National Park Road Trip 2009

Saturday, April 4, 2009

Crossed the border from Mexico to Arizona.  Plan to cross southern Arizona and visit a couple of National Parks or Monuments that I missed first and second times through. 

Friends, Jim and Camilla Alexander, have a home and observatory in southern Arizona and I was hoping I might find them in town.  I made it for the night in Bisbee, an old mining town, now home to artists and bohemians, nearby to where Jim and Camilla live.  They turned out to be in Point Richmond at the time, but were able to describe where their observatory is located and give me tips on the local scenic drives.

Sunday,  April 5, 2009

Drove into town for a good old fashioned Hazlenut Cafe Latte at Bisbee Cofee Company.  I followed Jim’s advice and drove to Portal, Arizona.  Took an unpaved road and found the back entrance to Coronado National Forest.  Very beautiful.  On the way, I was able to glimpse the round domes of Jim’s telescope/observatory.  Lots of starwatching in this country.  Away from city lights. 

I was feeling almost teary about the natural beauty I was seeing all around me.  I’m really back on the Road Trip.  When I’m in Yelapa, I see the same beauty every day, and every day I’m thankful for being where I am.  On the road trip, there’s the added exhileration of the sense of freedom and escape.  How lovely to have both.

Passed through the town of Bowie on the way to Fort Bowie National Historic Site.  It’s a pecan, pistacio and grape growing district.  I bought a bottle of local chablis wine as well as some roasted and salted pecans.  Picked up raisis at the local grocery and have instant Trail Mix for my hikes!

Fort Bowie turns out to only be the ruins of a few walls, but to get to the site requires a 2 mile hike in.  Didn’t learn much about the history of the fort from the volunteers at the visitor center after all that effort.  Room for improvement there.

Next stop, Chiracahua National Park.  Made it to the campgrounds for the night.

Photos from this day:  April 5, 2009

Monday, April 6, 2009

Woke up early. Weather quite cool. Primitive campground, no electricity.  The visitor center at Chiracahua had a video, an exhibit and good advice.  The rock formations are  a little like Bryce Canyon.  Towering pedistals carved out by water, ice and wind.  The ranger sent me to the Echo Canyon hike where I walked down into the canyon and studied the formations from both above and below.  More than 3-miles long, the beauty of the hike made me not want it to end.  I also drove the 8-mile scenic drive. Lots and lots of photos.

There are no National sites in southern New Mexico that I missed, so I drove straight across to Las Cruces for the night. 

Photos from this day: April 6, 2009

Tuesday, April 7, 2009

Got an early start for my crossing into Texas.  Was afraid that I would arrive at the Chamizal visitor center before it opened.  But, I’d forgotten to change my clock to Mountain time, so arrived right on time.

At the end of the Mexican-American War, the Rio Grande River  was set as the international border.  Since the river bed is constantly moving and changing, they said that if the change was a slow one, the border would follow the river.  If the change was rapid, like a flood, it would not change, but remain the wame.  Over the next hundred years, the changes were so confusing that the actual border was totally unclear.  In some undeveloped areas, it was not crucial, but where the twin cities of El Paso and Juaez were built, the land was developed and privately owned, leaving a mess.  This border “dispute” was a bone of contention between US and Mexico for many years, until JFK, concerned about Castro’s appeal for Mexico, decided that it was time for us to make a gesture to Mexico, and offered to settle the border question in a generous manner.  Between the two cities, the river was confined within a concrete channel, and both countries donated land along the disputed area to be developed as a park and cultural center.  The visitor center had a video showing some of the activities they have over the year.  Lovely setting.  Big auditorium full of school children watching puppets showing them how to recycle their water bottles.

Hit the road east into Texas on hiway 10.  Stopped for gas somewhere in the middle of nowhere and was greeted by a state-trooper/fellow customer.  He was curious about my voyage and cautioned me to be careful.  Very sweet, called me ma’am.  As I paused before re-entering the hiway to study my maps, he approached and handed me his card.  He had written on it emergency phone numbers I could use as I move east across the state.  What a nice world.

The scenery changed a bit from open desert-like to hills with short oak-like trees and interesting rock formations exposed where the roads are cut through.  Not sure where to spend the night until I saw a sign for the Caverns of Sonora  RV Park and Campground.  No internet,  no cell phone reception.  I sat in my ratty folding chair, drinking a glass of white wine, facing the fields and pastures from under the sheltering oak trees.  Bird song in the background. Big smile on my face.

Photos from this day: April 7, 2009

Wednesday, April 8, 2009

Took the tour of the Caverns of Sonora.  Beautiful formations of every kind.  Only about 2 hours away from San Antonio and the National Historic Site:  the Missions of San Antonio.  Next visit.

The missions were built  in a string, not very far apart from each other.  Concepcion, San Jose, San Juan and Espada.  Because of raiders, they ended up building a walled community, lining the inside of the walls with the 2-room apartments for the “natives”.  Some of them are still intact and set upp with “furnishings” enough to imagine how they lived.  Some of the churches are still being used.  The ranger tour pointed out where original frescos are being discovered under layers of paint, and efforts are being made to repaint with the original colors.  They have linked the missions with a scenic drive and bicycle path 8 miles in length. 

Spoke with Renee from Yelapa who lives in Austin and planned to get together at 8pm after her last massage client.  Renee lives in a wonderful house in a wonderful setting.  It’s a double deep lot full of vegetables, flowers, pond, music stage, sitting areas, studio, etc.  She can live off her garden…even artichokes.  Her house is serene.

So out we went to a rib house, Art’s, to meet her friend, Steve, and listen to music.  Ate baby-back ribs, potato salad and cole slaw.  From there we hit a Honky Tonk called the Broken Spoke, where a Western band played and the dance floor was packed with Texas 2-steppers.  It turned out it was the University of Texas dance class.  My mouth was hanging open all nite.  Great South Austin experience!

