape is like “finger lakes”. They say that the lake is 50 square miles, 32 miles long and depth: unknown. It is a setting like Lake Tahoe was in the ’50′s before it got casinos and malls. There are homes along the banks, but few towns. The lake was full of water sports: motor boats with water skiers, a few jet skis, fishing, swimming off small piers, etc. A well used body of water.

To see the photos from this day, please click on this: July 12

Sunday, July 13

Picked up my coffee and headed to Joe and Dolly’s house which is in Heyburn State Park, right near the edge of the lake where there is a paved bicycle path that goes for miles and miles. I rode with Dolly for a short bit, and got my courage up to try again soon. There home is wonderful. Cozy, cabin-like with period furniture and knotty pine walls. They are very lucky to be spending 6-months a year here and the other 6-months in Yelapa. They deserve it after running Bodine’s Steak House in Carson City (7 days a week) for so many years. We developed a plan for me to pick up our friend Magui who will be staying with her son in Sandpoint, Idaho, in August, and bring her down to Joe and Dolly’s for a longer visit in August, on my way back from Canada. I will change the order of states and put Canada before Montana, and it will work. So it wasn’t as hard to leave them after such a short visit today, to head for the Barton ranch in North Fork, Idaho, on the Salmon River.
I had to drive into Montana to find a route south to where I wanted to go. David Barton, an old friend from Berkeley real estate, had advised me to make a side trip to visit the Nez Perce battleground, Big Hole, on the way to is ranch. He thought that especially since I had visited the Nez Perce Historic Park near Lewiston, I would appreciate actually being on the site. So, I made it all the way there, but after closing, so I spent the night in the May Creek Campground of Beaverhead National Forest, a couple of miles from the ranger station of the Battleground.

To see the photos from this day, please click on: July 13

Monday, July 14

Was at the ranger station bright and early. The back of the building is mostly glass, looking right out on the battleground, literally in their backyard. Where the Nez Perce were sleeping in their camp, they have put up the framework of about 80 tipis, to give one a sense of just how it might have looked. The landscape is still just as it was then and one can see the cluster of trees where the soldiers hid. It’s a horrible story, just as most of the Indian battles were in those days when the gold rush brought greedy “white men” who wanted the Indian land where the gold had been found and wanted the Indians to move into distant reservations, despite the earlier promises and treaties giving them rights to small parts of their original homeland. They had a couple of videos at the ranger station, and I cried.
I was able to get to the ranch of Maureen and David at about noon. I was excited to meet their 9 week old baby, Meghan, and get the tour of the ranch, the log house, the log office (David is still a loan broker for his California clients), the barn with 3 horses, the 3 springs with pure pure water, and meet the 2 dogs and 4 cats. David is living his dream and I am very proud of him and what he has accomplished. Maureen created a feast for us to eat outside on the deck under the stars (screened in from mosquitos!)

To see the photos from this day, please click on: July 14

Tuesday, July 15

Maureen made wonderful coffee and it was hard to tear myself away. But, I had places to go!
I stopped off at the Sacajawea Interpretive Center in Lemhi Valley. She was the Agaidika Shoshone Indian who accompanied and translated for Lewis and Clark’s expedition, and this area was her homeland. Learned a lot more than I ever knew about her before. Then, I followed the Sacajawea Historic Byway all the way down to hiway 15 near Idaho City. Then I took parts of other scenic routes, and traveled through the old Harriman estate and saw the upper and lower Mesa Falls, skirted the Grant Tetons on the Idaho side, drove the edge o the beautiful Palisades Resevoir, dipped into Wyoming for a minute before ending up just outside of Soda Springs, at the historic town of Henry for the night.

To see photos for this day, please click on: July 15

Wednesday, July 16

Found my latte in a place in Soda Springs called Off the Trax, just adjacent to train tracks. I recommend it. Watched the geyser perform. They were digging a well to get water for a swimming pool and hit the geyser! The US asked them to cap it when it began to disturb the performance of Old Faithful! So, they just let it go once an hour. I want to refine my statement about the hot spot under Yellowstone moving east. It turns out that the bedrock, of I guess the continental plate, is traveling west and the hot spot is staying put. I think this is an example of the Theory of Relativity, but nevertheless, I do want to report accurately…
Off to cover more scenic hiways and I traveled through farmlands south all the way to Logan, Utah, before turning northeast to circle Bear Lake and end up in Montpelier before crossing over into Wyoming.
First stop in Wyoming was Fossil Bute National Monument at Fossil Lake. Tons of very complete and detailed fossils found in a thin layer of old compressed lake bed from millions of years ago, when much of the area was under water. The rock formations in the area from there on east are very interesting. Wanted to get as close as I could to Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area for the night, but my engine light began to flash and I pulled into a 24-hour garage at Little America, a very weird place. The mechanic said to drive slowly and take it to a Ford Dealer in Rock Springs in the morning.
So, I bunked down at a KOA Kampground for the night. Fingers Crossed.

To see photos from this day, please click on: July 16

Thursday, July 17

The best news about the van. Derek at Sweetwater Ford told me there was nothing wrong, but that the computer in the van had a program glitch that gave a false message. He updated the program and sent me on my way.
First on my list was Flaming Gorge National Recreational Area. It’s a close to 200 mile loop south from hiway 80 that dips down into Utah. It’s interesting for geology and historical sites as well as the huge resevoir that is created from the dam. I had time to tour the Swett family homestead and its restored log cabins as well as take a geological loop through some beautiful small canyons.
My niece, Lori, is staying with her fiance, Josh, just outside of Cheyenne this month, and we had arranged a visit. I put my route through the Medicine Bow National Forest and drove from Saratoga Hot Springs into Laramie through Snowy Pass and by mountain lakes. Beautiful scenery. My GPS got me right through to the final dirt road going to Josh’s late that night. We popped my bottle of Schramsberg that Laura had given me to toast the newly engaged couple!

To see the photos from this day, please click on: July 17

Friday, July 18

Josh and Lori offered me hospitality and the use of the washer/dryer and PC computer. I was able to do a lot of work with the photos on the blog. With a PC it’s easy to set up the connection to Picasa with a hot link. I went back and edited all of the photo connections and was very happy. I began to download my photos from my Mac onto CD’s so that I can also upload then onto the blog quickly. I didn’t get very far on that project.
Lori and I drove into Cheyenne looking for a car wash that she thought would wash my van for me. It turns out I’m too tall for their bays, and I wasn’t dressed for the do-it-yourself car wash, so I remain a dirty van.
We stopped at a post office to get me supplies, and then met Josh for a Mexican lunch at the airport. Josh gave me a tour of old historic Cheyenne, the capitol building and the old Depot. We even stopped at the Cowgirl Museum and Gift Shop. Josh then took off to pick up his father and step-mother at the Denver airport, while Lori and I returned to the house to finish laundry and work on the computer.
It’s Frontier Days celebration in Cheyenne this week and the town is crowded with cowboys and there are special activities going on everywhere with rodeo events and parades daily. We all went out to dinner at the Bunkhouse where the walls are hung with cowboy mementos. We had prime rib, baked potatoes, local beer and a cowboy band played while the locals (including Lori and Josh) danced. I got a real taste of the “west” and loved it.

To see photos from this day, please click on: July 18

Saturday, July 19

Time to hit the road again and head north to Old Fort Laramie and Devils Tower National Monument up in the north east corner of the state.
I think I knew that I would not be able to access internet for awhile when I wrote that on Saturday morning before I left Cheyenne. I’m now catching up with a week’s worth of travel now that I’m finally “connected”.
I drove north on the back roads to Old Fort Laramie. It’s located out in the middle of nowhere, now, but at one time it was on the Oregon Trail and many others. Not too many of the buildings have been preserved, but there is a taped tour that you can listen to through earphones as you wander all over the site. It was evocative.
Afterwards, I visited a spot on the Oregon train where the continuous file of wagon wheels wore a rut into a large stone area that was part of the trail. I stood on and touched the “rut”. Also in the same general area was a campground for the pioneers where many wrote their names. Found some from the 1800′s. Didn’t find N.D. Hill.
Got as far as Gillette, Wyoming, where I was able to connect with my old friend, Doug and his traveling buddy, for a fantastic prime rib dinner. They were in town for the BMW motorcycle convention. Across from my RV park was a huge convention center where they had opened up the parking lots for “campgrounds”. Hundreds of tents alongside hundreds of bikes!

To see photos from this day, please click on this: July 19

Sunday, July 20

Made it to Devil’s Tower and many of the scenic drives in the area. What an “awesome” sight. I hiked all the way around the tower and took photos from every perspective. There were climbers scaling this huge piece of rock. See if you can see them in the photos.
Made it all the way to Buffalo (deliberately passed back through Gillette to refill my gas tank at $3.75 a gallon). I really liked the little town of Buffalo. Stayed in the Deer Park RV grounds. Woke up to see adorable white-tail deer munching grass just outside my “bedroom” window. Very old town with a pretty historica downtown area. Conferred with the Park owners and chamber of commerce lady about my route to Yellowstone. Too many choices.

To see photos from this day, click on: July 20

Monday, July 21

Wandered all over the place to get to Cody, Wyoming, the gateway to Yellowstone. Some really picturesque roads, but some rough terrain that I regret. Glad I picked up more than one map, since I’ve marked up two already with my routes and revisions. Cody is a “western” town with lots of activities, but I was too exhausted to do anything but go to sleep. And, I wanted to have a very early start on the road to Yellowstone in the morning.

To see the photos from this day, please click on: July 21

Tuesday, July 22 and Wednesday, July 23

Drove the Chief Joseph Scenic Hiway into the northern entrance to Yellowstone. It was a gorgeous drive.
Yellowstone is really big. There is a scenic drive that is in the shape of a figure eight. The sights are thermal activity (geysers, pools, springs, terraces, fountains, etc.) (all of them colorful from different mineral deposits), wildlife (buffalo/bison, coyotes, bears, elk, deer, etc.) (I didn’t see wolves or moose), waterways (lakes, waterfalls, creeks, trout fishing rivers, etc.) and scattered visitor centers with educational programs, videos, rangers, etc. There are lots of camp grounds, lodges, restaurants, shops, ice cream, etc . (got advice about the ice cream from my friend, Julie, who used to work summers at Yellowstone) I stayed two nights at the Fishing Bridge RV park in the middle of Yellowstone. Saw EVERYTHING… (Old Faithful twice!), and hiked around many of the geyser areas. Yellowstone Lake is huge and beautiful.
Remember that under this area is where the “hot spot” currently resides. I reviewed the route it’s traveled from southeastern Oregon, and believe it’s headed for Wisconsin and the Great Lakes, so New York is safe, after all!

To see photos from Yellowstone, please click on: July 22 and July 23

Thursday, July 24

Got an early start to Tetons National Park. Stunning jagged mountains. Long range. Snow capped. Formed by a collision between two plates millions of years ago, and continuing today. Part goes up and part goes down from where the land originally touched. Jackson Hole is the “down” part and the Tetons is the “up” part. No foothills, just a sudden rise.
I had a bit of a struggle today. First, finding a place to spend the night that didn’t cost a fortune. The place that was charging $60 for a hook-up spot said, “well, this is Jackson Hole” So I’m just out of town for $25 per night and really nice people. The other problem is that my refrigerator is on the blink. Food spoiled. Having to eat poorly in restaurants. Found a repair guy who will see me tomorrow. Fingers crossed.
So, after all the fuss, it was afternoon and a haze had come up. Lousy views of the gorgeous mountains that I had glimpsed on my way down this morning. So, early to bed, alarm set for 6am, I did a kind of practice drive this afternoon. Places to take photos, places with interesting views, places to hike. We’ll see how it goes.

To see photos from this day, please click on:July 24

Friday, July 25
I got my early start and got photos of the Tetons from all angles before the haze came in. I must have hiked 7 miles, through woods, around lakes, everywhere! There was even a lake that mirrored the mountains and an artist camped at its edge painting it as I took my photo!
Bad news: I met with an RV mechanic to look at the fridge and he said, “It’s blew up”. It should be covered by warranty from Dometic, but I’ll have to find a dealer who can order parts and then be located somewhere that I can return to when it’s time to do the work. I have used the phone and the internet and found a dealer near Glacier National Forest in Montana who I think also could work on the satellite dome. If I can work out a calendar with them, I can do my Canada trip while the parts are being delivered and come back for the work. Unfortunately, it’s Friday after 5pm and I’m many hours away from Kalispell, Montana, where the dealer is located.