Photos from this day: April 8, 2009

Thursday, April 9, 2009

Renee told me about a good boot store in Austin, Allen’s.  I was studying and admiring the women’s boots at the club last night.  I decided that if I was ever going to get a pair of cowboy boots, Austin was a great place to do it.  And I found the perfect pair:  Gringo brand, coveered with entwining pink roses!  Brown, crinkly leather, very low heel, side zipper.  I’m broke, but very happy.

I drove north to the Round Rock suburbs of Austin to  St. David’s Hospital to visit “Texas” Donn from Yelapa.  He immediately got out of bed, unhooked his IV from the wall, put on his slippers and said, “Let’s go”.  We wheeled his contraption into the elevator and headed for freedom.  We stopped at the cafeteria for a snack and then wandered out to check out my van and sit on the grass in the shade of the trees.  After awhile, he needed to return for his meds and we headed back.  He goes in for the cancer treatment April 26/27.  Fingers crossed.

Took the long scenic route to Kerrville and had to call Cindy to guide me into their ranch over the  cell phone.  I completely forgot the route from a year ago. 

Found her in the barn (Jim was on the golf course) and watched her close things up.  We drank wine in the gorgeous new kitchen until we got silly.  Cindy made a great impromptu meal and we decided to wait and go out for a meal at breakfast.

5 horses, 4 dogs, countless cats – all with their own names and personalities.    There are even 2 swans on the lake.  Mr. Darcy (Elizabeth died this year and he brought back a new wife) and Elizabeth II…or as Cindy calls her, QEII!  When I unpacked the van, I peeked out the window, and found I was surrounded by deer!

photos from this day: April 9, 2009

Friday, April 10, 2009

Helped Cindy feed the horses…well, I sat in the tiny tractor with her.  We had breakfast at a cowboy place, where all the workers start their day.  Eggs, bacon, biscuits and GRITS!  Turns out I like grits. They are like cream of wheat cereal, but made with corn. Who knew?

I wondered how far I could reach in one day, and made it all the way to Huntsville.  It’s wild flower season and today’s drive took me out of the dry region into a land of rolling expanses of grass–and flowers.  Carpets of blue, gold, pink, yellow, white.  Just beautiful.

Sam Houston State Park campgrounds had been sold out for Easter weekend for a month.  The National Park was also full.  So  for the first time, I spent the night in a Walmart’s parking lot.  Actually, it wasn’t bad.  They have a security car that drives around, and because it’s not a peaceful, silent place, I didn’t worry about the sound of my generator and was able to make microwave popcorn and sit up in bed with the lights on, reading my novel.

photos from this day: April 10, 2009

Saturday, April 11, 2009

After an early start, I drove through the Sam Houston Park and took the scenic drive to the Visitor Center at Big Thicket National Preserve.  Seems to be Lake country.  Very green, lots of horse ranches with long stretches of white wooden fences.

Seems all the churches are having Easter egg hunts on Saturday.  Passed lots of such scenes with dressed up children, parents holding the Easter baskets, grass dotted with colored eggs.

Homes are far apart from each other and don’t seem to be hidden behind fences here and lots of  back yards had ffamily barbecues in progress.

The Visitor Center had a film that explained the three different systems in the park.  A dry area that even supports cactus, a pine area in a savannah (a saucer shaped area where when it rains, all the nutrients filter down and out of the soil as well as the clay which then forms a lining that prevents good drainage.  So it’s either boggy or bone dry. Not good for growing much.  But, carnivoorous plants can make it because they have other sources of food.  The Pitcher Plant is in bloom and I took a couple of hikes where they grow.), and a third area that is like a swamp.  The Center’s video showed the ranger paddling a canoe through the trees all under water.  Didn’t see this area.

Continued the drive through the National Forests.  Sam Houston yesterday, Davy Crockett today.  There was rain in the afternoon.   Researched an RV park with wireless internet so that I could open up the next chapter of my blog and settled for the Northshore RV Resort on Lake Livingston.  $25 and there is laundry, hot showers, dishwashing sinks, pool, lake view, etc.  Just before I arrived, I made a sharp turn with brakes on and triggered a reaction with my anti-lock brake system.   Some guys at the park helped me find the fuse to pull and hopefully, when it’s put back, the system will reboot and be fine.  Otherwise, I’m in trouble….it’s Easter Sunday and nothing will be open.

Photos from this day:  April 11, 2009

Sunday, April 12, 2009

Happy Easter.  Rainy morning, but took a good hot shower and washed my hair.  Caught up on the blog, tried opening up new sections.  Will try to hook up the photos later.  Suddenly a huge thunder and lightning rain storm came up.  Put out my awning for shelter from the rain, made some breakfast and settled in on the computer.  Just as abruptly, the storm passed over in the afternoon and the sun came out quite brilliantly.  I’m hoping to get on my way and make a bit of driving progress before the day’s over.

When I started up the van, the same, anti-lock brake related whirring noise sounded.  Took the fuse back out,  looked up the number for the local Ford dealer to call in the morning and settled in for the night. 

No photos today.

Monday, April 13, 2009

Ford dealer said it shouldn’t hurt to drive without the fuse.  His shop was too small for my van height, so he couldn’t have lifted the van and checked it out anyway.

Headed for Jasper and the final two National Forests.  Angelina and Sabine. Crossed border into Louisiana at Logansport.

I liked east Texas.  Green grass, lakes, horses, wild flowers.

Roads were named after people – first and last names.  Just as I began to wonder if I’d ever see a road named after a woman — I passed “Mrs. Weeks Road”…Oh, well.