To see photos from this day, please click on: July 25

Saturday, July 26

Tried to choose a direct route today so that I could try to reach Kalispell for the night. On the way to Missoula I was able to speak with the service department of Gardner’s RV and make an appointment for Monday morning at 10am. The suspense is killing me.
I stopped in Missoula, a college town, for dinner in a little bistro in a restored historic building adjacent to the river. Faculty couple at the next table. Waitress had bear paw tattoos on her legs. (I want my refrigerator back, so that I don’t have to eat in restaurants!)
Made it to Kalispell, checked into an RV park next to a river.
Read up on Glacier National Park and think I can spend the day tomorrow driving the To the Sun Hiway.

Sunday, July 27
Glacier National Park.  I took the requisite drive up Road to the Sun. Amazing engineering from the 30′s.  Hairpin turns, glaciers at every direction. Stunning.

To see photos from this day, please click on: Jul 27

Monday, July 28
Left fridge at dealer in Kalispell. Will pick it up repaired (under warranty) on August 14. Drove to Spokane, spent the night at Cousin Nancy’s. Out to dinner with Uncle Bill Pemberton, Nancy and Nancy’s significant “other”, Jack. Wonderful guy.

To see the photo from our family dinner, please click on: July 28

Tuesday, July 29

From Spokane, I headed for the International Selkirk Loop (Thanks to the great advice from Joann Sullivan) and followed it to Nelson. There, I found El Taco, the Mexican restaurant that Justine, from Yelapa, has opened with her Dad. She joined me for lunch and gave me a list of shops where I would see a wonderful variety of local craftsmen. I ended up finding a wonderful, fanciful wooden filigreed dragon to take to little Billy, great grandson of Francis/Pancho, our deceased Yelapa friend. I dropped by the restaurant again later in order to catch a glimpse of Justine’s husband, Ruben, a Yelapan, and their kids, Matea and Laslo. I’d seen them in Yelapa in the winter, but in the short time since, had both grown a lot. Justine works in Nelson, but lives in Balfour, close to the Ferry I need to take in the morning. We agreed I would drop by for latte on my way. I found an RV park just outside of Balfour, nicely located on the river. Spent the end of the day, sitting by the dock, watching the boats and the ducks. Nice.

To see photos from this day, please click on: July 29

Wednesday, July 30

Was awakened at 5:30 in the morning with huge explosions of thunder. I wondered if this was going to be a day in bed! When I reawakened at 7am, there were blue skies. I was told later that Kootney Lake area is one of those places where, if you don’t like the weather, wait 10 minutes and it will change. Proved true.
I called Justine, and they had been up with the baby, Laslo, since the thunder woke him up. I dropped by for latte, got some good photos of the family and the house and gardens. They live walking distance from the Ferry, so I caught the second ferry of the morning.
The Kootney Lake Ferry is the longest FREE ferry in Canada. It was an adventure to go aboard with the van. They have to check that all propane is turned off and even seal the opening. They let you get out of your vehicle and everyone just sort of stands around and gabs. I made 5 new friends on the ride! One woman wanted to tour my van on behalf of a friend who was thinking of doing something like I am. My favorite, was an old Canadian hippy named Willow who told me all about her trip to Alaska. She told me to visit Dawson City and nearby Chicken. The founders had wanted to name it Ptarmigan, but no one knew how to spell it!
Once on the other side, I drove through Riorden where Don Tambor is now living (but out of town) and Crawford Bay (where Angus and Cedar live, but weren’t home). Crawford Bay is a town full of artists and artisans, so I hung around there. I had a latte in an art gallery, visited a weaving shop and couldn’t leave without buying something, and then did laundry at a local lodge.
I’d checked in with Filippo in nearby Boswell, where he is staying at Kent’s, a Yelapa friend. He expected me late afternoon, and when I arrived he was hard at work painting some wonderful Kootney Lake scenes. He’s been prolific over the summer. We debated our evening plans, but ended up visiting Sirdan’s Pub where Eddie Owl, from Yelapa, entertained us with his songs. I was also able to visit with Hotel Jack’s son, Bryan, a great musician in his own right. At the last minute, I heard from Angus, who had been in Vancouver. He had just returned and his daughter was with him for two days, and they wanted family time. Bad timing for a get-together with Angus.
I’d found a place to plug-in the van in Boswell, on a farm complete with 2 horses, 1 pony, 2 cats, a turkey and goats. There was a couple tent camping and me. Quaint.

To see photos from this day, please click on: July 30

Thursday, July 31

First thing on the agenda today was to visit the “glass house” in Boswell. It is actually made out of embalming bottles. Really. The builder was an embalmer, who always wanted to build a house with the bottles, and with the help of his embalmer friends, saved up zillions of bottles. It’s right on the shore in a beautiful setting. He’s now long dead, and his son has taken over the business of showing the house. It is full of photos and authentic furnishings and gnomes statuary. See the photos.
No cell-phone reception, so I headed for the “big city” of Creston. On the way, I passed a sign about a ”Pick Your Own” raspberry farm. I followed the signs and found a lovely setting. Raspberries are my favorite berry, so I was looking forward to having my fill. The owner’s wife accompanied me and philosophized while she dropped more berries in my pail. I ended up with a huge amount and was able to share with those I met all day long!
When I got to Creston, I found a couple of voicemails on my phone. One from the dealer with my refrigerator who was having problems with Dometic honoring the warranty. I needed to find documentation of my ownership history, the van history, and the refrigerator history, make copies and FAX them to Montana. I was able to find very helpful people at an employment office who were generous with their machines and were rewarded with berries! There was also a message from Marianne who had been offered a chance to go out fishing with a friend and wanted to postpone our dinner until Friday. I needed to get on the road, so I settled for a few minutes visit before her fishing trip, and got a chance to see their house, give Billy his gift and take some photos.
I wrapped up my time in Creston with a leisurely pedicure and an early night at Scottie’s RV park. Scottie, himself, complete with brogue, checked me in.

To see photos from this day, please click on: July 31

Friday, August 1

Before I left Creston, I stopped to shop and hit the ATM. Lovely grocery store where on impulse, I bought a rice cooker. Anticipating the return of refrigeration and cooking in the van.
Took the recommended scenic route to Fairmont Hot Springs, on the road to Jasper National Park. Stopped at a fruit stand on the way and found that it was Cherry harvest-time. They let me use their sink and I washed 4 pounds of cherries, a box of blueberries and a ripe beefsteak tomato. They also had a bakery and I got a whole wheat roll and a couple of blueberry/bran muffins. (With that, I had my meals covered for 2 days!) I had been told that Radium Hot Springs was actually a nicer place, but when I called, all the RV parks were already full for the 3-day weekend. I was lucky to find something in Fairmont, although, when I arrived, I found that I didn’t have the energy to go discovering the springs. I just crashed for the night in the van.

To see photos from this day, please click on: August 1

Saturday, August 2

Got up really early for a head start on the drive to Jasper National Park. To get there, I needed to enter the park system at Banff and drive all the way up north to Jasper Township. I will eventually retrace my steps south at a leisurely pace. There is really only one road going north/south.
First stop was the RV park with 781 sites. I couldn’t believe that it was full. The only other alternative was Wapiti, which everyone kept saying was like one big parking lot. They all thought I would prefer a pretty campground with no electrical or showers and only a dry toilet, to such a sterile spot. When I checked into Wapiti, the gal at the check-in even pulled out a photo of the “parking lot”. Apparently, otherwise, people check-in and then return to check out once they’ve seen the set up. If I were a family who make a barbeque and sit around the campfire all night, I might care more about my surroundings. I love it when I can settle down next to a river, but basically when I get home, I pull my curtains, play a game of sudoku, and fall asleep! The whole park was actually surrounded by beautiful mountains and glaciers. Recharging my camera and taking a morning shower was more important to me.
I arrived at the Visitor Center late afternoon, but there was still time to take the Jasper Tramway to the top of Whistlers Mountain and get an eagle’s-eye lookout over the eastern Rockies. From there I drove out north of Jasper and then followed a 10 mile windy road up to Miette Hot Springs, the hottest natural mineral springs in the Rockies. Nice hot soak and home to bed.

To see photos from this day, please click on: August 2

Sunday, August 3

Had a good sleep in the “parking lot”. Found my latte at Coco’s in Jasper Township. Stopped in at the Jasper Museum. Started off for Maligne Canyon, but took a wrong turn and out of curiosity, visited two lovely lakes, Pyramid and Patricia. Pyramid has a bridge connecting to a tiny Pyramid Island. While taking a walk around the island, I ran into the gal from the RV park who checked me in. She recognized me and we stopped to talk. She is working at the park for the summer, and takes regular bike rides and so had lots of advice about places worth seeing. She also has visited Alaska and was the second person to recommend Dawson City.
I returned to the Maligne road and drove all the way out to the Lake. There were Prong Horned Sheep milling around along the way. Photos. I also passed Medicine Lake. It was a mystery to the Indians, but they know now, that the Maligne River pours water into it, but the way the water leaves it is to go underground for ten miles before it resurfaces. The Indians thought it was witchcraft.
There is a concession that offers 90 minute boat rides the length of Lake Maligne, so I took advantage of the opportunity and took the tour which included a stop at the scenic, oft photographed Spirit Island. This is the lake that Mary Shaffer wrote about and made known. There was even a “Mary Shaffer” hike around the lake that I didn’t want to miss. I got so interested in her, that I bought the book, “A Hunter of Peace” with her accounts of early 1900 explorations of the Canadian Rockies following old Indian trails on horse back. What a woman!
I headed back to town because I had seen the movie featured tonight was Mamma Mia! The musical with Merryl Streep. There were titters in the audience when Pierce Brosnan sang, but I was in the mood for exactly such a movie, and loved it!

To see photos from this day, please click on: August 3

Monday, August 4

Final day in Jasper. Began with a scrambled egg breakfast and latte at Coco’s, and then headed out on the Icefields Parkway. The other woman honored in the park is Edith Cavell, a heroic English nurse in World War I. There is a mountain and lake named after her. I followed the advice I’d been given to get an early start to the popular sights, and found it really true at Mt Edith Cavell. First their was a windy 12 mile potholed road that climbs and climbs and then suddenly opens to a vista of mountains and glaciers. It was so much better with no other traffic. At the end of the road there is parking and trails leading to meadows, a small lake and a view of Angel Glacier with wings spread. It was refreshing, exhilarating and very personal. As I left, I found the parking lot crowded and on the way down, a regular stream of traffic coming up. I lucked out.
I continued on the 64 mile long stretch of the Parkway, stopping at all the scenic spots until I reached Icefields Centre and the Athabasca Glacier where I took a 90 minute “Snocoach” ride up onto the glacier itself. We walked around (carefully) and drank from the melting ice.
It was getting late, so I hurried on to Lake Louise from there, hoping to get a place at the RV park. I thought that since the 3-day weekend holiday was over, I would find the parks deserted, but no such luck. I was turned away and sent off to a campground, which was scenic but had no electricity, flush toilets or showers. In consolation, I treated myself to a grand dinner of Caesar Salad and pan fried halibut at Baker Lodge on Highway IA. This is an old hiway without much traffic and I discovered that it is popular with bears. On the way home, I finally got to see my bears!

To see photos from this day, please click on: August 4

Tuesday, August 5

Slept poorly, guess it was the big meal before bed last night. Got up late and headed for the RV park where I checked in for tonight and took advantage of the showers to clean up. The agenda for the day began with a Latte “to go” from the Lake Louise Village. I took it with me to visit Lake Louise, a glacier fed lake of a very pale blue color. I believe that my parents spent their honeymoon in Banff and Lake Louise (I need my brothers to help me with my memory). It’s a really beautiful setting, with the glacier funneling right down into the Lake. I took a lakeside hike and had my cereal and banana right down on the shore.
Second stop was nearby Lake Moraine. Moraine is the name of the rocks in the valley that are left after the glacier retreats. This lake has less glacier silt and so is much darker blue in color. At one end is a pile of rocks, either left by the glacier or some later avalanche. Another hike half way around the lake and a stop in the gift shop.
Because of the bear viewing, I’ve been feeling something special for them and looked for some kind of memento. I settled on a tiny stuffed bear that will accompany my other “totems” on the shelf. They began with the Bowling Barbie from Diana, then the crystal from Candace “to remind me of Berkeley”, the “special” rock from Nancy, the budda from Barbara, the little animal from Marcy, and the dream catcher from Laura. To them, I’ve added the little alien from the Extraterrestrial Hiway in Nevada, the Kokopelli doll I chose in New Mexico and now the bear to commemorate the half dozen bears I’ve been able to watch munching berries these past two days. I wished and wished to see bears close up, and here they have been. I thank my friend, Julie, whose best Yellowstone advice was, “If you see a bunch of people parked on the side of the road, STOP, because they are probably watching wildlife.” It’s sooo true.
Next, I visited the Lake Louise Visitor Center and got a couple more stamps for my “passport”, and headed off for the Gondola ride. In the winter, the park is popular for skiing. During the summer, the chair lifts make a great scenic ride. So, up to the top I went and got fabulous shots of Lake Louise with her glacier catching the rays of the sun.
I wrapped up the day with a few more scenic spots on the Icefields Parkway and a futile hunt for bear, and home to the computer. Got internet reception, so caught up on the blog (although, without proof-reading). Still can’t put up photos until I can borrow a PC for a few hours. Have faith, there will be great photos coming. (Just had a thought. I’ve been considering flying to San Francisco to attend the Yelapa reunion on August 17th in Santa Cruz. If I did that, I could take an extra day, spend it with my lap top PC in Berkeley and put up all the photos! Must look into the airfares from Montana. Anyone want to meet me for lattes in Berkeley that weekend?)

To see photos from this day, please click on: August 5

Wednesday, August 6

Got an early start on the road south to Banff. I drove Highway 1A and rarely saw another car. It was great. The glaciers have disappeared, but the craggy mounts left behind are dramatic. Banff seems like a very English town, with old stone catle-like buildings. There are tons of lodges, B&B’s, Inns, Chalet’s, etc. (Canadian for hotels and motels) I checked into the Tunnel Mountain RV park for two nights and once again have internet.
Went by the Visitor Center and made a plan. I began with Lake Minnewanka. It was doubled in size by a series of dams, so isn’t really the natural glacier fed lake I’ve been seeing. But, it’s very scenic, had a good hike around lakeside and I also took a boat ride out to its edges. Saw lots of prong-horned sheep today and a few elk.
I went back into town to visit Bow Falls where I sat down and relaxed for awhile. I also walked through the Cascade Gardens (the plantings reminded me of my own Mother’s flower gardens…petunias, pansies, geraniums, zinnias, cosmos, begonias, etc.) and also dropped by Cave Basin National site where the original hot springs were discovered, but they were about to close for the day and I only took a quick peek into the cave. I felt really tired, and decided to have a late lunch and call it a day. I have all day tomorrow to sight-see and there really isn’t too much more to do other than take some hikes (and shop, if I were into that).
Great news from Woodland where I spent the formative years from 6th grade through 10th grade. The daughter of a girlfriend from 6th grade has qualified for the Olympics. Please cross fingers on August 15th when Jill Camarena will be in the preliminary women’s shot put contest. And hopefully also in the finals on the 16th. Her Mother, Marilyn, will be there to watch her. I’ve never had someone to root for in the Olympics. Wouldn’t it be amazing if she got a gold medal?
A new van crisis has developed. My windshield was hit by a small rock and now there is a crack developing rapidly. I’m hoping that it will wait for the 14th when I’m in Kalispell getting work done. I need to do a bit of research and set up an appointment. Will super glue help?

To see photos from this day, please click on: August 6

Thursday, August 7

Explored the town of Banff, determined to get some good photos of the old Hotel. (Wonder if my parents stopped here for a drink on their Honeymoon) Took a small hike to view the Hoodoos just outside of town, near my campgrounds. Visited the site of the old bathhouse and took a guided tour to learn the history. Another case of someone stumbling on a natural wonder (hot springs) and trying to make some money on it. The government eventually taking it over and making a national park out of it.
Then, yet another gondola ride up the mountain to enjoy the scenis overlook and a 360 degree view.
More wildlife on the way home.

To see photos from this day, please click on: August 7

Friday, August 8

Canada’s cowboy territory. Visited the Bar U ranch, were they bred a special kind of horse that eventually was required for all fire departments in the US. It has been restored to the way it would have been at the turn of the century. The bunk house, camp, etc. And the register showing that the Sundance Kid once worked there! Finished up with a visit to Head-Smashed-In, the oddly named setting of a Buffalo Run. It’s one of the locations where Indians (before they had horses to hunt with) would channel a herd of buffalo over a cliff in order to get a winter’s harvest in one shot. The museum had a very realistic film.
Made it to Waterton Park so late that all the electric sites were taken. Camped out in an adjacent field (overflow parking?).

For photos from this day, please click on: August 8

Saturday, August 9

Waterton is the Canadian side of Glacier Park. The name of the entire park is Waterton-Glacier National Peace Park. Saw another wonderful historic lodge and then…..Bears! Brown/black bears with their playful babies eating berries. I loved it.
I drove over the border to see the part of Glacier that I had missed called Many Glacier ….. and, Grizzlies! I almost cried.
Headed west and on the way, I drove past a town that a coal mine collapsed on.
Spent the night in Cranbrook.

To see photos from this day, please click on:  August 9

Sunday, August 10

Time to head back to the USA. Headed to Sandpoint where Magui (from Yelapa) is spending the month with her son, Andre, and his wonderful family. Their house is on the water and in a setting to rival the parks I’ve been visiting! We all went out to dinner, heard Magui’s favorite musicians and, connected to their electrical, I settled in for the night.

To see photos from this day, please click:  August 10

Monday, August 11

Magui and I got an early start on our visit to Joe and Dolly who live in a State Park adjacent to Lake Coeur d’Alene.
They are a wonderful couple, friends from Yelapa and incredilble hosts. We sat on the deck in the woods, ate, drank, smoked, gabbed and before we knew it, it was bedtime.

To see the photos from this day, please click: August 11

Tuesday, August 12

I suggested taking us out to lunch and Joe suggested getting to the restaurant across the Lake by boat! On the way back, he anchored and we swam. More eating and drinking and another day has slipped by.

To see photos from this day, click on: August 12

Wednesday, August 13

Time to take Mague back to Sandpoint and me to get to Kalispell, Montana, where my new fridge awaits. Spent the night in nearby Lakeside.

No photos from this day

Thursday, August 14

Drove into Kalispell and visited the same drive-thru coffee hut for my latte. The young girl asked how my travels had been. She remembered me (or the van) from 2 weeks earlier. She’s GOOD!
Had my fridge and windshield installed and took off for Billings. Big drive. Checked into Yellowstone River RV Park. Slept like a log.

Friday, August 15

Checked e-mail and found one from Nina Grand who is hosting a tour to India in January that will focus on Textiles. I immediately checked with Geline to see if I could afford it and sent word to sign me up!
Flew to SFO, rented a car and headed for Cesar’s! Called Colleen on the way, and she and Gracie met me there for drinks. Also ran into the usual cast of characters, all shocked to see me, of course.
I made it to the Friday night dinner and told my stories to Izzy, Tom, and Mary Lee.
When I saw my tenants, we discussed the fact that they are moving out on November 1. They are doing their post docs at Oxford, England. Congratulations! They will be very difficult to replace. I’m going to have to figure out how to advertise and when to return to Berkeley to choose new tenants.

Saturday, August 16

Met with Geline at 9am. Took care of business matters and walked over to Peet’s Coffee on Tele for my latte.
Spent the rest of the day on the blog photos, and didn’t make a dent!
Dinner with Frank and Linda. Champagne, baked crab appetizer and gorgeous lamb chops and ribs from the barbeque. Frank and Linda have been to India and gave me lots of advice.

Sunday, August 17

Work some more on the photos. Have no idea what to wear to the reunion because of the really weird weather. Scoot over to John and Danuta’s for coffee and am also served some delicious Polish apple crepes.
Drive to Frederick’s Park in Santa Cruz and meet “everyone” from Yelapa. I tried to get a photo of everyone I knew, but don’t think I quite succeeded. It was a great day with great food including a 70th birthday cake for Harvey. I left early evening as the guitars were coming out and the local group was settling in for the night.
I stopped off in Half-Moon Bay to have dinner and a visit with Lloyd and Justine. Champagne and wonderful chili. Justine and I talked about our Antarctica Trip coming up in 2010!
Got home and worked on the photos until I was dead on my feet.

Here are the photos!  click on: Yelapa Reunion

Monday, August 18

As soon as I woke up, I went back to working on the photos. I only took time to bathe, dress and pack. Then I headed for the office to have coffee with Marilyn and Mary at the French Hotel. We sat outside at the sidewalk table and as Mary said, we so often envy the women sitting and having coffee there, since we are always rushing by on the way to an appointment, or something. It was especially fun to be the ones taking it easy for a change. I showed Marilyn the blog photos, but couldn’t show her the bear picture, since I hadn’t gotten it up. So, I went back home and got the bear photos up before heading to the airport. There was a terrible 6-car accident on the Bay Bridge and I was late to the airport. I literally ran down the hallways to get to my boarding gate, and found the flight was late. Sat down, caught my breath and hopefully composure, and flew back to Billings, Montana, and the Yellowstone River Campground, on the Yellowstone River.

Tuesday, August 19

The plan is to visit Little Bighorn Battlefield and head for North Dakota, but when I look in my Atlas, I realize that I will want to enter North Dakota in the north, not the south. There is a scenic drive and a National Monument that I want to see. If I am going to go north, then before I leave Montana, I want to see Bear Paw Battlefield up north, where Chief Joseph surrendered, the final step in the Nez Perce saga.
I also find out that there is a National Monument called Pompeys Pillar near Little Big Horn. I check it out and find that it is a spot where Indians left pictographs and Clark of Lewis and Clark signed his autograph and date. He is the one who named the rock Pompey’s after Sacajawea’s infant son, Jean Baptiste, who Clark nicknamed Pomp. So, I went, but forgot to take my camera. I bought a postcard with a photo of the signature.
Then to Little Big Horn. It was very hot (in the 90’s) under the sun, and so I took the tour in a small airconditioned bus. It was run by the Crow Indians. (I’d hoped that I was going to hear the story of the battle from the Indian’s point of view, especially once I realized that the battlefield is in the middle of an Indian reservation!) It was very interesting. In 1890 the army put up markers where every soldier fell. In 1999 the National Park Service began erecting red granite markers at known Cheyenne and Lakota warrior casualty sites. I think the Indians are finally getting their side of the story told, and when I hear it, it’s usually quite shocking and depressing, and leaves me angry. At this battlefield, the Indians won, and they tell the stories with a little humor.
I headed north, and every time I looked on the map, I saw something else that I thought I might include on this route. So, I ended up heading back west before going north. Montana is very big. I only reached White Sulphur Springs by nightfall. Not even half-way. Oops.

To see photos from this day, please click on: August 19

Wednesday, August 20

I really tried to leave Montana today. I had a slow start in the morning, drove through the Lewis and Clark National Forest and reached Great Falls by noon. First stop was the Lewis and Clark National Historic Tril Interpretive Center. A couple of films, a great interactive museum and a nature walk along the Missouri River. This is where Lewis and Clark had to “portage” their canoes and supplies overland about 17 miles uphill to avoid the “great” falls.
Next stop, Fort Benton. I tried to limit my stay, but got caught up with the Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument Interpretive Center (another Lewis and Clark site, mentioned in their diaries) The center is right on the Missouri, in a section where there are “breaks” (cliffs) and they have built their deck to resemble a steamboat, complete with “grasshopper”, a kind of pulley structure, used to lift-and-pull-forward when the ship got bogged down in shallow water.
I mentioned that I was headed next to Bear Paw Battlefield. They offered to call ahead and be sure that they would still be open. I’m used to the visitor centers having 8am-8pm hours, and hadn’t worried, but when they called, it turned out they were closing between 4:30-5:00pm. It was 3:30 and I was 2 hours away. I asked if the battlefield would still be accessible and he said, yes. Then he asked if I would like a tour. I couldn’t believe it. He had me call him as I arrived in town and then I followed him out the 15 miles to the battlefield. He told me then that it was his last day of his job, he was leaving to teach in Montana, High School Social Studies. He said that he had been disappointed that on his last day, he had not lead a tour. He was glad to end on the right note. It was a great tour, and I took lots of photos of the spots where Chief Joseph and others camped and where many died. I have become very fond of Chief Joseph as I have followed the Nez Perce Trail from Idaho to this final place of surrender. It was very moving to be standing in te same place where they fought the final battle in the snow…and only 42 miles from the Canadian border where they would have been safe. Chris, the ranger, will be a great teacher – he certainly educated and entertained me for close to 2 hours as we walked a couple of miles around the battlefield, standing in certain spots to get the view they did and the better to understand what it was like.
I left Chris to pack for his move and drove as far as I could go before it was total darkness and made it as far as Malta, Montana. A dreary town with a dumpy motel/RV park. Turned in early.