Took Louisiana Hiway 20 and drove straight across the state to Vicksburg, Mississippi.  The Visitor Center had just closed – lovely spot on the Mississippi River.

When I crossed the bridge, I said to myself — this is the Mississippi River!  My first view.

Just before I got out of Louisiana, I was hit by a powerful storm.  Brief but intense.

No photos today.

Tuesday, April 14, 2009

Made plans at the Visitor Center.  Took the scenic drive through old Vicksburg aand out to the National Military Park.  Bought the CD and followed it in my car.  I can imagine there are lots of reinactments on the grounds.

Took the hiway to Natchez. At their Visitor Center, got directions to the two National Historic sites which are old houses.  1) The William Johnson House. A Black man, ex-slave (but later slave-owner) prosperous barber, prolific diarist. 2) Melrose, a cotton kingdom estate in  near original condition including furnishings, on a huge piece of land.  Good tour.

Finally onto the “Trace”.  The roadway evolved from deer trail, to Indians, to settlers, etc. No commercial vehicles, no businesses, no billboards, etc.  Mile posts match itinerary on map.  Lots of history, nature, picnic, hiking stops.  Made it to Clinton for the night.

photos for this date:  April 14, 2009

Wednesday, April 15, 2009

Began with Clinton Visitor’s Center.  Learned that Eudora Welty Centennial is being celebrated right now.  Headed for her house in Jackson where I had birthday cake and lemonade (she would have chosen bourbon) while waiting for the tour to begin.  Lots of Mississippi accentss to listen to.  Great tour of house (no interior photos allowed) and sprawling gardens.

There was a local AP photographer filming the house who was interested in my van.  He had been literally watching Katrina when it struck.  Lots of interesting tales.

Hiway signs pointing to (sweet) Tupelo, Hattiesburg and Meridian.  Names familiar from civil rights days (and song).

Back on the Trace.  Wild turkeys have been wandering on the roadsides.

Stopped at the visitor center for the town where Oprah was born. Kosciusko.

Cypress Swamp – great walk through and around the swamp – towering cypress and tupelo plus tiny stubs of baby cypress.

Made it to Tupelo for the night.

Photos for this date:  April 15, 2009

Thursday, April 16, 2009

First stop: visitor center, Tupelo, on the Trace parkway.  Got directions to Elvis’ birthplace and the National Battlefield  Brices Crossroads.  They urged me to also see Shiloh (in nearby Tennessee) while I was in the area, but there are only so many battlefields I can take in a few days.

The Visitor Center itself was very interesting. A video narrated by a man with a slow drawl set the tone.  The history of the trace…used by thee Kaintuks who barged down the Mississippi with cargo (and sometimes horses), sold it at Natchez, dismantled the barge and sold the wood and then walked oar rode back up north.  It wasn’t until they developed the paddlewheel that they could make the return trip back up  the river current. 

So, on to Elvis. Tiny 2-room house, original Assembly of God church relocated and restored complete with a 3-screen reinactment video.  Museum and grounds with info at every turn.  Souvenir shop:  Elvis Monopoly and snow globe filled with glitter — I couldn’t resist!

Back kon the Trace.  Dogwood in bloom! Perfect month to be traveling this route.  My Mother always loved Dogwood and was always looking for it.  I don’t think it’s found much in California, but now I know why it was her favorite. 

Brice Crossroads. As expected.

Passed another big body of water.  Noticed again the flat bottomed boats with buuilt-in raised seats/chairs where people sit (or they stand) while fishing.

Back on the Trace to Alabama border and about 30 minutes to Tennessee.  short stretch in the state, but I drove it.

Headed for Florence/Muscle Shoals/tuscumbia and an RV park at the edge of a huge field of wild flowers. I’ve perched my canvas chair at the grassy stretch overlooking the field and with white wine in hand, catch up this journal.  Tomorrow, Tuscumbia, birthplace of Helen Keller.

Amazed to find high-speed internet available!  Also caught up the blog.

Photos today:  April 16, 2009

Friday, April 17, 2009

Followed the orders of my GPS through the tiny town of Tuscumbia and to the site of Helen Keller’s birth.  Crowded with visitors, but very nice staff kept things sorted out.  It was especially nice to see all the photos of her family and Teacher and Helen over the years.  I bought a small biography full of pictures – for bedtime reading.

Dropped by the town visitor center to verify my “scenic drive” through the state and took off for the road thru Bankhead Nat’l Forrest (Tallulaha’s Dad, I think). Stopped at riverside for a breakfast picnic.

Notice dotted throughout the countryside tons of private and group yard sales.  Is it a Friday tradition, sign of the economic times  or just what Alabama does with their extra stuff instead of Salvation Army/Goodwill? This is also an area where the yards havee no fences.  Great for me, driving by, to be able to see so much of people’s lives. I don’t think I’ve ever seen an amidillo alive….but there have been a dozen or so as “road kill” today.

After the “forest”, the route heads for Huntsville, Alabama, where I ran into my first “rush hour” traffic in a while.  Friday afternoon and the hiways still have the occasional traffic lights.  It didn’t last long and everybody was quite polite.  There seem to be no cell phone laws in Alabama.  At one point, I counted 5 out of 6 cars that passed me, busy talking.  One left-hander.

Made it to Scotsboro by 5:30pm. My RV park book mentioned nearl–by Goose Pond Colony–intriguing name.  It stretched out along the banks of what II would call a very long  lake, not a “pond”. But, indeed, there are Canadian Geese.

The place looks trashed, like they’ve been lumbering the trees–until I learn that last weekend’s storm plowed through here with hail as big as soft balls on Friday and a  small tornedo on Sunday.  And I can see across the water from my spot where the trees on the opposite bank are all broken off.   The trees must be 60 feet tall and there are fallen ones on either side of where I’ve parked my van.  The park has had a huge clean up this past week but much damage is still visible and the ground still torn up.