To see photos from this day, please click on: August 20

Thursday, August 21

I finally made it to North Dakota!
I didn’t sleep well in the Edgewater Motel parking lot and only partly because the train came by all night. I woke up early and was on the road shortly after 6am. Didn’t find latte for a few towns, but it was a good one. The name of the place fooled me for a minute and I almost drove on. The Hot Spot sounded too much like an Indian Casino, but it was espresso!
I really tried to drive straight across the state border, but then at about the last town, there was a visitor welcome center, and I decided that I might find a map of North Dakota there, even tho it was on the Montana side. And I did. Very helpful, friendly volunteers who helped me with the route to my first point of interest, a Fort and a Lewis and Clark stop. But, they also has a museum of furnishings, clothing, etc. from the 1800’s to about the 1940’s. I stayed an hour! It was the town of Culbertson, named after the man who, with his Indian wife, was one of the first managers of the Fort/Trading Post that I was headed for. The town is older than the state of Montana and I think that no-one has moved away and when they die, they give all their old stuff to the museum. It was packed with everything from World War II uniforms complete with a Purple Heart, a collection of irons so old that some were heated with oil, a doctor’s office, a kitchen, an office, ect. I was mesmerized. Most things had the name of the donor on them, like one dress which was the graduation dress for the validictorian of the high school in the ‘20’s, complete with the handwritten speech.
So, back on the road, followed instructions and ended up on yet another gravel road (15 miles). I bounced and bounced and ended up covered with dust, but at my destination of Fort Union National Historic Site. Begun as a fur trading center by Astor, it was for many years, a meeting place between whites and Indians where they exchanged furs for tools and luxuries, each believing that they were getting the best of the deal. Later it became a military fort. Located right on the Missouri River, it was the half-way point between Saint Louis and Fort Benton, well-located for trade. And, of course, Lewis and Clark passed by on their trip.
I also stopped in at the Center for the Confluence of the Missouri and the Yellowstone rivers and Fort Buford. The Fort is where both Sitting Bull and Chief Joseph were held as the paperwork was begun for their surrenders.
I am feeling more and more interested in both the Indian wars/Native American History and the Lewis and Clark Expedition. This is where a lot of it was happening and I’m really impressed with how accessible they make it for the traveler.
I sat down with the North Dakota map and my “scenic drive” resources and mapped out the areas of interest. I also noted the Forts and Lewis&Clark/Indian exhibits, as well as the Theodore Roosevelt National Park. I began with the Lewis and Clark Scenic Drive which follows as close as possible to the Missouri River, which they traveled from Saint Luis to it’s point of origin. I lost an hour changing to Central Time, and by mid-afternoon, I had arrived near to the location of tomorrow’s tours, in and around Bismark.. I glanced at the map, noticed a town called Riverton, located on the Missouri River near Lake Sakakawea (another spelling), and headed for the camp grounds. ($7.00 for the night with my senior card. I can look out my “bedroom” window and see the water.) No internet, but I’m writing today’s entry on Word and will transfer it later. It’s almost 9pm and I want an early bedtime. It’s nice and cool now, but earlier was very weird weather. Alternating hot sunshine and black clouds, lightning and rain! I’ve traveled south and hopefully left the storm behind.

To see photos from this day, please click on: August 21

Friday, August 22

Well, we were hit by a storm. At about 2:30 in the morning, I was awakened by thunder, rolled up my curtains and lay in bed watching a lighning show. Terrific!
The rain did wonders, and absolutely everything was glistening on the morning’s drive. I headed first for the Knife River Indian Villages National Historic Site. This is the area that Sacakawea lived when she met Lewis and Clark. They had a full-scale reconstruction of a Hidatsa earthlodge featuring authentic furnishings. I really enjoyed playing pretend, imagining that I lived in those days.
Next stop, Fort Abraham Lincoln, a State Park in Mandan. The fort is set right on the Missouri River and they have reconstructed parts of it, including the house that General and Mrs. Custer would have lived in. It is furnished with period furnishings and the tour of the house is led by an actor in authentic cavalry dress. Luckily it was a rather cool day, or else, the woolen uniform would have been quite uncomfortable.
From there, I headed west on the scenic routes towards Theodore Roosevelt National Park.
I drove and drove looking in the westward direction, and saw nothing but rather flat plains and prairie. I wondered where on earth the park would be. Then suddenly, at the last minute, I made a turn in the road and there before me was this amazing site in a canyon below me. It’s sort of like a shallow, spread out Grand Canyon. Well, except different.
I arrived just as night was falling, so I checked into an RV Park recommended by my new RV Park Guide, and settled in for the night.

To see photos from this day, please click on: August 22

Saturday, August 23

Began my tour of the North Unit of the Park. Scenic drive with short hikes. Lots of bison. Don’t think the photos does the place justice. The huge scale contributes to the “in person” thrill.
The Park is set in the town of Medora. It was founded in 1883 by Marquis de Mores and named for his wife, Medora. They became hosts to Roosevelt in the first years he visited the area. They built a huge home on the hill, the Chateau de Mores, which is open for tours.
In recent years, the town has been expanded and restored to its turn of the century style. Since 1958 there has been an outdoor musical theater performed. I decided that I shouldn’t miss the opportunity and enjoyed its patriotic kitch.
Returned late at night to the rather disappointing RV Park. Not very serene and way too crowded.

To see photos from this day, please click on: August 23

Sunday, August 24

Glad to be leaving this RV park.
Headed for the North Unit of the Park. Less popular and therefore less populated. I liked that. No town setting like Medora and so it was much more peaceful and I was able to enjoy driving and hiking. There were buffalo on the road to the visitor center. I asked if it was a daily event, and they said that it was quite rare. I enjoyed it. The “guard” buffalo just stood in the middle of the road and stared me down until all the buffalo were where they wanted to be…and then he moved out of the way. What a trip.
The landscape was similar to the south, but with more trees, I think. The hikes were posted with informative signs about the geology, plants and animals. Hot sun beating down. I felt hot and dusty myself by the end of the day.
Took a scenic drive a bit further east on the way back. Checked into the new campground that I liked a whole lot better. Met a nice couple of Canada that I’m hoping I’ll run into again in South Dakota.

To see photos from this day, please click on: August 24

Monday, August 25

Finished up in Medora with a tour of the Chateau de Mours, the original home of Medora and the Count, and also the Visitor Center at Painted Canyon, Roosevelt Park. It was overrun with buffalo/bison! There must have been 30 of them. Wonderful.
Headed east for Bismarck and another scenic drive. I decided to try to take the Steamboat diner cruise on the Missouri, but had trouble getting through on the phone to make a reservation. I went by Fort Abraham Lincoln to see about staying the night in their campground. I wanted to get my bearings since I would be arriving after dark. I set it up with the ranger.
Once I was on the scenic drive, I didn’t have cell phone reception, so when I finally was able to call the Steamboat, I found out that they were booked up, and also that they were on Mountain Time and therefore it was an hour later and I would have been late! To compensate, I decided to go to the movies! When I was in Berkeley, I’d seen an interview with Ben Stiller about his comedy, Tropical Thunder. I’d forgotten that Tom Cruise and (I forget his name, Junior) were in it, kind of in disguise. I feel like I need to see it again, just to appreciate their transformations. Amazing. I was always a fan of Ben Stiller’s parents, Stiller and Meara, in the ‘60’s, and hope for him to succeed.

To see photos from this day, please click on: August 25

Tuesday, August 26

Since I had arrived in the dark, I was very pleasantly surprised at how lovely the campground was. I took my cereal down the riverside path and ate on a bench looking at the water of the Missouri. I could really imagine what it would have been like to have been sitting there a hundred years ago.
I had planned on the final North Dakota scenic drive in the book. But, it would have entailed a very long hiway drive to get over to the eastern part of the state before making the loop drive. And, I just wasn’t in the mood for another day of non-stop driving. I shifted gears and headed back west for the hiway going south into South Dakota.

As I drove, I remembered that there had been a road sign about an “enchanted hiway”, eno with giant metal sculptures. I expected it to be Disney characters, but the one on the road was almost like an Esher, with geese flying across a huge metal frame. I impulsively took the exit before learning that it was a 36 mile drive to see all of the sculptures. Oh, well, why not? At the first one, there was an info bulletin board where I learned that the artist, a retired school principal, got the idea to promote his little town of Regent (that’s what is at the end of the 36 miles). There were copies of newspaper and magazine articles, including People Magazine. At the second statue, there was a very friendly man mowing the lawn and waving to everyone. I approached him and asked if he was the artist, and yes, he was. Gary proceeded to tell me the rest of the story. Most of the farmers in the area are welders by necessity, and traditionally make metal art when called on for mailbox signage, etc. He started with that idea and went from there. Each sculpture is a slightly different medium/style. The next one he’s planning will look like string and will be a spider web. He told me that in Regent his family has a gift shop and there is also a museum. When I told him I would be retracing my steps back to the main hiway, he took my map and charted a backroad route for me.
When I arrived in Regent, I bought postcards from Gary’s Aunt in the gift shop, had a wonderful and very long conversation with another elderly local who knew a lot about a lot, and ended up at the museum where the host was a very colorful local character who had jokes for each of the 10-15 “rooms” which have been done up in the museum. There was even Dr. Hill’s pharmacy looking like he had walked out a hundred years ago and nothing had been changed since. My host even showed me the old photos and everything was in its place (except the stuffed Bald Eagle on the wall which I’m told the government came by and took away). I was very thankful that I took that little detour to Regent, North Dakota!
The route between North and South Dakota is pretty desolate. I drove for hours through South Dakota without ever seeing a welcome center/tourist information office. Was probably all the way to the middle of the state before I found one, and it was already closed for the evening. I drove a ways further before settling into a campground somewhere between Sturgis and Rapid City.

To see photos from this day, please click on: August 26

Wednesday, August 27

Began the day with a search for a Welcome Center/Tourist Office. Decided to head further east towards Rapid City and came upon one at a Rest Stop at the side of the highway. What luck! The place wasn’t very crowded and so Pam and Gary devoted themselves for almost an hour to educating me about the area and South Dakota in general, the parks, the towns, the scenic roads, the history, the camping spots, and about a million tips. They even helped figure out where I should spend Labor Day in order to avoid the crowds on the roads, in the campsites and at the attractions. Oh, and even where to get my latte in Rapid City. I came out of there feeling very organized.
After the latte, I stopped in at the Journey Museum in Rapid City. It has wonderful exhibits on local geology as well as the Souix Indians. Hourly, there is a trolley that picks up passengers out in front and (at a cost of 50 cents for seniors) does a one hour loop around the town with narration on the history.
After all that, it was still early, and I took off for Mount Rushmore, less than an hour away. Lots of photos. It’s another case of it looking different with every change in the light. I got the taped walking tour and spent a couple of hours walking around the site listening to the whole story. There were also 3 videos, 2 information centers (One of the original workers on the statues was in the bookstore autographing his book. I couldn’t resist.), a museum, the artist’s studio, a long walkway lined with flags from all the states, a viewing platform and an outdoor amphitheater. And at 8pm there was a patriotic program and the “lighting” of the statue with white lights. I had to get a photo of that, so got my dose of patriotism for the year!
Earlier, I found out where the nearest campground was and checked in. I figured I could rough it for one night with “dry” camping, since I didn’t want to have to drive very far after the program, in the dark. Horsethief Lake Campground.