Photos for this day:  April 17, 2009

Saturday, April 18, 2009

Woke to a clear cool morning on the lake.  Plumped up my pillow to raise my head enough to look out and study this new day.  Canadian geese floating my way.  In pairs and with babies! One pair trailed by six babies.  I love being an early riser. The camp is still, just the sounds of chattering birds and one early morning fishing boat motoring around the bend.

As I look around me at the fallen trees, their root balls puffed right up  and sticking up above the ground, I think back to my drive yesterday and to all the communities where I saw three trimmings lining the streets.  I had thought it was the scheduled time of year to pick up yard debris…duh. I guess a lot of the state was affected by the storm.

Observations as I drive:  Shorty Robertson Road, Bob Jones Road and Ed Hembree Drive. “Mad Tatter” Tatoos. Chatanooga 56 miles. Most every front porch has a chair or two.  Often a woodeen rocker.  And usually there’s at least one person sitting in one of them.  Don’t know if it’s the climate, custom or what that makes the front porch used in this part of the world so much more than in the west.

I was just directed:  “You go past Walmart and turn right at Tacobell”  I want to know:  “Why do bass fishermen stand up in their boat to fish?” In Alabama, gas is pretty consistently $1.99 9/10 per gallon.  Wonder what it is in CA?   Church sign: “The key to heaven was hung on a nail.” Fyffe, Alabama.  Fort Payne identified itself as the “sock capital of the world”.

Made it to Little River Canyon National Preserve and completed the scenic drive before bedding down for the night at De Soto State Park. 

Photos from this day:  April 18, 2009

Sunday, April 19, 2009

Rained in the night.  Stopped off at the Little River Falls – very full.

Today’s church quote: ” Be ye fishers of men:  you catch ‘em, he’ll clean ‘em”

Light rain on and off all day.  No wonder it’s so green here.

Drove the Lookout Mountain scenic drive as well as through the Talledega National Forest.   Completed the drive at Cheaha State Park.  Visited the Horseshoe Bend National Military Park.  It was the last stand of the Creek Indians when the Red Stick band was defeated.  Another sad tale of  the US quest for land/breaking treaties/finding excuses to drive  the natives out of their lands.

Didn’t want to miss the area of Eufalia, Alabama (I’d heard it was beautiful), so drove all the way down there for the night.  Stayed in the Deer Court section of Lakepoint Resort State Park.  And, indeed, there were tons of deer frolicking around at dusk.  Sat with my glass of wine and enjoyed the show.

Photos from this day:  April 19, 2009

Monday, April 20, 2009

It rained in the night, leaving a bright blue sky morning. 

Today’s church quote:  “Turn or Burn”

Headed back north to Tuskegee for two Historic sites: Tuskegee Institute where Booker T. Washington set up the all Black educational institution to teach practical skills and where George Washington Carver taught and developed his theories on peanuts, and also, the Tuskegee Airmen Historic Site where black airmen were trained during World War II.

Then on to the Selma/Montgomery historic route and the voter registration march.  Visited the site of the AME church where the march was begun and crossed the bridge where Bloody Sunday occurred.  Moving.

Finished the historic route 80 going west back to Meridian, Mississippi, poised for the drive south tomorrow to the National Seashore/Gulf Coast of Mississippi/Alabama/Florida.  I’ll be seeing lots of Katrina devistation and recovery.  My RV Park hosts had lots of stories to tell of running extension cords and water hoses out of every corner of the park in order to accomodate all the refugees from Katrina.  (Now the park is full of oil pipeline workers)  They told me that I will see stretches of empty land which used to be full of antebellum houses.  One spot where a home was lost, the owner now camps out in one of the “temporary” trailer homes, in no hurry to rebuild.  They also told me that an artist has come repeatedly to turn the shredded trees into sculptures.  I’ll see if I can find them.

Photos from this day: April 20, 2009

Tuesday, April 21, 2009

Began the Gulf Islands, National Seashore trip with Mississippi.  Only 32 miles from New Orleans (next year’s destination).  Lots of Hurricane damage.  Found the carvings of sea birds and fish on the dead trees along the roadway center strip. 

Photos from April 21, 2009:  April 21, 2009

 Wednesday, April 22, 2009

Took the Dauphin Island ferry to Fort Morgan and the Gulf Shores.  Less hurricane damage on Dauphin.  Met nice Texas birding couple on the ferry.  They keep the records of the birds they see right in their bird book.  Good idea.

Brief stop at Bon Secour National wildlife Refuge in Alabama, and then “hello, Florida”.  First stop, Fort Barrancas Visitor Center at the Gulf Islands National Seashore.  Located within the Pensacola Naval Air Station, it was originally a Spanish Fort to protect their colony from attack by sea.  The French then briefly occupied the site and in 1763 the British built their own fort there.  The Spanish recaptured it during the American Revolutiion in 1781, but Andrew Jackson seized the Spanish forts in 1814-1818 and Florida became part of the US in 1821.  Much of Florida was under many flags and their culture, names and history reflect this history.  The forts even played their parts in the civil war and even into World War II.  Both the Spanish and the English fort structures survive – complete with moat the draw bridge.

To see photos from this day, click on: April 22, 2009

Thursday, April 23, 2009

 Happy Birthday to me!  It’s the first time I can remember that I didn’t spend my birthday with family and friends.  I thought I would treat it just like any other day on the road trip, continuing my schedule of National sitess–and I did up to a point–but as the day passed (I received an early morning e-mail from Doug Hill, a precious phone call from Patti in Yelapa, and an el-mail greeting from brother, Chris …and, of course, Peter Mitchell had sent the usual irreverent e-mail card on his birthday a couple days earlier!), I got more and more sentimental and decided to take myself out to dinner…and decided that my new cowboy boots would be officially a birthday present!

I did visit De Soto National Monument – a location near where the Spanish explorer based his North American exploration.

I needed to get as far south on the Gulf coast as I could since my next stop will be The Everglades in South Florida.

I read my Lonely Planet guidebook and picked the beach town of Fort Myers which has a waterfront restaurant they raved about.  It took longer then I thought to get there (lovely town and delightful restaurant) annd after dinner it was too late to find an RV park, so I spent my first night in a Walmart parking lot.  I’d heard that they welcome RV’s to park overnight, but never tried it.  The lot is huge – like 1 1/2 football fields and there was a woman in a “security” car driving around.  So, I asked her if it was OK and where she preferred I park.  She said anywhere I wanted, but that usually people parked over to one side.  Sure enough, there were already a couple of “rigs” there.  I joined in.  I was worried about how using my lights and fan would affect my battery, so I was frugal and everything was fine.

To see photos from this day, click: April 23, 2009

Friday, April 24, 2009

Made my coffee and took a sponge bath in the van before leaving the parking lot.

Arrived at Big Cypress National Park at the edge of the Everglades and saw my first alligators in the wild.  Peter Mitchell warned me that they were not “cuddly”, so I kept my distance.  decided that for cuteness, I wanted to see a manatee.

Because it is now the dry season, there is hardly any water and the “swamps” are just grassy prairies.  I started wishing I were here in the wet season, for better sightseeing, until I learned that the bugs at that time of year are unbearable!  The small amount of water that was left was crowded with fish which attract the rest of the wildlife.  So, it was easy to know where to look.  The old Cypress trees were picturesque, and the Park video had shown a ranger wading thru them in water up to his waist…  so, I used my imagination as I strolled. I saw bromiliads, orchids, endangered Wood Storks and an Anhinga bird swallowing its dinner along the back country road.

On to the nearby Everglades.  I’m allowing at least 2 days to cover this huge Park.  More alligators, a couple turtles, but – no manatees. Crowds of alligators, wherever there was water. Tkhey have even learned to go out in the marsh and pound their tails until they make an indentation in the ground and then that becomes the last place that holds water.  You can spot these areas because they also support trees and  other growth in a ring around the water hold.  How clever.

First stop was the tram ride through Shark Valley (neither sharks nor a valley there). When the water dries up, the fish die and vultures clean-up.  It was educational ride, but not much to see. 

Spent the night in Florida City camp grounds…pretty depressing.

To see photos of this day, please click: April 24, 2009

Saturday, April 25, 2009

Arrived at the Flamingo Visitor Center early enough to catch the morrning boat into the mangroves and the inland waterways.  The air roots of the mangroves go into the brackish water, filter out the salt and thrive.  The seeds of the Mangrove can float around for a long time before taking root, but when they ddo, they create a floating island and then eventually it becomes an actual “key”.  Hence the “Florida Keys”.

Saw one alligator, a couple of fishermen, lots of mangroves.  The ranger suggested a couple of hikes, one with a rookery of baby Wood Storks!  Headed for the Royal Palm Visitor Center and hiked their Anhinga Trail.  Alligators and turtles and birds!

Made it back to Flamingo in time for the sunset cruise out into the Bay.  I shared the trip with a nice couple from Switzerland and crusty old Captain Bob and young Justin, his crewman.  It was delightful.  We watched the sunset on East Cape Sable, the southern most point of the mainland of the continental US.

Camped for the night at Flamingo campgrounds, on the edge of the bay.

To see photos from this day, please click: April 25, 2009

Sunday, April 26, 2009

A cool shower at the campground, iced coffee in the van and off to Biscayne National Park.  The Bay is on the Atlantic side of the Florida Keys.  Very shallow water. Saved from development in a very controversial fight in very recent years.

Because of the wind, the water is churned up and neither snorkling or glass bottomed boat trips are happening. I would have enjoyed seeing coral and colorful fish – or maybe a manatee, but no.

So, I settled for a boat ride out to an island with a light house. Once the playground of the rich and famous — and now, actually, still is. There were yachts anchored blaring salsa music as our ranger tried unsucessfully to bring history alive.  And there was the water, never more than seven feet deep, bottom lined with sea grass — but no manatees.

When the boat anchored back at the park, I hopped in the van and drovee straight out to Key West.  I planned to either boat or fly out to Dry Turtugas National Park in the early morning.  But, when I arrived and found the only campground in town, I was told it would be $90 for the night.  That was just wrong!  I hadn’t looked forward to paying $120 for the Dry Turtuga flight or spending another whole day on a boat trip, so I “up and left”.  Drove back to the mainland, pulled into the Walmart at Homestead, cranked up the generator, made microwave popcorn, and slept well with no regrets. Well, other than the stupid long drives…

For photos from this day, please click on: April 26, 2009

Monday, April 27, 2009

Drove up the Atlantic side of Florida by way off Lake Okeechobee. Now this is the lake that is at the heart of the whole water dispute in Florida.  It is a  huge lake and its water is supposed to feed the aquafer that would store all the water for southern Florida.  But the developers found it to be too wet and swampy and so in order to develop Miami, etc., they built canals to detour billions of gallons of fresh water each day out into the ocean.  So, Southern Florida doesn’t have enough water and the everglades and mangroves, birds, fish, alligators are all endangered.  that’s the story and I saw the lake. and it really is huge.

I cut over to the coastal highway A1A at Vero Beach, a gorgeous very well-planned community.  I missed the Canaveral Visitor Center and got to the Kennedy Space Center at closing,. But didn’t care enough to stay over.

Instead, I made it all the way to St. Augustine and spent the night at Annastasia Island State park.