To see photos from this day, please click on: August 27

Thursday, August 28

Always lovely to wake up in a National Park. No traffic, no vendors, and the hope of a glimpse of wildlife out the window. There was a lovely grove of Aspen but only a chipmunk this morning. The disadvantage is that with the “dry” camping, I have to make do with a “sponge bath” and dirty dishes. (I can brush my teeth under the outdoor coldwater faucet.)
I have Labor Day weekend on my mind, so decided to spend the day visiting the little historic towns and miscellaneous routes through the Badlands before the anticipated crowds arrive. I began with Hill City (no relation) for my Latte and then took a scenic route called the RimRock Hiway. Enjoyable. I ended up so close to Rapid City, that I decided to go ahead and pay my visit to Sturgis and find my T-shirt. I’m sure everyone knows that Sturgis is famous for its motorcycle rallies. This year’s meet was just over and the T-shirts were half-priced! Couldn’t resist. From there I went through more back country (Nemo, Silver City, Custer) and completed more or less a loop that ended up in Custer State Park. Found a vacancy in the Lodge Park where I have my reservations for the next two nights, and set up shop. No internet reception still, but I can write up my diary entries to transfer over later.
My goal for the evening is to write blog entries, plan my next few days in South Dakota, create a nice dinner from my supplies, wash dishes and take a shower before bedtime.

To see photos from this day, please click on: August 28

Friday, August 29

Met the campground host this morning and he thinks he can find me a slot for Sunday night. That would be terrific as I don’t think I will finish with this area any earlier. The Custer State Park is full of scenery and wildlife and it is adjacent to both Jewel Cave and Wind Cave National Parks, and Rushmore and Crazy Horse Monuments. It is also just south of the historic western town of Deadwood, Sturgis, and scenic Spearfish. My location at Lodge Campground centrally located, has all the amenities and is surrounded by nature with bison and deer strolling by. There is even a lake to swim in on hot days. It’s been in the 90’s in the heat of the day.
I stopped in at the Visitor’s center across the road and made some plans. I began by driving the Wildlife loop that begins right by my camp. The buffalo were roaming and the deer and the antelope playing! There was also a Prairie Dog Town where I stopped to watch the comings and goings.
I was heading for Crazy Horse Monument. I really didn’t know much at all about this place or how long it has been in process. The Lakota elders wanted to show the world that the Indians had great leaders, too. Korczak Ziolkowski won an award at the 1939 World’s Fair for his sculpture of Paderewski, and in 1947 accepted their invitation to come to the Black Hills. The work began in 1949 and is proceeding from a model of Crazy Horse pointing forward on horseback with hair flying back. The entire set of 4 heads at Rushmore, could easily fit in just part of the head of Crazy Horse. So far, only most of the head and the length of arm are finished. The sculptor died in 1982, but he and his wife, Ruth, had 10 children, most of whom have stepped in to continue this work. Their has never been government funding for the project, which includse a Native American Cultural Center, the Indian Museum of North America, an Educational and Conference Center and eventually a University. Ruth still lives on the premises. Quite amazing.
On my return to camp, I took what’s called the Needles Hiway Scenic Drive. The pointed rock formations look like needles and one even has a hole right where it would be threaded. Mt. Rushmore was originally supposed to be carved into the needles, but there is not enough solidity in them to sculpt and so were done in a more solid granite-faced rock formation. This route has a few tunnels through the solid rock that are so small that I had to pull out my owner’s manual to figure out if I was too tall to fit through them. I think I had inches of leeway both in height and width. I drove through the first one holding my breath! (The lowest is 10’8” and as narrow as 8’7”)

To see photos from this day, please click on: August 29

Saturday, August 30, Saturday

I had made reservations for 2 tours at Jewel Cave National Monument today. A 10 am Scenic Tour and a 12;45 “lantern” or Historic Tour. Jewel Cave is the second longest known cave in the world with over 138 miles of passages. The cave was formed in an unusual way. About 30-50 million years ago, slightly acidic ground water seeped into the mountain’s faults, dissolving the surrounding limestone. In addition to the usual stalagtites and stalagmites, I saw many more unusual sights such as a room full of glittering calcite crystals. The “lantern” tour was set up to imitate a tour at the turn of the century. We shimmied through narrow passageways and I saw the crystals by the light of the lantern I carried.
On my return to the campground, I followed the Iron Mountain Road
with more low tunnels, including two of them which are lined up perfectly to outline Mount Rushmore ahead. One of them had a pull-out after where I could take photos.

To see photos from this day, please click on: August 30

Sunday, August 31

It’s still Labor Day Weekend and so I was nervous about getting into the “first-come-first-served” tours at the Wind Caves National Monument. I set the alarm for 6:30 a.m. and after eating breakfast and showering, was out on the road by 7:30. I had to slow down or stop on the road many times on the way to allow for bison, wild turkeys or mountain sheep grazing on the asphalt! There were also lots of deer in the meadows mostly mothers with their babies, still with the white spots in their coats. It took about an hour to get to the Visitor Center and I was in time to sign up for the 9am Natural Entrance Tour, the 10:30 Garden of Eden Tour and the 12:45 Fairgrounds Tour. They were each through different areas and various types of formations. This cave is slightly shorter than Jewel Cave, but much more complex. There is a lot of “boxwork” here, in fact 95% of the boxwork in the world is in this cave. Wonderfully convoluted paths and the lighting had just been redone, and I’m guessing that they had some professionals involved. It was really dramatic and beautiful. They told us that they can tell a bit about the weather by noting whether the wind is going into or out of the cave. They pointed out that their was a low pressure system coming and so the wind was coming out. They said that there was a storm coming and to expect rain and lightning in the night.
There was one more area that I wanted to see before I left the Black Hills, and so I headed for the scenic drive to Spearfish and the historic western town of Deadwood. I got there in time for the last reenactment of the shooting of Wild Bill Hickock at the Saloon no. 10. I walked around the town, drank a local beer and played a little Slot Machine Poker. (didn’t come out ahead this time)
Long way home. Saw lighting at a distance and a little rain. Got in after 10pm.

To see photos from this day, please click on: August 31

Monday, September 1

With no pressing schedule, I slept in this morning. Packed up for my next adventure: The Badlands.
With the late start, decided not to accomplish much today except visiting Wall Drug which is located in Wall, South Dakota, a few miles from the entrance to the park. (Apparently, the badlands formation looks like a wall). Checked into an RV Park with wifi and proceeded a couple of blocks away to the Store. I guess it started with one store and then they just kept adding on another room until it now seems like it’s maybe 10-15 rooms, all kind of sprawling out. Mostly T-shirts, post-cards, souvenirs and food. I was told to have a donut. It was good. I bought 3 T-shirts, a bunch of postcards and little state magnets so that I can decorate my Yelapa fridge with a map of where I’ve been. Corny, but I’m proud of how far I’ve come. My favorite T-shirt says, “The Real Founding Fathers” and has photos of 4 of the Chiefs, including my favorite, Chief Joseph. 

Tuesday, September 2

There as fast speed internet available and I worked all night and half the morning to upload as many day’s photos to the internet as possible. I got a very late start on my day’s activities.
I drove into the Badlands National Park and took the scenic route through most of the Wall. Amazing. Aparently, the volcanic ash and other dirt and rock from the west was washed into this area millions of years ago. The ash was very porous and eroded quite quickly. Other rock/fossils layers left stripes of different colors behind. Pinks, yellows, greens, grays. Very colorful.
Tried to photograph different lighting, we’ll see. Took some hikes. Got to the visitor center after it closed. Settled in at an RV Park adjacent to the park in a “town” called Interior.
Oh, boy, more fast speed internet.

To see photos taken on this day, please click on: September 2

Wednesday, September 3

Last minutes of fast internet and I finished uploading ALL of my photos to Picasa. Now, I need to set up the “hot links” to each day’s blog entry, which requires a PC and not my Mac. I brought back my PC lap top from my Berkeley visit. I think I will be able to get wirelesss reception on it and the next time my RV Park offers wireless, I’ll give it a try. Thanks for everyone’s patience, the photos have been missing for such a large amount of the trip. But, soon…..
Today’s route was to encompass the southern unit of the Badlands National Park with a visitor center staffed by Lakota Indians and with an emphasis on Native American culture. Unfortunately, I found out that it closed after Labor Day. So, I drove through the southern area, enjoyed the scenery, and headed for the Lakota College near Wounded Knee. They have a Heritage Center where I got a quick refresher on Sioux history, specifically the Wounded Knee Massacre. I visited the site and the cemetery. The drive back to the hiway was mostly through the reservation. They weren’t able to get the Black Hills back, but they have a wonderful portion of the Badlands.
I passed on seeing the Minuteman Missile National Monument (a tribute to the Cold War?), and headed east. I’m really short-changing the eastern part of the state, especially the northeast, but am running out of time.
Nearly sundown I reached Chamberlain, an old town on the Missouri River and pulled into a scenic campground. Took photos of the River only a few yards from my van. Spent the evening doing research on Nebraska. Trying to map out a route to see the sites. Looks like an easier state to navigate than I’ve had with the last few. I think I’ll be doing something like a figure eight with my route.

To see photos taken on this day, please click on: September 3

Thursday, September 4

What a lovely place to wake up. If I were to live in South Dakota, Chamberlain would be my top pick so far. Right on the Missouri. And everyone I met was very friendly. Hated to be in a hurry to get on the road, but I was determined to get to Nebraska today.
Stopped first at the Ahta Lakota Museum in Chamberlain at the St. Joseph’s Indian School in Chamberlain. They had the most beautiful clothing, beaded dresses, that I’ve ever seen. I couldn’t afford to even think of buying something like that, but I’m tempted to try to learn to make something similar out of beadwork and cloth instead of animal skin. Really beautiful things and in perfect condition.
Then off to Mitchell, home of the Corn Palace. Tom Hunt insisted that I visit there and I’m glad I did. Every year they totally redo the decorations with a new theme. The panels and dioramas are created totally from corn. They use some of the husks for a flounce look, slices off the cob for color and even curly silk for a wavy effect. Right now, they have the corn from this year’s harvest and are in the process of creating the palace for 2009. Inside they have photographs of most of the past years … all the way from the first year in 1892!!
There were so many more things I wanted to see in South Dakota. The site of the Little House on the Prairie books, for one, but I gritted my teeth and passed all the turnoffs until the one for northeastern Nebraska by way of Yankton.
I really didn’t know what to expect in Nebraska…flat land and cornfields, I think. It turns out that the Missouri River is the state boundary on all of the eastern side of the state and probably about a quarter of the north. That means beautiful waterways, parks, Lewis and Clark history, etc. The first stop was a Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center on the River and then to Ponca State Park where I’m spending the night. The Park is located on the Missouri National Recreational River, a 59 miles stretch of the river that looks much like it did prior to modern changes. Since it’s after Labor Day, I almost have the place to myself!

To see photos taken on this day, please click on: September 4

Friday, September 5

Made my own coffee, blended up a smoothie for the road and took off for a day in the land of Lewis and Clark. Followed roads adjacent to the Missouri River down to Omaha.
Just outside of town is the location of the Mormon Trail Winter Quarters. There is a lovely statue outside the visitor center of a group of the pioneers. I took the historical/religious tour of the center and watched the video. It was actually quite interesting to learn about the Mormon migration from Illinois to Utah (this town was where they would spend the winter months before traveling the final portion to Utah. They set up a temporary/permanent town here. They had a very good museum and realistic video.
The Lewis and Clark Visitor Center in Omaha is not well developed, so I moved on to the one in Nebraska City. This one is scenic, set right on the Missouri, with a reconstructed keel boat outside, nature trails and a pet prairie dog that they wouldn’t let me pet…too unpredictable, they said. Humph. Great video.
Final destination for the day is in the southeast corner of the state, Indian Cave State Park, located on the Missouri River. Arrived in time for a quick drive around and then set up for the night. Will try to get up early enough tomorrow to do a little more exploring in the park before saying good-bye to the Missouri River and moving west.