To see photos from this day, please click on: APRIL 27, 2009

Tuesday, April 28, 2009

Woke up in Anastasia State Park.  Had iced coffee and a fruit smoothie with banana, strawberries and pineapple, from Florida. Dressed in a bathing suit under a dress and walked the beach, stepped in the Atlantic Ocean (dangerous rip tide- no swimming), drove to Fort Matansas.  Walked the Nature Trail and ran into a man on his cell phone.  Oh, dear.

Matansas is Spanish for massacre…which is what happened to the French from Ft. Caroline who tried to attack the Spanish here.

Drove the scenic route back up to St. Augustine and Castillo de San Marcos.  St. Augustine seems like a nice place.  Older buildings, a sense of history.  Bay setting. Lots of tourist ammenities, like horse drawn carriages.

Then the ruins/reconstruction site of Fort Caroline which are part of the Timucuan Preserve, named after the native people who once lived in this area.  They were quite helpful to the French when they settled in the area.  They were 6 1/2-7 feet tall, healthy and gorgeous.  They were almost completely wiped out by European diseases and the remainder finally left with the Spanish when the British drove them out of Florida. Also visited the Kingsley Plantation, a cotton plantation only accessiblee by water until the ’20′s and run by slaves owned by an African woman (ex-slave married to a white man). Under the Spanish she had no problem being the owner, but after US took over, free-blacks were oppressed, with limitations on legal rights to the point that the family moved to Haiti which was run by free blacks.  Final scenic drive north to the Georgia border.  Exit #1, visitor center closed, RV park nearby.  Small lake, birds, sat with salad and a glass of wine.  Laundry.  Internet.

To see photos of this day, please click: April 28, 2009

Wednesday, April 29, 2009

Did some household chores and reviewed my plans for Georgia at the visitor center.  Headed for the ferry to Cumberland Island National Seashore.  The visitor center is at Historic St. Mary’s, then a 45 minute ride across the river to the barrier island.

The ruins of the old Carnegie mansion – raised 9 children here in a totally self-sufficient life (staff of 300).

Hiked, sat on the beach, ate a picnic lunch, sat in a rocker on the visitor center front porch while I waited for the return ferry.

Drove to Fort Fredrika, ruins are all that’s left. 

Drove the scenic highway to Savannah.  The van started shimmying at top speed – need to check it out.

Pulled into a state park.  81 degrees at 6pm. Found a wooded spot.  Planned tomorrow’s route and charted all the state parks that I’ll find on my way.

For photos from this day, please press: April 29, 2009

Thursday, April 30, 2009

There was a wifi hot zone at the ranger’s office, so I looked up wheel alignment shops in Savannah.  They said the tires were shot and wearing unevenly.  Can’t wait for my May 20th tune-up.  Went to Goodyear and got tires and then to a commercial place to install them.  Lost most of the day.

Visited Fort Pulaski on the outskirts of Savannah before driving towards my next stop.  Drove late into the night and stopped off at Walmart’s in Macon, Georgia. 

To see photos from this day, please click on: April 30, 2009

 Friday, May 1, 2009

Ocmulgee National Monument:  The Mississipians established a community on this site between 900 and 1200.  They created earthworks/mounds for ceremonies/burials/building foundations (somewhat like the Mayans). They were pretty much wiped out by European diseases with the arrival of DeSoto’s expeditions. All that’s left are the mounds, one burial and an earth lodge.

Andersonville: More than 45,000 Union prisoners spent their captivity here in 1864 and 1865.  12,920 prisoners died here as the numbers of inmates became impossible for the Confederate management to feed and house. Also on the site is the National Prisoner of War Museum paying tribute to POWs from the Revolution War up to Iraq.

Jimmy Carter National Historic Site: Plains High School serves as the visitor center and has a good video of his life and career.  There are lots of photos of him and Rosalyn growing up here. President Carter actually still teaches Sunday school here when he is in town.  In town, I stopped off at a peanut store and had peanut icecream and tried the hot boiled peanuts, too.

In the countryside, there was pecan orchards on one side  of the road, peaches on the other, and then there would be a grove of Pine.

Spent the night at the campground of FDRoosevelt State Park near Warm Springs, the area where FDR went for his therapy and treatment for his polio and had what they called the “Summer White House”. Scenic.

 To see photos from this day, please click on: May 1, 2009 

Saturday, May 2, 2009

Martin  Luther King, Jr. National Historic Site: This is Sweet Auburn, the African-American neighborhood where MLK was born and lived until he was 12 years old.  His sister has dictated the decorating of their original home. This is also the site of the Ebanezer Baptist Church where is Grandfather and Father preached before him.  When his attention was needed in the Civil Rights movement, he became co-pastor with his Father of the church, giving him more time to devote to the cause. This is also where both he and Coretta are entombed. The Center has some wonderful exhibits illustrated with videos.  As I was viewing one, I bumped into a Realtor friend from Berkeley, in the area on an Elder Hostel trip.  Small world.

Kennesaw Military Park: The Confederates held off Sherman for some time at this site, hoping to prevent the taking of Atlanta.  But eventually the Union succeeded.

Spent the night in the James “Sloppy” Floyd State Park

To see photos from this day, please click on: May 2, 2009

Sunday, May 3, 2009

Chickamauga and Chattanooga National Military Park:  I visited the Chickamauga (Georgia) site today. Here the Confederates did prevent a Union advance, although 34,000 men became casualties.  Good video.

Drove through the Chattahoochee National Forest. Very mountainous. Drove through the rain, playing Vivaldi on the radio.  Times like these, Sirius radio is a life-saver.

The whole northwestern part of Georgia is very scenic.  Many of the best spots are taken by State Parks, so I’m catching those sights in my overnight stays in State Parks.  Tonight I stayed in Mocassin State Park.

To see photos from this day, please click on: May 3, 2009

Monday, May 4, 2009

Another rainy day. Came down out of the mountains by way of the town of Helen.  I wasn’t expecting a Swiss/German recreation.  Heidi Hotel, etc.  I stopped for a caffe latte and a Funnel Cake…decadent. Did not stop in other towns for either the Laurel and Hardy Museum or the Uncle Remus Museum. Noticed a sign advertising, “Rent a Red-neck”.

Augusta Canal National Heritage Area: The only southern industrial canal that’s still intact and in continuous use…except they just drained it and they won’t be taking boats out on it for tours until Friday.  So, off I go.

Drove across the border to South Carolina.  Just missed the visitor center, but luckily they kept a supply of maps outside the door. Found a notation for Hickory Knob State Park on the way to my first destination tomorrow and arrived just before sunset to find a golfing resort!  There were campgrounds, too, but  what an elegant place!  Still cost me only $23 and I had a lovely place on a lake to sit with my glass of wine. And I was almost alone in the park.

To see photos from this day, please click on: May 4, 2009

Tuesday, May 5, 2009

Drove the Savannah River Scenic Highway, but had to take a side road to get a glimpse of the river. It’s big.  Spotted a Realtor sign for “Bubba Harvis, REMax”

Ninety Six National Historic Site:  So named for being 96 miles from the Cherokee trading village of Keowee. Fort was the site of the first Revolutionary War battle south of New England.  Later they had the longest seige (outside of a city) of the Revolution. Nice battlefield walk through some reconstructions. Traces of the original traders foot path remain.

I should have taken more photos of houses I passed by, but often it’s impossible to stop on the roadway.  Caught one nice brick one.

Spent the night in an RV Park in Spartanburg.

To see photos from this day, please click on: May 5, 2009

Wednesday, May 6

Visited Cowpens National Battlefield and the Congaree National Park, a swamp-like forest terrain.  Lots of walking trails and waterways, but no driving routes.  Could have spent days exploring, but there were no campgrounds for me to stay in.
Took the scenic drive north to visit the Kings Mountain National Military Park.  Had to actually drive into North Carolina to find the road back down to reach it.
This is the location of the battle where the local American militia, the Overmountain men, first joined in a Revolutionary War battle and where Cornwallis lost his left wing and was forced to retreat south. It was also the last battle where the Scottish royalists charged only with their broad swords.
While I was there, I heard that there had been a tornado tear through Ninety Six (where I was yesterday!) Yikes, it’s tornado season right where I’m traveling!
Made it to Givhan’s Ferry State Park in Ridgeville for the night.

To see photos from this day, please click on: May 6, 2009

Thursday, May 7

Drove to view Fort Sumpter, where the Civil War began.  Noticing the beginning of blooming Magnolias!  As I drove, I thought I was seeing “road kill” but it was a stretch littered with shredded automobile tire blowouts.  I began to think that what someone should invent would be a use for recycled tire rubber.  They’d make a fortune and the world would be a lot cleaner.
Headed for the Charles Pinckney National Historic Site. 
Mosquitoes at my camp site.  I had heard that dryer sheets are good for keeping away mosquitoes, so here I am with dryer sheets tucked under my shoulder straps, tied around my ankles, and rubbed all over exposed parts of my skin.  Actually seems to help.

To see photos from this day, please click on: May 7, 2009

Friday, May 8

Visited yet another military site at Moore’s Creek.  Amazing co-incidence, but they had a walking path that was made of recycled rubber tires.  I’m thrilled.
Headed for Cape Lookout National Seashore, and arrived on Harker’s Island, but was too late to catch the last ferry out to the lighthouse.  Took a nice nature walk and saw Herons and Ibis nesting.  The only RV Park now only takes seasonal guests, no more overnighters.  One man has set up electrical outlets in the middle of his field.  That’s where I spent the night.  Morning sponge bath in the van.

To see photos from this day, please click on: May 8, 2009

Saturday, May 9

Really windy this morning.  The Ferry to Cape Lookout was cancelled.  Grrr.
Drove quickly to Cedar Island where I had an afternoon appointment on their ferry out to Ocracoke where there is another light house.  Got on the waiting list for the morning ferry and just made it on.  Lovely 2.5 hour trip.
Next was the free 40 minute ferry to Cape hatteras and a third lighthouse.  On the ferry boat, there was a man who was using crutches to get around. I got to talking with his wife and found out that he had been in an accident on his bicycle and was a quadriplegic.  They had planned on traveling like I am, but the accident changed everything. 
The final light house at Bodie Island Light Station.
Spent the night at a lovely RV park called the Refuge at Roanoke Island.  Did laundry.  Got to talking with the woman who manages the place and she said that she had also planned on spending retirement traveling until her husband had a stroke and his ill health limited their mobility.  Both the stories make me thankful that I’m doing this trip while I have  my health.  I’m very lucky.

To see photos from this day, please click on:  May 9, 2009

Sunday, May 10

How nice to finally be all dried out with clean clothes, fresh sheets on the bed, hair freshly shampooed, van swept out, counters cleaned and a warm sunshine-y day to drive in.
First stop right here on Roanoke Island at Fort Raleigh National Historic Site — the mystery of the Lost Colony and the birth place of the first English child in America, Vierginia Dare.  In the summer thre is a regular reinactment nightly at the outdoor theater nearby.
Next the Wright Brothers National Memorial.  You can see why they choose this area to fly — the winds are terrific.  On the beaches I passed were huge kites being flown and signs for hang gliding lessons.  I guess in this wind they can take off from atop a sand dune!  Very good and comprehensive film about the brothers at the site.  They really made a lot of discoveries and were brilliant scientists who devoted their lives to this project.
Next stop Greenboro, way on the western side of the state.  As I leave the outerbanks, near Stumpy Point, N.C., I notice a sign saying, “Unlawful to feed bears along highway”??? Then later a sign:  Welcome to Martin, Stock Car Racing Capital of Eastern North Carolina.
Long drive to Greensboro.