To see photos taken on this day, please click on: September 5

Saturday, September 6

I woke up this morning and couldn’t see out. First, I thought that the windows were fogged up, but then I realized that the world was foggy. The campground was on the Missouri, so I suspected that the recent change in the weather was causing it. I took a loop drive through the park, visited the “Indian Cave” with pictographs and noticed as I glanced over to the river, that it was indeed, “steaming”.
The first stop today was the Homestead National Monument. They have set aside one example of a homestead farm to use to educate about the movement. It was signed into law in 1863 by Abraham Lincoln, repealed in the lower 48 states in 1976, but extended to 1986 in Alaska. A homesteader was given the right to 160 acres, but had to build a house and remain on the property, “prove up”, for five years in order to gain title. Eventually over 270 million acres in 30 states were turned over from government to private ownership. They advertised the opportunity all over the world and it began the swell of emigration that necessitated the opening of Ellis Island. They have the original log cabin and have restored the old school house, there are over 100 acres of restored tallgrass prairie on the homestead land. There is a good video on the movement as well as videos on the evolution of farm machinery. Another topic that I had known nothing about.
The weather was still foggy and when I asked the ranger, she told me that Nebraska is generally muggy and fog not unusual. Most of the state is located over an aquafer, as is Oklahoma and I think Wyoming. I must learn more.
I then went by Rock Creek Station for a minute. It’s a state park near where a Pony Express station used to be.
Finished up with a long drive north to Grand Island, where tomorrow I’ll check out the nearby Morman Trail exhibit before heading across the Sand Hills of Nebraska.
Still no internet, but I can read the mail coming in on YelapaKathryn on the i-phone. I could respond in an emergency, but typing with that tiny keyboard is not a skill I’ve mastered.

To see the photos taken on this day, please click on: September 6

Sunday, September 7

Its raining! Dreary outside, but surprisingly pleasant in the van. I drove north through the sand hills all the way to Valentine. Everyone describes the sand hills as “nothing”, but I actually loved it. Reminded me of the golden hills of Sonoma before the vineyards. Peaceful. I went through National Forest, National Wildlife and now National River areas. My kind of neighborhood.
In the rain, I did laundry and found an RV park with wifi. Will try to catch up with blog matters. Supposed to rain tomorrow, too. May still visit ranger stations and waterfalls before heading west.

To view photos taken on this day, please click on: September 7

Monday, September 8

Today is Michael Popso’s birtday. Happy Birthday, Mikey!

Valentine, Nebraska. Woke up to sunshine!
As I drove the 5 miles or so back into town, I noticed that all along the hiway, each driveway or approach road contained a pick up truck or car aimed at the roadway and with one or two people just sitting there in the front seat. At first I thought they were waiting for me to pass before entering the road, but no. Then I finally came up with the idea that it was the beginning of hunting season and they were waiting for the “starting gun”. Finally, as I turned the last corner in the road approaching town, I saw that I was being stopped by a hiway patrolman and behind him was a HUGE building being moved down the street. It was currently stopped and the workmen were detaching overhead wires. The whole town was out with cars parked every which way and cameras out. First I was told I would have to turn around, but then I was allowed to quickly duck into a side street where I could detour around and be on my way. Of course, I had to stop first, park and get out with my camera. My favorite thing was that it was the corner where the nursing home was located, and there were all the old people in their pajamas sitting on folding chairs there at the corner watching the excitement. I loved it. It turned out to be an old mortuary that had more recently been a failed B&B. It had been purchased to be sent to South Dakota as a hunting lodge. See the photos.
Next stop, the Fort Niobrara National Wildlife Refuge. They had a visitor’s center and a scenic drive among the buffalo and elk. But, best of all was a waterfall hike. I had the place to myself, but what was even better was that right after the rain, everything was fresh and green. I took way to many photos, but it all just looked soooo good!
Took off on the drive west to Chandron. More sand hills and cattle ranches. Visited the Museum of the Fur Trade just outside of town. Quite thorough. First the French were trapping animals so as to send the furs to Europe. Then the Mountainmen stepped in. Then the Indians started trading directly to the fur companies. They even had yearly meets called Rendez-vous to do “speed” trading. Hard to imagine these raggedy bearded renegades organizing a meeting!
Started hearing about Mari Sandoz, an author who was born in the area and wrote about the Sandhills. Found her Heritage Center at the local college campus. Will be there when it opens in the morning. Got on the internet and looked up her books. Sounds like just what I want to round out my education regarding plains history, Indians and Homesteaders.

To view photos taken on this day, please click on: September 8

Tuesday, September 9

Picked up my coffee and arrived at the Mari Sandoz Heritage Center. They had a bookstore, too, and I rounded out my collection. Very Interesting.
Now off to Toadstool Geologic Park. This site is located only a few miles from the Badlands of South Dakota, so I’m in familiar territory. It was similar scenery, however I took advantage of the opportunity for a nice hike.
Next I made it to Agate Fossil Beds National Monument. Turns out that Agate is only the name that the original homesteader gave to the area, and the fossils are prehistoric animals. (Being the daughter of a “rock hound”, I’d hoped to learn more about agates) But, the animals are really unusual, including a rhinoceros-type and an animal with a neck and head like a horse, a body with really muscular hind quarters but clawed feet! Quite interesting. There was also a nice hiking area up to an area where they found curleyque shapes petrified into the cliffs. At first common opinion was that they were roots, but then one day they dropped one and found a petrified beaver type animal inside! They were like giant prairie dogs. So, this hike was up to the area where they are found and they have encased in plastic a couple of examples. Nice vistas from the top of the hiking trail.
Drove as far as Scottsbluff before calling it a day. Got some photos of the bluffs in the afternoon light before finding an RV park. It was almost empty. The “season” is really over. I’m sometimes the only car in the parking lots at the visitor’s centers. Some are no longer open after Labor Day, but otherwise, I like traveling at a quieter time.

To view photos taken on this day, please click on: September 9

Wednesday, September 10

Woke up totally socked in with fog. Glad I got the photos yesterday. Found my coffee, headed back to the visitor’s center and realized that the fog was already burning off. Got some “before and after” photos. Spent some time viewing the educational video and touring the museum before heading out on the scenic drive.
Scott’s Bluff is the name of a huge bluff that is all that is left of a high sandstone mesa that was eroded by the Platte River over millions of years. It’s one of the few in the area that were seen by the emigrants after much time spent on the flat prairie. It was a landmark of the Oregon, California and Mormon Trains. They all converge around here, and that’s what the lessons of this area are. In the ‘30’s the CCC/WPA built a road with tunnels up to the top of Scott’s Bluff. From the peak, there are two small hikes out to viewpoints. Other “monuments” are Chimney Rock, Courthouse and Jail Rocks, etc. I visited all of them.
While I was on the mountain top, I took advantage of the telepone reception and arranged my flight back to Berkeley to do some rental business. I’ll be flying from Tulsa on the 17th and returning on the 20th. While I’m away, I’ll have the van get it’s 25,000 mile tune-up at a Ford dealer there.
Stopped at a little museum in Bridgeport where I lucked out and met a local school teacher, a VERY interesting man (who was in the middle of reading a Mari Sandoz book) who could answer a lot of my questions about the emigrants, the trails, the Indians, the locals, etc. One of those chance encounters where I spend unexpected time on the spur of the moment. He also gave me some good advice about what sights I could skip, and one museum that I hadn’t planned on he told me I shouldn’t miss. I believed him and drove out of my way to the town of Kearney (pronounced Carney) and spent the night at the Fort Kearney State Park.

To view photos taken on this day, please click on: September 10

Thursday, September 11

I’m embarrassed to say that I wondered all day why the flags were at half-mast. Even checked out the headlines of a newspaper at the gas station to see if someone died. 9/11.

So, the museum that I came to see was built inside a huge arch that was built over highway 80 here. It’s called the Great Platte River Archway Museum, and it’s to commemorate the emigrant trails. It’s quite something. First you are greeted by a man who looks like Gabby Hayes complete with grizzly beard. Then they put earphones on you and send you up an escalator with a wall above you that has a western wagons movie scene projected on it. As you pass into the first “room” the earphones are triggered with the guided tour. Each room is a progression in time and a different theme: Indians, Mountainmen, Oregon Trail, Mormon Trail, Goldrush, Wagon trains, Pony Express, stage coaches, telegraph, steam engines, automobiles, internet. The earphones are triggered to pick up the recording in each room. Each room is full of readers quoting diaries of the people in question. They pay homage to drive-in movies and restaurants, have a news reel of the developmemnt of the use of highways, and my favorite, they have the history of the road-trip. A whole diarama of early road-side camping and the evolution of the RV park. I loved it! The patriotic ending was well-done with Woodie Guthrie singing, and excerpts of speeches from Martin Luther King, JFK, Lunar Landing, and reading quotes from Thoreaux, emigrant diaries, slaves, gold miners, etc. Very moving.
Before I left, I sat in the parking lot and planned my next steps.
Off to Kansas. I’ll try to complete my visits in western Kansas before heading to Oklahoma for my September 15th visit with Yelapa friend, Kellum. When I get back from Berkeley, I’ll do the rest of the Oklahoma visit and tour eastern Kansas and attend the Kansas City Blues Festival on October 3rd with Yelapa friend, Jerome. A little bit of circling around, but I do want to go to the Blues Festival.
Target date for arrival in Texas is still October 6th.
Western Kansas is mostly scenic drives with First Black Settlement, Nicodemus, Fort Larned National Historic Site and Cimarron National Grassland as my stops. Made it as far as Phillipsburg for the night. My impression of Kansas is not formed, yet. At first it all seemed poor and depressed, then it seemed a little more green and healthy. Mostly corn and cattle. Some little settlements dated in the 1800’s and quite a few catholic churches. One that posted a sign, “First Holy Mass, 1875”. Wonder if the early settlers were European? Questions to ask. Haven’t found a visitor’s welcome center yet.
I’m set up in a city park outside of town. $10 for the night. Electrical, internet and hot showers. I’m the only one here. Checking the listings for places to stay tomorrow night and found these comments: wifi * ice * miniature golf * laundromat * playground * storm shelter! I am in Kansas, Dorothy!

To view photos taken on this day, please click on: September 11

Friday, September 12

It rained in the night and the morning is misty/sprinkly.
Continued on the scenic road towards Kirwin National Wildlife Refuge. Visitor Center with very helpful rangers. Way too overcast to see any birds, but they went over my map with me and helped plan my route and places to see. They also gave me a new Kansas map that has different colors for the different types of “physiograpic” areas. I’ve been in the “high plains” and am going into the “smoky hills” and the “Arkansas River Lowlands”.
From there, I headed for Nicodemus, the first town west of the Mississippi that was founded by blacks, maintained by blacks and still occupied by blacks. Tiny population left, but every year for Homecoming, the town fills up with “family”. Great video caught me up on the story. About 600 ex-slaves made the trip, mostly from Kentucky. Shocked at the bleakness of the countryside, 60 of them turned around and went back. They say that those who stayed were made of sterner stuff and came out of it stronger people.
Continued some more on the scenic drive and settled in for the night in Russell, in an RV Park with wifi. Downloaded 600+ photos and edited them all and began the process of putting them on the web through Picasa. Stayed up after midnight, listening to the rain storm.

To see photos taken on this day, please click on: September 12

Saturday, September 13

Well, I guess the rain finally got it out of its system. I didn’t wake up very early, but when I did, it was to bright sparkly sunshine!
I have learned that there’s nothing like driving through farmland after a good rain. Even the roadside weeds are a bright glistening green.
I picked up the scenic route and headed for Fort Larned National Historic Site. This was one of the Forts that were built to protect the travelers on the Santa Fe Trail, which were mostly commercial wagon trains. This fort was built out of sandstone blocks and so has lasted a lot better than the wooden forts. It’s been restored and refurbished with furnishings of the time and there was also a good educational video. I also visited a private museum nearby that focused more on the Trail. Also, very interesting.
The scenic road now took me into wetlands and wildlife preserves. The gal at the coffee shop this morning told me to be sure and see the Cheyenne Bottoms Wildlife area. Its focus is bird migration and they even have the almost extinct Whooping Cranes. She told me that it is a very popular area, and “especially during hunting season”. My naive Berkeley voice piped up, “They kill the birds?” She looked nonplussed and said, “well, yes, during hunting season. But, not the Cranes”. Somehow, it doesn’t seem fair to set up a preserve and get the birds all content with their land, and then shoot them. Oh, I guess that’s what they did to the Indians, too.
I drove some more and headed back up north into the Post Rock Country. Early settlers cut their fence posts from this rock because timber was scarce, and the rock fence posts are still in common usage. I also saw fields of colorful Milo, an animal feed.
Drove too long and found a spot at Wilson Lake State Park in the dark. Tomorrow, I need to get into Oklahoma. Wonder how early I can wake up. ☺

To see photos from this day, please click on:   September 13

Sunday, September 14

Made it to Oklahoma! Drove all day, crossed the border and followed part of a scenic route, but mostly I was headed for an RV Park on the way to Tulsa. Stayed the night in Guthrie, not far from Oklahoma City.
I let the GPS find the route and it blew it. It was in the area of the Great Salt Plains at a town appropriately called Pond Creek where I ended up facing a detour at a flooded bridge. Luckily, there was a young man just turning into his driveway, who took the time to plot an alternative/back-country route back to the hiway.