To see photos from this day, please click on: May 10, 2009

Monday, May 11

At the RV Park this morning, met Lynn, the owner of a very big cat and a cockatoo named, Peaches.  She introduced me to the resident cats at the park. Their pregnant mother was abandoned there and they have been fed, tamed, fixed and kept healthy by a series of park guests. Her boyfriend is in aerodynamics and they recently relocated from Pennsylvania.  Rather than buying a home, they decided to buy a motorhome to live in until they were sure the job was going to last.  It turns out he has been offered a job in Seattle, so they will be able to drive their “home” there.  Another new way that motor homes are being used.
First stop Guilford Court House, a Revolutionary War site where Cornwallis’ British troops won the battle but lost almost a quarter of their men doing it.  It wass the battle that turned the tide of Britain’s support for this war, far away from home.  They have both a reinactment video and one that diagrams the troop placements throughout the battle.  How embarassing for the descendents to hear that the local militia instead of firing their 3 shots and then retreating, fired once, panicked and fled the field.
Then I headed for the northwest corner of the state and crossed intoo a bit of Virginia to catch the northern most end of the North Carolina section of the Blueridge parkway.  On the way, I passed Pilot Mountain, suddenly jutting up into the sky.  The name Mt. Airy sounded familiar and then I found I was on Andy Griffith Parkway.  Mayberry was based on this town!  They have both an Aunt Bee’s Restaurant and a Mayberry Motel.
Fog and drizzle is not the optimum way to travel this route full of “scenic outlooks” every few miles.  Couldn’t see but a few feet ahead of me on the road at some points.
But, there was dogwood, which now always makes me smile.  After a couple of road closures and detours (I’m wondering if it was due to the fog), I realized that I wasn’t going to reach any of the Visitor’s Centers before 5pm closing time, so I decided to pull of the Parkway at Blowing Rock where I found Buffalo Camp RV Park.  It’s all hilly and windy, up and down terrain, with lots of large trailers permanently nestled in nooks and crannies–but, as best I can tell, all empty.  I think I’m the only soul in the place–guess it’s still too early in the season–or maybe they only come on weekends.
It’s really cold tonight.  Wearing socks to bed and only one window barely cracked.  Brrr.  Thank goodness for the comforter.  I’m cosy and warm in bed.

To see photos from this day, please click on: May 11, 2009

 May 12, 2009

As I drove out of the campground, I looked for the garbage cans. and finally thought I had spotted one by the office,  where a woman was tending a garden.  I greeted her and dropped off my garbage bag.  As I turned to leave, I suddenly realized that this was not the office, but a residence…oops.  Turned out to be Harriet Fulton, a very friendly local artist, who invited me in and with whom I had a lovely visit before I finally drove off. When I dropped my garbage in her can, she guessed that I must think it was for the public and got a kick out of it.   She had made quite a homey set up there in the woods and her walls were full of her paintings.  I never know what interesting person I will next cross paths with. 

So, back to the Blue Ridge Parkway and the Sun is Out! Stopped at the historic Cone Manor House, perched on a hillside with incredible views.  Saw the Linn Cove Viaduct.  Great film at the Destination Center. Took a side trip to the Carl Sanborn Home Historic Site.  It was left just as it was when he died, modestly furnished, full of zillions of his books and still populated with descendents of the goats his wife raised. Unfortunately, as I backed out of my parking place, the car directly behind me had begun the same thing a couple of minutes earlier and I hit her back side panel.  It was barely a touch, but  quite a dent resulted.  First van misshap, but quite depressing.

Found a campground on the Cherokee reservation, just outside the Parkway.

To see photos from this day, please click on: May 12, 2009

May 13, 2009

The Blueridge Parkway leads into the Smokey Mountain National Park.  Took a hike way up to a mountain top, but the view was mostly of trees that are being destroyed by the beetles in this area.  Most campgrounds I go to have signs posted about not bringing in outside firewood.  They are having serious problems with infestations.

The roadways are lined with rhododendren bushes full of buds, but not blooming yet.  At the south end of the park lies Cades Cove, where there once was a settlement before the Park took over ownership of the land, and where now, the black bears roam.  Saw lots of deer and 7 bears!  At a distance,  but still thrilling.

Made it to Townsend, Tennessee and Mountaineer Campground for the night.

To see photos from this day, please click on:  May 13, 2009

May 14, 2009

Back to the land of the quotable church marquees: Exposure to the Son will prevent burning;  Life is fragile, handle with prayer; Forecast: God reigns, his Son shines. 

Passed through Pigeon Forge.  Saw 4 pancake houses in one block, , multiple miniature golf sites, roller coasters.  I wondered what on earth was going on…and then I saw the huge sign:  Dollywood!  My goodness.

Beautiful countryside along  hiway 321. Stopped at Carver’s Apple House for a single serving ”fried apple pie” and a home-made woven basket.

Couldn’t resist taking a quick photo of a group of “good old boys” standing on the sidewalk out in front of  a store.

Here the Peonies and Dogwood grow like wild flowers. Clumps along roadsides, edging trees or driveways.  Iris are also blooming.  All my favorite flowers!

Stopped at the Andrew Johnson Natl Historic Site.  He was President after Lincoln was assassinated.  Good film.

Noticed a barn with a patchwork quilty piece painted on it.  I’ve seen them before.  Some kind of web site, didn’t catch the full address.

To see photos from this day, please click on:  May 14, 2009

May 15, 2009

 

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