To see photos from this day, please click on:  September 14

Monday, September 15

Took the direct route to Tulsa to visit Yelapa friend, artist/musician, Kellum Grey. He is living in Tulsa, in a battle with the state, trying to get his health care problems covered before returning to Mexico. We had a good visit and went out to a great barbeque place for dinner. In the afternoon, I checked out nearby Will Rogers Memorial and birthplace. Wonderful exhibits in a spacious building. Picked up a book called the Life and Writings of Will Rogers. Reading a bit each night.

To see photos from this day, please click on:  September 15

Tuesday, September 16

Headed for the Tallgrass Prairie Preserve. Lucked out and found a docent at the visitor center who was incredibly knowledgeable about the prairie, the Indians, the history of Oklahoma, the museums, etc. I spent hours with her learning and learning, asking questions and listening to her stories. This prairie is the only prairie left that has never been plowed. It had been a cattle ranch and only grazed. The original prairies were maintained by the bison eating the grass and occasional fires clearing them. So, that is exactly what they are doing with this land. They began with 500 bison a few years ago and now have a herd of close to 2500. They selectively burn small sections periodically and the resulting new grass sprouting is a favorite of the bison.
She explained that in Oklahoma a good part of the state is divided into different Indian “nations”. The Indian tribes are completely autonomous in this area. They sell cigarettes without having to pay the tax, they can have casinos, and they even have their own license plates. And yet, as I drive through the state, I don’t really notice any difference…other than signs saying, “You are entering the Cherokee (or whatever) Nation” “You are leaving the Cherokee Nation”. Hope to learn even more.

To see photos from this day,  please click on:  September 16

Wednesday, September 17

Dropped the van off at the Ford Dealer and they gave me a ride to the airport. Flying to California to meet the potential tenants for my Dana house. Plane change in Denver. Arrived in San Francisco at the end of the day. Rented a car and drove to Berkeley.

Thursday, September 18

Met and liked the new tenants, Tracey and Supana. Visited with Carol, Quincey, Joy and Helen and had dinner with Alexandra. Ran into Chris and Bernie at Bucci’s restaurant.

Friday, September 19

Met with Geline, had coffee with Mary, drinks with friends at Caesar’s, and the usual Friday night dinner group.

Saturday, September 20

Got up at 3:30 a.m. to return the rental car at 5 and catch the 6:30 a.m. flight back to Tulsa. Picked up the van and settled in for the night. I was so tired, I fell asleep without even unpacking.

Sunday, September 21

Last minutes in Tulsa. Third morning at Café Fusion and this time a cup on the house (thanks, Tyler). I went to the museums that the docent recommended: The Gilcrease and the Philbrook. The first has Remington and Russell originals and the Philbrook is set in an Italian Villa. These are both given to the city by Oil Barons. They are both gorgeous.
Took off for Oklahoma City to visit my very old friend, Jesse, who is a great blues musician, guitar and vocals. About to release a CD. Stay tuned. He lives just outside of town on a small ranch.
We took off for a backyard party at the home of local musicians, a visit to the home some of his friends, and ended up at a Blues club where Jesse sat-in at the jam. The best music evening yet! I stayed up until after 2 in the morning!

Monday, September 22

Slept very late. Jesse took me to the Cowboy Hall of Fame and Western Heritage Museum. More Remingtons and Russells and other mind-blowing art. Wonderful museum in the style that they are doing now where instead of a bunch of stuff behind glass and paintings lined up on flat walls, there are interesting shaped areas with mixtures of videos, photographs, room reenactments, etc. Very unboring.
Lunch at a barbeque place called the County Line and Jesse had to take off to teach a music class.
I began my scenic drive, and then realized that I had forgotten to take care of a big problem that has come up. My camera has stopped working. Jesse gave me the name of a very good camera store in Oklahoma City, so I turned the car around and headed back for the night at an RV park nearby.

Tuesday, September 23

Began the day with a latte in Bricktown, an artsy neighborhood of restored brick buildings set on a canal. Got the coffee and strolled along the canal for a while. Next I dropped by the Oklahoma City Memorial. Really with I had a working camera. Very moving. They have the memorial set right into the foundation of the building. They have empty chairs for each person who died and they are set up approximately where the person was. There is one tree that survived the blast and it is prominent along with a grove of planted nut and fruit trees in honor of those who came to rescue. It’s very well done.
Finally faced the camera problem and it turns out that it is “shot”. I could try mailing it in to the service center but it would probably cost hundreds of dollars to try to fix it. So, with the need to immediately take photos, I bought a new digital camera. I hope the photos will be as good.
About noon I finally returned to my trip northwest and followed the scenic route through some very picturesque country. Back to the land of gas for under $3.35/gal. I have spent way too much time in cities lately. It was so nice to get back out into the countryside where you can take a deep breath of fresh air.
Lots of colors today: greens, golds, reds, browns… silver aluminum farm buildings, white houses, black oil pumps. No billboards to interrupt the views of nature.
First I came to the Glass Mountain State Park. It’s like the Badlands with carved canyons, except these contain glittering stones that pick up the sunlight and sparkle. Then the Little Sahara State Park among the sand dunes. I’m spending the night at the Boiling Springs State Park and will check out the Alabaster Cave State Park in the morning.
Because it’s after Labor Day, there are very few people camping out. I just love almost having the place to myself. I found my own corner of the park, out of sight of anyone, passed deer and wild turkeys as I drove through the park, and am now attached to electricity and water, nestled in a grove of trees. I think I’m going to enjoy camping in the Oklahoma State Parks.

To see photos from this day, please click on:  September 23

Wednesday, September 24

Made it to Alabaster Caves in time for the morning tour. Each cave I’ve visited is a little different. This one had bats (mostly I just saw the guano) and slabs of alabaster. It seemed to be much more open also. It was formed by water rushing through it and I guess it just carved big openings. There are still streams flowing through. Quite lovely.

Headed for the Black Kettle National Grasslands and the Washita Battlefield National Historic Site. Another case of an early morning massacre of the elderly, women and children of a peaceful Indian band and the killing of a peace-seeking chief. Good video, good hike around the site with a written guide to the locations. The camp was on the Washita River and the chief was Black Kettle.
Drove a bit on Route 66. Spent the night at Foss Lake State Park campground.

To see photos from this day, please click on:  September 24

Thursday, September 25

Headed for the Wichita Mountains National Wildlife Reserve. My scenic route took me through the town of Granite. It turns out that it is the beginning of a chain of ancient granite mountains (500 million years old) that have eroded to the point that they are like piles of boulders. Really unusual.
Friends of Jesse’s had told me to be sure to visit nearby Medicine Park. It turned out to be a very quaint little settlement along a river with cobblestone shops. Very friendly…and with an espresso shop!
Spent the night at a City campground on Lake Lawtonga. Scenic photos of sunset over Mt. Scott.

For photos from this day, please click on:  September 25

Friday, September 26

Started off really early to drive through the wildlife preserve. Saw buffalo and long horned steer. The preserve has restocked them (plus elk which were not in sight.) I drove to the top of Mt. Scott.

Headed for the Arbuckle Mountains and the Chickasaw National Recreation Area. The Recreation area began as an area of springs, both mineral and fresh water, that were protected by the Chickasaw Indians. When settlers began to encroach, they went to Washington to ask for protection. They sold the entire area and it became a National Park. In more recent years, more land of a more recreational nature was donated and it was reformed into the Recreation Area. I visited the Nature Center, watched a video and hiked to see a couple of the springs. I also drove to a couple others before settling into the campground for the night.

To see photos from this day, please click on:  September 26

Saturday, September 27

When I went to sleep last night, I didn’t pull down the curtain on the back window. It was private and looked out on a dry creek bed. When I woke up this morning, I lay in bed for a while looking out at the trees. It’s September 27th and the leaves are beginning to turn. At the nature center yesterday, the video said this is the meeting of two ecosystems, the desert of the southwest and the hardwood forest of the east. I saw red oak, sycamore and cactus on my hike. So, here in the little campground woods, I am seeing the first signs of Fall.

Before taking off for my trip southeast near the borders of Texas and Arkansas, I make a stop at Turner Falls in the Arbuckle Mountains. My friend, Kellum, had remembered visiting there as a child. It was too far from Tulsa for us to make a day trip there, but I promised I would visit it for him. Took some some photos of this very scenic spot.

As I headed south, I found the country to be a little different. I enjoyed reading the signs as I passed by:
Masterworks Dulcimers (first sign of old country music)
Assembly of Good Church: Hunter’s Blessing. Camo Sunday.
A roadhouse with live music featuring the Busted Rubber Band (say it a few times with different inflections)
Show Pigs
After days of Clip and Curl and Magic Fingers, it was refreshing to see: Lana’s Hair Place.
Also, Pruett’s Food
I was low on gas, so I pulled into the next gas station I came to, with a big Conoco sign. First I noticed that they had no credit card slot, so I left my card with the gal at the counter inside. Then I noticed that next to her were two full cases of huge “bongs” and other paraphernalia and with signs saying, “For tobacco use only”. I prepared to wash my window, but couldn’t find the squeegee. Checked again with the gal inside. They don’t have window washing there. How about a bathroom? “I wouldn’t recommend it”, she answered.
Finally arrived at the Ouachita National Forest. It is interspersed with State Parks like Beavers Band and Hochatown. The forest has lots of pines, some maples and other trees I don’t know the names of. Haven’t found a visitor center yet, so have lots of unanswered questions. There is a scenic drive right through the middle of the forest and part way through I head for the Arkansas border where I’ve been told there is an RV park at a state park on top of a mountain. Sure enough, about 3 miles into Arkansas I found Queen Wilhelmina State Park. It is part of an old (1897) lodge (Dutch investors) built literally on the mountaintop. There is a circular drive around the rebuilt lodge that looks out in all four directions. I was told that I would wake up above the clouds. Can’t wait.

To see photos from this day, please click on:  September 27

Sunday, September 28

I woke up above the mist. Not the scene to take a photo of, but it set a kind of Brigadoon mood of unreality.
I started out on the Talimena Scenic drive. Just as I was beginning to feel foolish for stopping at every single scenic outlook. The tattooed biker I’d seen at some other spots, said as he passed me, “We don’t skip none of ‘em”. I felt better.
The drive goes east/west along the crest of the mountains. There is always a view to the north and to the south out onto the forests or down into the valleys. It is really beautiful. At one point, as I pulled into a scenic turnout, I noticed quite a few people standing along the edge looking down at the roadway below. It turned out that it was a launch site for a hang-glider. I couldn’t resist and joined the congenial group, which in a short time had all gotten acquainted and exchanged views of whether or not he would EVER fly. Just as I was about to give up, it happened and I saw my first hang-glider take-off.
I stopped at the small visitor center in the Winding Stair Mountain National Recreation Area and charted my route north. I made it as far as Cherokee county and spent the night in the Snowdale State Park.

To see photos from this day,  please click on: September 28

Monday, September 29

First stop was at the Cherokee Heritage Center in Tahlequah. I finally had someone to ask all my questions. I think I finally got it straight. The government moved all the Indians into “Indian Territory” which they said could be theirs autonomously. This trip has been called, “The Trail of Tears”. Then the settlers moved west, gold was discovered, and so they changed their minds. They wanted Oklahoma for a state and so they divided up the land and gave an allotment to each Indian separately and told them “no more communal living, governing, etc.” They gave an allotment to every man, woman and child…and then realized that children couldn’t hold title, so they took all theirs back. Then they gave the homesteaders all the “left-over” land. Then all the Indians were broke, hungry, discouraged, etc. and so they had to sell their land to survive. Very little land is still owned by the Indians. The Cherokee are slowly buying with the casino proceeds some of the more meaningful pieces of land or buildings that come up for sale. But, it turns out that the tribe cannot actually own anything. The government holds it all in “trust” for them. So convoluted. So many “catch 22’s”.
Now, my goal is to cross over into Kansas. I head north through more really beautiful country. The leaves are starting to fall…fluttering across the roadway in front of me like a flock of butterflies.
I make it all the way to Fort Scott, right on the Missouri border. I spend the night just outside of town at Lake Frances.

To see photos from this day, please click on:  September 29

Tuesday, September 30

Fort Scott is a restoration of an early Fort where the “Dragoons” were in charge of guarding the settlers crossing on the Oregon Trails or the merchants on the Santa Fe. They originally were there at the edge of the Frontier to keep peace with the Indians. But, as they put it, “The frontier kept moving” and pretty soon the fort was no longer relevant. They sold the fort buildings and the town turned them into hotels where slavery advocates and anti-slavers would battle. I learned a bit about the Bloody Kansas period and the fighting to the death prior to the vote to become a free state.
I passed through Kansas City looking for a place to get the rattle in my van checked out. Met a wonderful guy with a muffler shop, who didn’t have a tall enough garage to lift me up and look under, but he was quite certain that all I have wrong is a loose muffler. I’ll wait until I’m back visiting with Jerome to attend to it.
Headed for Atchison and the birthplace of Amelia Earhardt. What an experience! The museum is the gorgeous house of Amelia’s grandparents, where she was born. The tiny woman who is caretaker, also lives in an apartment upstairs, and has been there for 21 years (she told them she would give it a try for one year!). She is the mother of 6 children, 3 sets of twins. She has met all of the cast of characters, including Amelia’s sister before she died recently at age 93. I could barely tear myself away. She had the most amazing stories. I had no idea how convoluted the Amelia Earhardt story was. Bought a T-shirt.
Finished the scenic drive in northeast Kansas and spent the night at Perry Lake State Park.

To see photos from this day, please click on:  September 30

Wednesday, October 1

Wearing my Amelia Earhardt T-shirt, I drove into Topeka to visit Brown vs Board of Education. This landmark Supreme Court case brought about school desegregation and began the civil rights movement. The historical site is housed in a large restored brick school building and has educational/moving/upsetting exhibits/videos/dialogue/timelines and photos. It was mostly all during my growing up years and all too familiar. But, it was good to get it in a package. Details clear. Timeline straight. Got teary a few times. Well done.
Headed north to the State Historical Pony Express Site in Hanover. Hit a bridge reconstruction detour of over an hour and had to do a quick run-through of the restored cabin and museum before closing. I had the same round about drive back south and only made it to Tuttle Creek State Park near Manhattan for the night. Kansas State University is located here, so I’m counting on a particularly good latte in the morning!
To the sound of crickets, I’m going to sleep.

To see photos from this day, please click on:  October 1

Thursday, October 2

It took awhile, but eventually, I did find a very good latte and it was at a bakery, so I also picked up a cheese bread to take to Jerome’s along with the Elderberry wine from the Kansas winery and spicy cheese from a Kansas creamery!
I had counted on covering the historic town of Council Grove as well as the visitor’s center at the National Tallgrass prairie preserve. Well, I didn’t even get out of the visitor’s center at the Indian Mission where I met Mary, the representative of the Kansas Historic Society who runs the site. She is a landscape architect, who decided to follow her heart and moved from the City to a cabin on the lake, stepped back from her professional work to fit in this job where she teaches the public about he Kansa/Kaw Indians, co-ordinates their pow wows and helps them with the development of their own heritage center now in progress. The story of the almost total destruction of this tribe is one of the worst I’ve heard so far. Their territory originally encompassed all of Kansas, and some of all the surrounding states. They were a totally peaceful people and just agreed with whatever the US government asked of them (I guess they asked nicely!). First they cut them back to about a third of the area of Kansas, right across the middle. But, then I can’t remember what came first: Gold? Settlers? Trains? Buffalo hunters? In any case, they asked them to shrink down to about a tenth what they had. The location was on the edge of the Santa Fe Trail and merchants set up trading posts that overlapped onto the Kansa’s territory. Eventually, a whole town developed: Council Grove (named so after the grove of trees where the government would meet with the Kansa’s and other Indian groups to negotiate these “treaties”.) The government pointed out that they were encroaching and so they said to the government, Well, couldn’t the Kansa’s just give up about a mile of the northern most of their land? So, once again, they gave in. After that, they were asked to just move totally away into the Oklahoma Indian Territory. At that point, the chief is said to have commented, “You chase us like turkeys. First this way, and then that way. Some day you will just chase us over the mountains and into the ocean.” Nice guys finish last, I think they say…. They began with a population of thousands and after the moves and after the smallpox and other European sicknesses, they were down to under 600. They are back to being a tribe of about 2500 and recently purchased the land near Council Grove where they once had a village. That is where they are building the Heritage Center. Mary got teary telling me and I got teary listening. She and I gabbed so long, that it ended up being time to leave for Kansas City to see Jerome from Yelapa.
A few surprises: It was not a Blues Festival I was going to Kansas City for, it was a barbeque contest kick-off practice night. And Jerome did not live in Kansas City, Kansas, but in Missouri. No wonder my GPS couldn’t find his address!
Well, it turns out that Kansas City, MO, is a beautiful city. Lots of green grassy parks and lots of fountains. Jerome drove me around to see some of the prettiest neighborhoods, we walked to a nearby park with rose garden, and we went out to hear Blues at a local club after dinner.

To see photos from this day, please click on:  October 2

Friday, October 3

Today, our job was to help the barbeque team load up with supplies, then set up at the site and basically do what was needed to help Jerome’s friend, Don, prepare to barbeque. While we waited for Don to pick us up, I helped Jerome pick apples. He planted 4 apple trees in the family yard 30 or 40 years ago and he now has an out of control harvest! We picked about 40 pounds of MacIntosh apples, the amount he has been picking daily for awhile. He feeds his friends, family and neighborhood. He has a freezer full and has a whole basket for applesauce. I took enough with me, when I left, for an “apple a day” up until my Berkeley trip on the 14th.
The set-up site was at a place like a Convention Center. Lots of outdoor space for all the booths, and huge indoor space for the vendors. Our booth consisted of a BIG motor home, a golf cart, a tent, a bicycle, a table, folding chairs and a huge barbeque. It wasn’t like the Weber’s I’m used to in California. You know the barbeques people do in huge converted steel drums? Well, it was more along those lines, except they had like three or more chambers. I asked for a tour of the cooking set-up, but I still didn’t really understand how it all worked. All I know is that there were zillions of booths with all of them churning out smoke and smells and meat. Then, they all had invited their friends or colleagues to this practice night and were making a party of it. Rock ‘n Roll bands at every other booth, all turned up full blast. The evening ended with a huge fireworks display. I thought I was going to go deaf. I also didn’t get hungry again for almost 24 hours!
Jerome introduced me to lots of his very interesting friends and Don’s son gave me a ride in the golf cart all around the site. It gave me a chance to get an overview of he magnitude of the contest. They take this barbeque-ing seriously!

To see photos from this day, please click on:  October 3

Saturday, October 4

I got an early start to pick up where I left off in Council Grove. (First, I filled up the van with gas at $3.10 per gallon. Is it that low everywhere? Or just the midwest?) As I left Kansas City, I had one regret, that I hadn’t heard Jerome play his harmonicas. I’ll have to wait until Yelapa.
I arrived at the Indian mission and found Mary once again on duty. This time, we remembered to exchange names and contact information. I enjoyed the Mission museum and then took the walk along the river into town. There is a walking tour of historic spots in town and then I strolled back along the river, and said good-bye to Mary.
Next stop, National Tallgrass Prairie preserve, which is jointly owned and managed by the National Parks, the Nature Conservancy and the Kansas Land Trust. Once again, the reason the grassland remains is that it was a cattle ranch and never plowed. The stone house, stone barn and outbuildings are still standing and available to tour. They had live “old timey” music, spinning , etc. going on….everyone in period costumes. I took the tour of the house and a bus took us out onto the prairie and we learned all about the grasses, the birds and insects, mammals and amphibians.
The final leg today was the scenic drive south to the El Dorado Lake State Park. I stopped to do laundry and then set up at lakeside for the night. Tomorrow, I cross back through Oklahoma on my way to Cousin Sally in Dallas, Texas.

To view photos from this day, please click on:  October 4

Sunday, October 5

Well, I almost drove through three states today.  I began in southern Kansas, drove from north to south in eastern Oklahoma and camped just miles from the Texas border at Hugo Lake State Park.  I skirted the edge of the National forest, so the scenery was lovely. I was on a scenic hiway, but a straighter one than usual.  I made good time.

Monday, October 6

Wylie, Texas. Visit with Cousin Sally.

Tuesday, October 7

Drove across Texas from Sally’s all the way to Carlsbad Caverns in New Mexico, a few miles over the Texas border. Spent the night at White City, just outside the gates of the park.

To see photos from this day, please click on:  October 7

Wednesday, October 8

Visited Carlsbad Caverns, toured the caves, watched the bats fly out at sunset. Spent a second night at White City.

To see photos from this day, please click on:   October 8

Thursday, October 9

Reached the Guadalupe Mountains National Park. Hiked. No RV hook-ups. Drove on towards Fort Davis, spent the night at Bahlmoreal Lake State Park.

To see photos from this day, please click on:  October 9

Friday, October 10

Toured Fort Davis National Monument. Traveled to Big Bend National Park. Water released from dam in Mexico has flooded this area. RV campgound bathrooms still flooded. Stay just outside the park in Study Butte (pronounced Stoody Butte).

To see photos from this day, please click on:  October 10

Saturday, October 11

28 mile river trip on the flooded Rio Grande (rated 4) through the Santa Elena canyons!

To see photos from this day, please click on:  October 11

Sunday, October 12

Drove through Big Bend down as far as the flooded part. Drove into the Cisnos Mountains to their visitor center. Hiked a bit.

To see photos from this day, please click on:  October 12

Monday, October 13

Drove the scenic drive down to the river. Took the northern route out of the park to the visitor center. Headed for Amistad National Recreation Area. Stayed in Del Rio near Lake Amistad.

To see photos from this day, please click on: October 13

Tuesday, October 14

Drove to the “Hill Country”. Beautiful. Spent the night in Johnson City.

Wednesday, October 15

Visit Lyndon B. Johnson National Library and Historical Site. Fly to Berkeley for a week of business.

To see photos from this day, please click on:  October 15

Thursday, October 16-22

Business trip to Berkeley. Visit old friends. Loose my van keys.

Wednesday, October 22

Arrrive back at the Austin airport. Find that I’ve left my keys in Berkeley!  AAA to the rescue. Finally back on the road.  Arrive in Kerrville to visit Cindy Dix and Jim Weathersbee, old friends from Berkeley, at their horse ranch. Great chicken enchiladas. Cindy is giving me the recipe.  Cindy was an Obama delegate to the Texas primary convention!  Go, Cindy!

Thursday, October 23

Spend the day with Jim and Cindy. Meet all the horses, cats, dogs, ducks and deer.  See the surrounding area.  Great dinner at local restaurant.

To see photos from this day, please click on:  October 23

Friday, October 24

The white swans, Elizabeth and Mr. Darcy, show up just as I’m leaving.  Drive many miles to El Paso, on the border of Mexico and New Mexico.

To see photos from this day, please click on:  October 24

Saturday, October 25

Drive from El Paso to White Sands National Monument, New Mexico.  Huge pure white sand dunes. Picnic on the sand.

To see photos from this day, please click on: October 25

Sunday, October 26

Silver City,. Obama Campaign Headquarters. Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument. Drive to Arizona. Dinner with Rocky (Yelapa friend) in Tucson.

To see photos from this day, please click on:  October 26

Monday, October 27

Tucson, Arizona with Rocky